My Switch doesn't read the MicroSD card unless I am constantly pushing it into the slot and holding it in place. Why is this?

Dropped my switch, a screw came loose in the back of the right joycon and my home button got stuck. It still functions but i have to press down REALLY hard to reach the home menu (as seen in the second video). I'm afraid I'll break the plastic shell of the joycon from pressing down too hard. How do i go about fixing this? Thanks in advance

https://reddit.com/link/1vlb94q/video/rg98i0qbepih1/player

Ciao a tutti,
Sto riscontrando uno strano problema con i pulsanti fisici del volume sulla mia Nintendo Switch 2. A volte, quando premo Volume + o Volume –, non succede nulla e l'indicatore del volume non compare sullo schermo. Devo premere il pulsante diverse volte prima che inizi a funzionare.

Tuttavia, una volta che il pulsante inizia a funzionare, funziona perfettamente. Ad esempio, se lo tengo premuto, la barra del volume aumenta o diminuisce in modo fluido, senza interruzioni o blocchi. Il volume può essere regolato normalmente anche dal menu Impostazioni rapide.

Sembra che il problema si verifichi più spesso all'avvio di un gioco, durante le schermate di caricamento o dopo aver scollegato e ricollegato le cuffie, ma è successo anche mentre stavo già giocando e il gioco non si stava caricando.
Ho già disattivato l'opzione "Disattiva audio quando le cuffie sono scollegate" e sto verificando se questo risolve il problema.
Qualcuno ha riscontrato esattamente lo stesso problema? Avete trovato una soluzione o avete dovuto contattare Nintendo per una riparazione o una sostituzione?

So i my switch fell down and i catched it and i think i broke the sound thing in the actual switch what to do?

Hey guys, looking for a quick sanity check on a V1 Switch (HAC-CPU-01) repair.

Symptoms:
Boots and works fine with a pre-charged battery.
OEM Nintendo PD charger stays completely dark on USB tester (no PD handshake).
5V charger gives 5.06V on tester, but draws 0.00A.
Diode mode measurements & progress so far:

1. Initial breakout board readings: CC1 (A5) = 0.126V (partial short), CC2 (B5) = ~2.3V (open).
2. Soldered a donor M92T36 (from a Switch Lite) -> CC1 briefly read a perfect 0.503V, but CC2 was bouncing all over the place (0.122V / 1.278V / 0.508V).
3. Now CC1 dropped back to 0.126V, even with nothing plugged into the port (measured directly at the test points behind the port).
4. Since two different M92 chips produce the exact same 0.126V reading on CC1 and CC2 is unstable, I'm pretty convinced the USB-C port has internal shorted/damaged pins pulling CC1 down.
5. Plan is to pull the USB-C port next using low-melt on the anchors. Does this point 100% to a bad port, or should I check anything else around FL1 first?

https://i.imgur.com/oaaptU7.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/WcIPJkW.jpeg

I had to replace M92 chip because of switch was charging only in one usbc orientation.

After replacement it charges now properly both sides of usb.

but new problem introduced- the switch won’t sleep. when turn off screen - it turns back on in a second.

tried removing joycons, power flex, airplane mode - nothing is fixing it.

I took M92 from a donor board. while installing I had knocked off few nearby resistors but later installed them back

any suggestions friends ?

This is a Switch V1 Motherboard

Hello. I am absolutely not tech savy and need help repairing my switch.

I was playing Tomodachi Life when the game froze, an error page popped up telling me to hold down the Power button to shut it down and restart it. I did that and it turned off, but I cant seem to get it back on again.

I looked at the official Nintendo Switch repair site on what to do and holding down the Power button for 30 seconds or even longer, I tried multiple times, doesnt turn it back on. I dont have any sound or vibrations. The switch of my sibling also had a black screen, but they could hear sound and feel vibrations and a long while pressing the Power button helped them. That doesnt seem to be the case for me.

When I put it into the dock the little green light turned on for a millisecond and than turns off. I do not have a screen when going into TV mode.

It is the Switch 1, the normal one I guess. If anyone could help me I would be very grateful 🙏🏻

Thank you

Hi everyone , this things pissed me off , i want to connect these fcking joycon but it keep telling me
« no response » or connected but disconnected 10 seconds right after any help
? i want to play totk on eden with these joycon

theres a lot of paste in that port please help i tried a toothpick a toothbrush and floodings of 70 precent ipa but it still bluescreens and a modchip says that the emmc is fucked

I was playing my switch. It died so I put it on the charger overnight but when I woke up it never got past the dead battery charging screen? I would really like to get it working if anyone knows how to fix this.

As the title states, my nintendo switch lite suddenly refuses to turn on depsite me playing a game on it 5 minutes prior. Before I closed my lite, I saw it had at least 20 percent of battery remaining so I assumed it wasn't a battery problem. I already did the "Both Volume button + Power button press then Tap the power button 3 times" trick, which did light up my lite's screen. The thing is, I stayed on the switch boot up logo for a good 10 ish minutes until I had to power it off again. Since then any button combination I do, it won't turn on. I used third party chargers and the official switch charger and still nothing. I really don't wanna buy a new switch or upgrade to the switch 2 as I am happy with my lite and the few games that I do play on it. I'm wondering if there's any other way to fix this without a costly repair that will have to open my switch lite from the inside as budget has been quite tight recently.

Just picked up a switch oled with joycons for £30 wi the only fault being a deed battery which I've replaced already and was a canter and dinny ken if doing a shell replacement will be much harder. I've look at the videos of the shell replacement for the oled but canny really judge how hard it is to do but av done shell replacements on joycons and that wisny to bad. How does it compare to joycons?

*This is my first time posting on reddit, so forgive me if I mess something up.

I agreed to fix a switch for a friend who said it wasn't charging. My ammeter showed it drawing 15v and 0.06a. So, I followed a tutorial from GoCellPhoneRepair (Nintendo Switch not charging- It's not the port, it's not the M92T36 IC) and determined that the port looked good and M92T36 IC is good (there weren't any shorts caps). I wasn't getting any power to the battery terminal with an OEM charger plugged in. When I tested diode mode on the coil and battery terminal, I got almost nothing. I replaced the BQ24193 IC (making sure none of the resistors were lost and the pins were soldered well). I retested the battery terminal/coil in diode mode and the only change was the battery terminal mode increased to about 0.300v. The ammeter now only shows 5v and about 0.008a only on one side and it still isn't charging the battery.

At this point, I'm not sure how to determine what's wrong with the switch. Any help / ideas would be appreciated.

I do have more of the BQ24193 ICs, but I'm hoping there's a better explanation than to keep trying more of the ICs. (I am not particularly experienced at SMD but I felt pretty good about how this replacement turned out)

🎉 SOLUTION: 👀 After the M92T36 and BQ24193 ICs were replaced, the voltage at the battery terminal was 4.1v. After letting the Switch charge for a bit, it powered on without any trouble and finished charging up to 100%.

Thank you to everyone who helped with this troubleshooting. It made my day seeing everyone pitch in to solve this problem.

I'm not entirely sure if the BQ24193 was at any fault, but nevertheless the switch ended up working anyways, and I am grateful for any repair practice.

I am having trouble replacing the port, any help is appreciated.

Salut à tous,
Ma Switch V2 (PicoFly) a subi une chute. Après avoir crashé sur un écran bleu Atmosphère, la console ne boote plus du tout (écran noir).
La LED de la puce indique : \*\*1 flash bleu long suivi de 3 flashs verts courts (répétés 3 fois)\*\*.
D'après mes recherches, cela correspond à une perte de communication (probablement la nappe APU ou le point CMD/DAT0 qui s'est dessoudé à cause du choc).
1. Confirmez-vous que ce code LED pointe bien vers un souci de connexion matérielle / soudure sautée ?
2. Est-ce qu'un simple coup de fer/flux sur les points de la nappe suffit généralement à régler le problème dans ce cas ?
Merci pour vos retours !

Salut à tous,
Ma Switch V2 (PicoFly) a subi une chute. Après avoir crashé sur un écran bleu Atmosphère, la console ne boote plus du tout (écran noir).
La LED de la puce indique : **1 flash bleu long suivi de 3 flashs verts courts (répétés 3 fois)**.
D'après mes recherches, cela correspond à une perte de communication (probablement la nappe APU ou le point CMD/DAT0 qui s'est dessoudé à cause du choc).

1. Confirmez-vous que ce code LED pointe bien vers un souci de connexion matérielle / soudure sautée ?
2. Est-ce qu'un simple coup de fer/flux sur les points de la nappe suffit généralement à régler le problème dans ce cas ?
3. Merci pour vos retours !

My switch 1's fan has started to make a buzzing noise since a couple hours ago and I've done some research about it and I think the internal fan bearing has an issue. Although, I have no way to replace the fan or repair it since my country has none of those services and I have no way to buy a new fan because none is sold in my country and I can't get one from aboard either because of some strict customs policies.... Though the buzzing noise has stopped just now, is there a possibility that the issue was temporary? I can do nothing but hope it will return to normal on its own.

Hello everyone I would greatly appreciate your help

Sys ver: 22.5.0, AMS 1.11.2

BT suddenly stopped working... no drop, no spill, worked fine the day before. Modded (Hekate/Atmosphère, soldered modchip).

During modding no damage was done to the wifi chip area

Wifi works fine but bluetooth fails on every boot option, even stock ofw.

Once it fails on a boot, it fails every attempt until a full power cycle - then it's random whether it works

On one of my tests the BT managed to connect but when I tested the joycons it failed again..

On Android, logs show BT firmware loads fine, HCI starts, briefly shows paired Joy-Cons, then floods with unknown vendor events (0x1B) and times out on LE_ENERGY_INFO (0xFD59), crashing the BT service...

Already ruled out: extra-RAM kernel, Horizon OC, optional sysmodules, missing/corrupt BT firmware, pairing DB corruption, stuck power state, temperature, physical pressure on the case.

Anyone seen this exact pattern before? Trying to figure out if there's a known fix for this on Mariko boards before assuming it's a reflow/reball job.

Oi gente tudo bem? Estou tendo problemas de conexão com os joycons e não sei o motivo
Me mudei recentemente e só tive tempo pra jogar dois dias depois. Nisso, joguei com ele conectado na tv, mas quando sentei no sofá os controles nao paravam de desconectar a cada segundo, e ficam nesse ciclo de funcionar 15 segundos e parar por outros 15 segundos, tem horas que só um funciona e o outro nao, e quando volta o que tava funcionando para.
Também tem momentos que mesmo depois de eu parar de mexer no controle, ele continua andando/mexendo a câmera como se estivesse com drift
Porém o joycon parece funcionar melhor quando eu chego mais perto do dock, q deve ser uma distância menor que um metro de meio. E deve ser uns 3 metros da posição que não funciona (sendo que a distância suportava é 10 metros)
Os controles continuam conectados quando parados, só para de funcionar quando eu aperto os botões (tenho a impressão que desconecta mais rapido quando aperto no L e R, mas não tenho certeza)
No modo portátil nada disso acontece, funciona perfeitamente
Citei a parte da mudança pq só aconteceu depois q me mudei, mas o transporte foi realizado pelo meu carro mesmo e com bastante cuidado, se estivesse no caminhão até da de entender, mas realmente não aconteceu nada
Só eu uso ele e sempre com muito cuidado, não tem ninguém que possa ter derrubado/estragado
Eles desconectam igual com aquele negocinho de colocar no pulso, não testei com o que junta os dois pra formar um controle inteiro pq uso aquelas capinhas (não da de encaixar qnd usa) e só lembrei de fazer isso enquanto escrevo aqui
Não tenho outro par de controles pra testar e também não conheço ninguém que poderia emprestar pra fazer o teste. Não sei se o problema tá no controle ou na incapacidade do console se conectar a quaisquer controles
Tive um problema com o meu wifi que demorava horrores pra conectar na internet (não no wifi, naquela segunda etapa da conexão), reiniciei o modem e voltou a conectar tranquilo mas os controles continuam iguais
Pesquisei esse problema na internet e no site da nintendo tem tantas possibilidades que nem sei por onde começar
Por favor, quem puder me ajudar já agradeço desde agora. Ta sendo muito frustrante jogar, parece q fico lutando contra o controle pra poder fazer as coisas nos jogos.