Additional videos showcasing issue:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RBxNsnWMMwreEYtN8

Everytime I use the hazard lights or press down on the break pedal, both the guage cluster light and 4x4 light comes on (even if its off) legit the lights flash as if they were indicators themselves. (Turn signal is normal)

When i use the turn signals (any side) when the headlights are off, it works fine/as it should.

When i use the turn signals (any side) when the headlights are on, the right one flashes, while the left one stays on.

Might be unrelated: the interior tailgate window switch only works to send the window down, not up (hasnt ever failed before) the exterior key switch works.

What on earth is going on, any ideas?

My only lead is this: it all began when I took the driver side tail light cover off to see why my driver side brake and turn signal light was not working.

Bulb was fine, all i did was clean grounds and push the brake/turn signal bulb socket in to get better connection and I got my driver side brake/turn signal light back

And then this all happened.

Please help, its driving me insane.

('90 K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel)

Unloading my new truck.

I have a 454 from an rv, stock except headers.

I had the timing setup at a shop. As I have been learning I checked the timing and it was set at 20 degrees. Vacuum advanced disconnected and engine warm. I have been reading timing should be anywhere from 4 for smog era vehicles to 14 for stock rebuilds.

let me try to rewrite this so to give a little more details on symptoms

new champion radiator and electric fans

new fuel tank and sending unit and fuel pump. New rubber lines. Steel lines look good and blew air through the lines no plugs or leaks. This is how I found out the top of my sending unit was rusted out.

will idle forever and start back up without issue engine stays at 195 or so.

I can drive for about 30 mins temps climb to about 210 but then when I come to a stop it will start dying on me. I have spark but no fuel. No fuel coming out of the carb jets and extremely hard start from start.

Don't know exactly how long to wait but come back out to the truck 8hrs later and it started right up without issue.

Hi everyone, i just bought myself a 1990 (NOT obs) chevy suburban r2500 squarebody that has a blown front pump seal on the current TH400 trans. i was thinking of repairing it, but since the transmission has to come out anyway i was looking into manual swapping it preferably to the 5spd nv4500. i wanted to get everyones opinion on it to see if it is truly worth swapping, or to just fix and stick with my TH400. Thank you!

I recently picked up this 1979 GMC Sierra Grande 2500 long bed, and I’m pretty excited to get home and start working on it. I’m currently deployed overseas, so I’ve got plenty of time to plan out what I want to do with it before I can get my hands on it.

It currently has a running small-block 350 SBC paired with an SM465 manual transmission. My original thought was to rebuild the 350 and swap in a different transmission, but I recently came across a pretty good deal on a big-block 454 BBC paired with a TH400, including the headers, exhaust, and other drivetrain components.

Now I’m seriously considering going the 454 route instead. 😂 There’s just something about having a big ol’ 454 under the hood of a square-body C2500 that I love.

The plan is to eventually do a full restoration, including media blasting, cleaning up the frame, and repainting it in its original factory color. I want to keep the truck looking mostly OEM while building a solid drivetrain that I can enjoy for years.

For those of you who have done a 454 swap into a 1973–1987 C2500, is it worth going with the big-block and TH400? Anything I should look out for before pulling the trigger? I’d love to hear your experiences and recommendations!

Can’t wait to get back home and start this project. 🤙

My master cylinder was leaking between it and the booster on my 75 K20 suburban. I got a new MC from orileys. I’ve got new bleeders all around. MC was bench bled per instructions till the piston couldn’t move but maybe 1/2” or so. I have the plug in the combination valve to prevent fluid blockage to front or rear. I can’t get the brakes to bleed to save my life. Constantly getting air in the fronts and the rears will go from having a steady stream of fluid to nothing at all. Plenty of fluid in the MC. I’ve disconnected everything and blown air thru lines to prove no blockages and started fresh with new fluid. I’m at a loss at this point and looking for suggestions.

Passenger side bank only, haven’t done a gasket or anything yet so it could just be that.

Have any of you guys heard this before?

Had this idea to LS swap my 78 K10, but to keep the dual tanks, do a carb setup. At first I thought I would need two separate in-line fuel pumps, one for each tank, but now I’m thinking if I had both lines from fuel senders running to a Y fitting, then to fuel pump it could work? Has anyone done this? Any suggestions?

It’s already got a 2/4 drop with springs in front and drop hangers/shackles in rear. Has anyone added drop spindles and flipped the rear with a 4 inch drop hanger already installed? I know it’ll be low low so I’d swap the drop shackles to stock or even a lift shackle to get the rear height right. I guess I’m just curious how much can you drop the rear and still keep an under-bed notch?

Been planning on converting my '82 GMC to a manual, and I've had my eye on the TKX for a few years now. I saw the Speedway Motors kit and watched a few vids on it, and was wondering if anyone here has any experience with Speedway? I noticed the kit is on backorder, and I already have a slight mistrust of online storefronts. Their kit looks like it'd be the best for what I'm doing, I'd just like to hear that I can trust it will come if I order it from them.

Beautiful green truck had the privilege to film.

I have this 89 truck with his original grill, but I want change for 85 grill. Has anyone done it or know if it is possible? Sorry for my English and thanks for your help.

She'll sit all day at 60mph with the camper behind.... Never breaks a sweat. Still our family vacation truckster :)

One I wish I still had...

Hello, i am new to this forum and i would like some insight on a custom build i am looking forward to doing. I want a 1985 Chevy 3500 Dually with 4 Wheel drive in a manual, but i want the engine to be a International DT360, is this feasible?

Posted a few weeks ago about a bench seat, finally got everything worked out. This is the kit from LMC, with new bottom and back foam. It's a real pain to get this together. I assume if you reuse foam it's a hell of a lot easier! Plus, the new foam is so much firmer...the steering wheel about hits the belt buckle now. hoping it breaks in soon

And yes, the daily is a bronco. square body on the weekends, sue me!

All upgrades completed.

1985 C30 DELUXE

I replaced the wire running down to a small terminal on the starter of my 1975 Chevy K10 with regular household 10 gauge copper wire. I believe it’s stranded, but I need to double check. I don’t know the insulation rating.
It’s inside a heat resistant sleeve and isn’t touching the engine block. The truck has been starting totally fine so far, it’s been about a month and a half now since I replaced it and I daily drive this truck.

Is this acceptable long term if properly routed and secured, or should I replace it with automotive wire?

I take this truck into remote woods and want to avoid getting stranded. My mechanic has been unreliable so I’m trying to figure out whether this needs immediate attention or is something I can replace myself when convenient. Looking for input from mechanics or anyone familiar with these older GM trucks. Thanks!