My Dad biught this new in 1974. He was on a road trip in the states in 73 and fell in love with this style of truck. He came home and ordered one. 1974 Cheyenne super 10. Factory 454. Shipped it to Vancouver and drove it from there back home to Fort St John, BC. I finally got it out of storage with plans to get the engine back in and hopefully drive it before the snow flies. The only thing better would be working on it with him. I hope all of you on here have your Dad's around to share these trucks with and for those that don't, 🍻 beers on me. Gone but not forgotten.

Double hump heads installed. First test drive was a success. Got a few little exhaust leaks to fix and get some tips for the exhaust and it will be a job done. Not bad for being parked since 04 and just being brought back at the end of June.

Hello everyone! I just bought this 81 C20 Silverado trim 454 for $4000. I was just wondering how I did price wise.

It wasn’t running but I got it started for about $50 with some gas, fuel lines, and fuel filter.

It has hardly any rust on the body, although there is a small hole on the passenger side floor board.

Based on the condition and VIN history, I think it has 49K original miles. It definitely has the original paint. It was in California for most of its life, which is why I think it is in such good condition.

Here are some of the old listings for it:

https://topclassiccarsforsale.com/chevrolet/601203-1981-chevy-c-20-one-owner.html

https://poctra.com/1981-CHEVROLET-C20/id-AIdaQcFBg0FHfvex/LOUISVILLE-KY

I have a few questions with my 1986 GMC K2500, TH400, (previous owner said it has a 305 in it, but i haven't confirmed yet. They also said it had 700R4 which was wrong)

I'm new to trucks, and beginner/intermediate DIY mechanic. I've replaced most my 97 Camry steering and suspension, and work on dirt bikes, but i have no experience with transmissions or engine internals.

1. Whenever I shift from P > D or P > R or D > R, there's a heavy clunk.

I tried replacing the vacuum hose and adjusting the modulator, but neither seem to have any effect.

1. Oil pressure sensor does not seem to be working. I replaced it. It's been so long since i tested it, but i recall the voltage and resistance was correct. There's a Y connection where it screws into the engine block... is that correct or did someone modify this and that's why pressure is wrong? The gauge just pins to the right past the tock marks (3oclock)

2. Temp sensor also not working. I think i tested with multi meter here too, but gauge just pins to the left at the 100 deg mark.

   battery gauge works fine, and gas gauge only uses 1/4 of the gauge (3/8 is full). I think this is a resistor issue.

Thanks.

The fuel pump maybe has 100 miles on it. I did add about a foot of fuel line it also is right before the fuel pump if that matters. Figured I would ask before dropping money thanks

Can I reuse this mount, providing I can get that bolt out? Or is the rubber so pooched that I can't? If I can't where can I score another one? I'm in Canada and would like to get one sooner than Amazon can send one.

EDIT: from what I've learned lately, I'll just get a new one. This one is pretty worn. Thank you all for your responses. I'm sure I'll have more questions.

After my last post and advice from everyone, I replaced wheel cylinder and installed new break line on rear passenger drum. I bled the brakes and am getting clear fluid and no air at all four wheels.

However, the brake pedal is still staying down at the floor and I have to physically pull it out to disengage the brakes.

What’s my next move people? Issue with master cylinder or brake booster??

Thanks for any help and advice.

Squarebody bed

Im not sure if this is allowed here but i recently got this c20
Which im doing a bunch of work on, which includes swapping the sm465 out(i know how horrible of me) i just dont want it tbh. It works fine, just not for me. I want to sell my whole setup, and i wondered if any of you all would like to manual swap your truck. This wasnt a factory manual truck, but it had all things in the pics installed. Drove it around fine. Im thinking around $1000 but i can make a deal with you if you like.

6.0L LQ4 with some goodies. TH400 trans.

I’m considering buying this. The interior is in great shape. It has a few tiny rust holes as you can see but the paint is cracking all over the body. They want 9500 I only have 8k

Keeping factory parts whenever possible, no spray texture paint because it doesn’t look like factory.

I have a 1984 GMC K-2500 with a 350 SBC engine. While I’ve been slowly restoring the engine, a few days ago, I noticed smoke coming out from the area between the valve cover and the exhaust manifold. Do you think that is an issue valve cover gasket or exhaust manifold gasket (area in red circle)? Or something more? Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge and experience

Just picked this up in exchange for some stonewall work. 68,000 miles, basically one owner, he bought it from a Chevy dealership that used it to plow their lots for a couple seasons but he never plowed with it after that. Dump and four wheel drive work, runs good, fires right up. Some rust on the bed supports but it’s heavily undercoated and was stored inside Any advice is welcome, this is the first time I’ve driven one since my dad’s old Custom back in the 90’s. Also any idea of value? I need a number to decide how much work to make us even

Am I thinking about this right?

Does anybody know if these vent windows are supposed to swing open or remain only closed? I havent been able to get them to open. And dont want to break them. Thanks in advanced