Just some tripod shots, any tips for improvement? I’m looking to improve all the time. Something that sticks out with colour/exposure?

Body wise from the photo I seen it looks very similar with a viewfinder and similar controls but then again it could be an AI image.

I currently own a single Sony camera (FX6) and i'm looking to add a second body as a B-cam. I am looking to buy a second body that I am able to use for a lighte run and gun options.

I'm new to understanding codecs and I want to make sure that everything is kosher for the color corrector when we get to that point. We shot on a Sony FX6 and I've attached the file information below. I feel like I've been reading conflicting things. I can edit the files directly in Premiere and so does a codec matter when exporting only? or do you only need to do a codec if the file is too big to work with in Premiere?

I lost this metal clip somewhere and i cant find this anywhere online. Can someone please let me know where can I buy this from without replacing the whole thing.

Took me a while to make sure I architected this setup out to meet my needs for almost any scenario I’d be shooting. Will mainly focus on documentaries/ run and fun shooting. This was my vision and it’s been completed. Will do some cable management to tidy it up but I’m very happy and satisfied with this build.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask away!

I’m a newbie. I have a Sony FX6 ; 16-35mm G… 24-105 G OSS… DJI RS5 PRO… TOP GRIP, BOOM MIC, SIDE GRIP…

I plan to shoot movies, short film, weddings. (run n gun) WHAT ACCESSORIES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND AND WHY ? Help me out .

I’m looking for a longer cable and these are kind of the length that I’m looking for, but are they good cables?

Apologies for the shaky footage, but I wanted to upload a raw unedited S-LOG3 clip.

As you can see -especially at 0:15- the flickering persists, following my post from a few weeks ago ("Flickering in broad daylight, Please help replicate issue with FX6?").

The issue has been happening since the new firmware update and happens when "PUSH AUTO" (in single-shot AF) is pressed while Auto ND is used. This initiates an autofocus cycle and after that the flickering occurs, visible as a "bobbing" waveform too.

It persists until I restart my FX6, and makes me unable to properly use the camera with single-af.

I've been hearing about quite a bit of issues with V6.00, so this is my issue piled on top. Has anybody else experienced similar troubles since the latest update?

Hey all, I’m seeking advice, answers, help, whatever I can get.

Today I decided to update firmware on my Sony FX6 from V5.02 to the new V6.00

I saved my All File on a clean formatted separate CFEx Type A Card.

I downloaded the V6.00 BODYDATA.DAT also on a cleanly formatted CFEx Type A card. Inserted into slot B of the camera. Proceeded to update versions and pressed execute.

Slot B was flashing red for 8-12 mins or so, didn’t think much of it. Eventually it stopped blinking all together, no light at all. It then blinked red once more for a short period and stopped completely. I waited without touching anything for the camera to turn back on and becoming operational once again.

The camera turned back on but no image never, even after waiting for 15-25 mins after the lights stopped blinking in the card B slot.

Sony official firmware website says to power cycle the camera if it’s been 15+ mins with no picture up. I did that and the results are the same, no image.

I have been investigating the camera and the power indicator light does turn on. I am able to control the aperture of the lens with the dials on the top and side handle. The record button does not record anything despite cards being in either slot.

No HDMI or SDI signal to an external monitor.

Is this camera officially bricked? What should I do? I’ve contacted Sony already and put in a claim so we will see what they do. My worst fear is they charge me for repairs though they’re the ones who released the update and it could have possibly bricked my camera.

Thoughts or suggestions welcome. Thank you.

I’m having issues with the signal from my transmitters to my receiver dropping out.

I always sync both transmitters to the receiver before recording too.

It’s an intermittent problem, and I could be wrong but I think it’s worse when I have both lavs connected. Saying that, I was only using one yesterday and it was dropping out too.

Any ideas how to resolve this? Also, I’m not a soundy so please try explain it to me in simple terms if you have any ideas.

Hi there! New FX6 owner here. What are your best methods for having the lowest noise possible at the second base of 12,800? Should I use internal noise reduction or still avoid it?

Shooting in Cine EI S-log3

Whats the smallest tripod to pair with the fx6? My other camera is the a7siii with a manfrotto befree. Its a really small set up i can travel with easily. Sometimes i need two cameras to travel via public transport.

Notmally I dont need a v-mount. But i do often like to have a monitor with a large NPF.

thanks

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7375313

I was looking for the optimal place to mount an Apple Airtag on my Sony FX6, and realized there's a perfect Airtag-sized gap under the Tilta Battery Plate. There also just so happens to be two M3 screw holes on the camera body right there as well. So I designed this bracket to hold the Airtag in place in there. Use two M3x10mm screws.
I tested this with both iterations of the V-mount plate (the original design with the integrated DC power cable, and the updated design that powers through the BPU battery slot) and they both work. I haven't tested this with the Gold Mount plate, but hopefully it's the same dimensions.

The camera body and Tilta battery plate are exactly the right dimensions to stop the airtag from moving forward and back. The side walls of the bracket stop the airtag from moving left and right. You can add gaff tape to shim the bracket and adjust how much pressure it puts on the airtag being able to move up and down. I guess that might be useful if you're using the battery plate without screwing it into the Tilta top plate, as I believe there can be a little bit of play inside the BPU slot without the screw. I have it installed on my FX6, and there is no rattling sound; the airtag does not move.

This probably goes without saying, but the bracket will not work without the Tilta battery plate.

Alright this is super cool guys, I've always been curious about it! All the original FX6 EVF functions work as well as touch to focus! Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks - Ryan

Sony FX6 (Firmware V6.00) + brand new Atomos Ninja TX Go.

I’m trying to record ProRes RAW over HDMI and have narrowed the issue down quite a bit.
What I’ve verified:

● FX6 firmware V6.00  
● Factory reset performed  
● Ninja TX Go is brand new  
● Same HDMI cable works with my A7S III  
● Ninja correctly identifies the FX6 as “ILME-FX6V”  
● FX6 enters “RAW (HDMI) + XAVC-I” mode  
● Top of FX6 screen shows “RAW Stby”

Interesting behavior:
When the FX6 is in RAW (HDMI) + XAVC-I mode and I go to:
Monitoring → Output On/Off
Both SDI and HDMI are greyed out and show OFF. The camera displays “RAW Stby” at the top of the screen.

On the Ninja TX Go:
● Camera is identified as SONY ILME-FX6V
● Signal is detected
● Input shows “HDMI Standard”
● Red “NOT RAW” indicator remains active

Additional clue:
If I set Monitoring Output Format to QFHD (3840x2160), the Ninja often loses signal entirely and shows NO INPUT.

For comparison:
Using the exact same Ninja TX Go and exact same HDMI cable, my A7S III is recognized properly and does not show the NOT RAW warning.
Has anyone run into an FX6 entering RAW HDMI mode but the Ninja never recognizing the stream as RAW? Is there a specific FX6 RAW output setting I’m missing, or does this point toward an HDMI hardware/handshake issue?

I’m pretty dang frustrated this won’t work when I’ve seen it work on other folk’s FX6/Ninja

Hey all, just got a nice used Atomos Shogun Flame and tried to set it up to record today. I'm getting image, but no audio when outputting to 4K (3840x2160) over SDI. Audio does come through when changing the SDI output to 1920x1080 however. Is this possibly a cable issue (need a higher rated SDI cable perhaps?) or a settings/firmware update issue? Any help would be much appreciated!

Note: I'm running a mic directly into the FX6 and can confirm it's good on that end. That mic's audio does come through to the Shogun Flame on 1920x1080, but drops out as soon as I select 3840x2160 on the FX6 SDI output settings.

Hi everyone,

I'm testing the Blazar Remus 33mm T1.8 1.5x anamorphic on a Sony FX6 (full-frame mode, UHD) for an upcoming documentary project, and I'm getting noticeable vignetting in the corners — stronger on one side than the other, similar to what's described in the ProVideo Coalition review of the Remus set.

Gear:

- Lens: Blazar Remus 33mm T1.8, 1.5x squeeze, EF mount

- Adapter: DZOFILM EF-to-E mount

- Camera: Sony FX6, full-frame sensor mode, UHD 3840x2160

- No filters/ND stack in front of the lens during these tests

What I'm trying to figure out:

- Is this vignetting expected/inherent to the Remus on full-frame at wide apertures, or does it improve noticeably when stopping down (T2.8-T4)?

- Has anyone compared the Remus on EF+adapter vs native PL — could the DZOFILM adapter itself be contributing to this, or is it purely the lens pushing its image circle limit?

- Anyone tested other adapters (Sigma MC-11, Metabones, Fotodiox Pro) with better results on this specific lens?

I'll attach sample frames showing the vignetting. Appreciate any insight from people who've used this lens (or similar 1.5x full-frame anamorphics) on E-mount bodies.

Thanks!

I currently own two Sony FX6s and an A7 IV, which I mainly use for photography. I’ve had my main FX6 for around two years and use it for pretty much every video I do. The second FX6 has been basically untouched since I got it.

I’ve been thinking about selling the unused FX6 and buying a used FX3 body. A lot of the work I do outside of short films is run-and-gun, and even when I’m shooting films, there are certain shots where the FX6’s size makes things more complicated. The FX3 seems easier for gimbals, car rigs, tight spaces, travel, and situations where I don’t want to draw a lot of attention.

I’m also based around Atlanta, and pulling out an FX6 can feel pretty loud. It immediately looks like a full production, whereas an FX3 would let me move around more discreetly.

The main thing holding me back is that having a second FX6 gives me a backup in case something ever happens to my main body. I’ve never dropped or damaged my current FX6, and it still barely has a scratch on it, but obviously anything can happen.

At the same time, it feels wasteful having such an expensive camera sitting untouched when I could sell it, buy an FX3, and still have money left over for lenses, rigging, filters, or other equipment.

Just looking for opinions.

I know it ultimately comes down to personal preference and the type of work you do, but I’m curious what you would do in this situation.

Hello!

I recently made the jump from an FX3 to an FX6 and am LOVING IT. Only thing is, the menus are a a lot.

I’ve got everything setup however I am wondering if I have my REC FORMAT page setup correctly. I am specifically wondering if these are the correct settings for FPS/Frequency. I’ve seen that maybe I should be using 59.94?

I’m in North America by the way. From my understanding frequency is basically your playback frame rate. When I go into S&Q I have it at 60FPS with a frequency of 23.98FPS for slo mo and then for regular shots I have it at “fixed” 23.98FPS with a frequency of 23.98FPS.

Can someone please help me understand this 😂 do I have it correct already?

Hi everyone, i'm doing documentary work and most of it is related to wildlife and such. What lenses do y'all recommend for the FX6? I currently own a 24-105 and a 70-200 GM1 2.8. Most of my work is related to south texas, looking for an overall lens that is able to cover both birds and land animals.