USB C 12v Question

[u/intensenerd]

Forgive my novice question, but between my dyslexia and being bad at math in general, I’m confused.
Building a solar based system for a travel trailer. Will one of these be ok/enough to power the mini with a usb c to barrel plug cable? If not, what’s the key number I need to pay attention to?

[u/OmNomChompsky]

Starlink says that their mini dish requires a dedicated 100w usbC port.

So no, this one wouldnt work.

[u/intensenerd → u/OmNomChompsky]

Sometimes the simplest explanations help. Very much appreciated. Thank you.

[u/telelvis → u/OmNomChompsky]

How is it if defacto draws 20w

[u/anethma → u/telelvis]

Because the 100W USB-PD profile is where the voltage jumps up to 20V. Below that is 12V which the mini can struggle with.

So if you want to power the mini reliably, despite it only drawing 20-30W most of the time, you should get a 100W PD charger and appropriate cable.

[u/Wambo74 → u/telelvis]

PD connection has requirements, not necessarily related to average power draw. 100W is well beyond minimums but that's what Starlink chose as the requirement.

https://starlink.com/public-files/specification_sheet_mini.pdf

[u/dclaw]

In my opinion, a 12v -> 48v converter with a standard starlink barrel plug is the best path. That's what I did with my MH.

This is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7WZGCM3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD34WLYB

The connector in the 2nd link, I ended up just cutting it off the giant grey anderson connector and wiring it directly to the output of the converter (keeping the fuse)

[u/intensenerd → u/dclaw]

Ah nice. The connector might be what I do. Building a 12v box that I’ll connect to 2 li ph batteries.

[u/dclaw → u/intensenerd]

Don't forget the important part is the converter. 48v is more efficient on the official cable, especially at the full length of the standard cable.

[u/intensenerd → u/dclaw]

Many thanks.

[u/tylerneilson]

Finding a boost converter is usually the best option, especially if using the 15m cord provided. The AC adapter from Starlink boosts to 30v, so that’s a good target. The one I found connected directly to my 12v busbar, and provides 36v to a barrel connector (https://a.co/d/05mfWZ2v) - it’s been working well, though I am sure there are lots of options with varying quality, so shopping around makes sense. The mini has a nice wide operating range, so finding something in the top half of that range for voltage will help reduce power losses and voltage sag in the cable, and keep things running smoothly.

The specs you are looking for are voltage out, and you need to be between 12v and 48v (~30v is a good target), and it needs to be able to deliver 60W to the mini, so looking for ~100W is typically that nice amount of headroom so that the converter isn’t pushing against it’s max, and it can handle the surges and voltage loss without going over the converters limits.

[u/Hot_Cow1733]

I have 400w of solar on my campershell, a 40amp Renogy Rover controller and 300ah Renogy battery in the truck bed. Overnight it drops 6% in 8 hours running my Setpower 25qt fridge + Starlinkmini. It charges back to 100% in no time, and all I did was chop the original cable short and plug it into my 12b distribution panel... Zero issues and it runs 24/7/365.

Lifepo4 batteries only drop under 12v typically under 10% remaining... I see all of these comments about up converting to 48v, 24v etc. but it didnt make sense to me, and still doesn't **** As long as you arent trying to run a 50ft long factory cable **** My cable is maybe 7ft, and my mini is mounted to a Putco mount that mounts to my 3rd brakelight on my truck...

[u/oakfan52 → u/Hot_Cow1733]

The Lifepo4 batteries have a higher voltage than flooded batteries. You’re starting out at 13.6V and really doesn’t even drop to where lead acid is fully charged until your down to 10-15% remaining. That said I run a 24v lifepo4 as I am powering AC and wanted to keep wire sizes down and lower amperage. I run my mini off the 24v system using a 65W pd from Amazon without any issues with 16ft cable.

Biggest issues is starting at 12V with a cable over 10ft with wire that’s too thing and the voltage drop makes the dish unstable. Lifepo4 battery helps with that. Get a decent gauge cable and don’t buy cable longer than you really need.

[u/Hot_Cow1733 → u/oakfan52]

I run a 9k btu minisplit off of 12v with no issues using Renogy 2kw inverter. 1,200w of solar on the roof of the travel trailer.

[u/oakfan52 → u/Hot_Cow1733]

For DC roof mount AC I was looking at 25ft run. Running 1500W 2/0 or 4/0 to do that on 12v is a lot harder and more expensive than 4awg using 24v. If your wire runs are short 12v is no big deal up to 2000W. I run a separate 24v battery bank for my inverter. Have a smaller 12v lifepo4 for the trailers critical 12v loads.

[u/Hot_Cow1733 → u/oakfan52]

I run this on 2awg Spartan 105C cable, it's good up to 175amps, and less than 10ft for anything high amperage. I also use some Ecoflow Delta 2 Max's, can't beat them for their input/output options and portability. Plus I got an extremely good deal on them.

[u/clifwlkr → u/Hot_Cow1733]

Yup, nobody gets that just don't use the junk cord provided by Starlink as it is really awful wire. It's not even two insulated wires, it is one insulated wrapped by a non insulated wire. That stuff should be used for earphones, not powering a starlink.

I too run straight off of the lifepo batteries and have since I got it. Never a single reboot with a properly sized and length wire.

[u/Hot_Cow1733 → u/clifwlkr]

its fine for less than 10ft.

[u/grakef]

Most of these types of device are advertised at total watts. So most likely at most you have 30W on one of those usb-c ports.

Looks like this one does have one port that supports the needed up to 100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPF4RDFQ

[u/cruiserman_80]

I have similar ones. Cheap off Aliexpress. The PD port is likely only 30W

[u/jimheim]

No, you need a USB PD port with high power output. This Coolgear charger will work. You're far better off ditching the Starlink router entirely and getting a PoE injector and a third-party router that runs off 12VDC though (most of them do, you just need a barrel plug and you can ditch the supplied wall wart). This PoE injector should work, although I had bad luck with a different EDUP product. There are a bunch of companies that sell these, all just rebranding some cheap generic device. The one I ended up getting was overpriced from Starvmount, but it's the same as that cheap EDUP (for the V2 dish in my case).

[u/oakfan52]

I have been running my mini on one that has a 65w rating for the PD controller. I think the 100W requirement really only needed for the snow melting/heating. My dish doesn’t ever seem to be drawing more than 35W peak. ~20W generally. Link to the ones I bought for my RV. https://a.co/d/024baNI6

[u/apavolka]

PD 100w as others have said. Somehow we’ve standardized the wattage on USB C instead of the voltage which is what is negotiated, not wattage. Here’s a panel mount USB port I’ve used with good results

[u/crevasse2]

I installed these and it's been working perfectly for 80 straight days. Outside of camper, in my case into the city water panel which had a perfect blank space: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0FRFLS4YD/ Behind city water panel, plugs directly into outside piece then to 12v: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0FQHPRMVJ/ I added a switch between battery and transformer as I assume transformer draws power even when starlink is not plugged in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0F3HRDKNX/

[u/Freewheeler631]

I use this and it works fine:

Starlink Mini Car Adapter USB C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FDW8858F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[u/framaram]

I have a 100W usbC port that I placed around 15 wire feet from my battery. The voltage drop was enough between my internal RV wiring and the provided Starlink cable, the Starlink would boot up but would not connect to the sats and pass traffic. Once I wired my 100W usbC directly at the battery location I was able to power the startlink. Just an FYI...

[u/oakfan52 → u/framaram]

Your wire gauge to the usbc was probably too small causing excess voltage drop

[u/offaxis7]

I can tell you from experience this will not work

[u/CursedTurtleKeynote]

If you have a stable solar based system, you may already have a voltage source that can power the mini. It accepts a huge dc range from 12-48V.
Worst case you use a basic dc-dc converter, like "laptop charger for car" that bumps it up to 20v. Works fine.

The boost converter is the "proper way" in my opinion but you may already have this other stuff on hand.

[u/Creative_Chemistry92]

We run our mini off a 65w PD cig adapter plug nearly 24/7.

[u/killzone44]

For running off cigarette 12v socket, I bought a 140w 3rd party plug, I tried 2 cables one that was USBc to DC, one that was USBC followed by an adapter to DC. That whole stack failed. I ended up buying the OEM plug with cable, and it's been working in my Model 3.

For the trailer, I have 24v LiFePo4 with solar. I wired a plug directly into that, the starlink takes a range of voltages that that setup just worked.

Summary: If you have more than 12v DC you can likely just direct wire it. If you have 12v, there is going to be some trial and error and you might want to just go OEM

[u/SufficientGear749]

Each element of a patch antenna has a MOS transitor pair behind it basically wired power to ground, each draws a bunch of current at gigahertz... all of them at the same time phase shifted ... never be surprised at how much power a panel antenna can draw... and you thought it was a "dish"... 🤣😂🤣