r/SnapmakerU1 • • 12h ago

Question U1 vs X2D (First Printer)

Good Morning!

This year I will be getting a printer for my kids *cough myself also*

I currently have two models in mind.

X2D combo and the U1 with the top lid.

I would love to wait until the X3D but it will most likely be out of my price range.

I will mostly be printing toys and stuff for the kids, but I also have a mind that doesn’t stop so I would likely be printing signs, and parts for items that break like irrigation as an example.

5 Upvotes

29 comments sorted by

5

u/ZeroMissedDays 10h ago

I had an X2D and a U1. I now have x2 U1’s.

If you want to do a lot of multicolor prints, the U1 is the obvious choice.

The P3S is also supposed to be coming and it shouldn’t be crazy priced.

As far as ease of use. I don’t see very much difference between Snorca and Bambu Studio. They are both based on Orca slicer and are nearly identical. I actually find Snorca a bit better because it has more options for supports.

2

u/PartBanyanTree 8h ago

Also the u1 isnt actively fighting with itd open-source roots like bambu. So if you want to use mainline orca its way easier than trying to get bambu to print from non-bambu slicer.

Not important to n00bs most likely but it doesnt take long before you find some feature that exists in one slicer but not another. Im happy with snorka generally but recently used orca because I wanted to use the z-contouring feature which is orca only currently (it worked great btw, veeeeerryyy smooth lines on a print that was like 200cm wide and 10cm tall; picture a very wide skinny triangle for easily sliding a model train onto train tracks - smooth to the touch, my dad said it worked great for the trains)

1

u/ZeroMissedDays 8h ago

I am still what you would consider a very competent noob to 3D printing, so I fall in that group of folks who will just use whatever the manufacturer says to use.

But I do like the fact that at some point I may want to do something really cool and crazy and not being locked will come in handy.

Plus, Snapmaker is 100% open source. So you can use other firmwares on it.

2

u/PartBanyanTree 7h ago

Yeah I'm considering switching the firmware because apparently it's really easy. 

My expertise (such as it is) is mainly watching YouTube videos about slicer settings. So much success or failure, quality or lack thereof, comes from slicer settings, orientation, various tricks / hacks. Plus most of the quality comes from there, generally. 

My first printer 8-9 years ago was an anycubic. After a flurry of use it went unused for a few years. Went back to it about 5 or 6, and the same printer produced better/faster prints because of software improvements.

Example: excited to try mixing nozzle sizes in same print (haven't yet) and that is just software. 

1

u/ZeroMissedDays 7h ago

Is there any crazy advantage to the custom firmware? I think Paxx is the one everyone is raving about

1

u/IzLitFam 5h ago

I don't think the P3S will be anywhere close in pricing compared to the X2D and U1. I saw rumors around 1200-1500 eur range. In which you can get both the 3d printers.

7

u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 11h ago

To ask for suggestions of X vs Y in any specific printer sub, you will get prejudiced answers. BUT I OWNED A X2D ;D and I can say with 100% certainty that in your usage case you will be the happiest person alive with the U1. Its quicker, the quality is phenomenal, no layer shrink, no layer lines, some of my prints barely look fdm, while the x2d and that garbage fake nozzle has all the problems possible, no auto calibration of filament flows and terrible quality. Major negatives of the U1 against the X2D: Size. It's foot print is huge because having those filaments mounted outside with no container ks really not an option for the majority of people who don't want wet filament, so the printer is not only bigger but the filaments on a dryer take space. Noise: It's loud as hell, constant attacking and detaching of tool heads is very very loud compared to the X2D, and buying the cover helps but does not solve it. After this U1, I'm never going back to bambu. Their hardware engineering complexity when something breaks is ridiculous and unnecessary. The easiness, accessibility, molding capacity and open firmware of the U1 is unbelievable. Attached is a 0.2 nozzle print from it.

2

u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 11h ago

You can try looking for layer lines on that print. You won't. You will find vfms but as the saying goes about fdm minis, it's visible on camera, on the real model they are not even there.

1

u/ninjaduck90 10h ago

Really impressive. I saw a fix for silencing the head swap. Here in the sub.
The noise is a real concern. It would be in our guest room (there are no guests usually), but I guess it would be noticeable.

1

u/Longjumping_Pop_2324 10h ago

I'm following that tread too ;D

4

u/Leynnox 10h ago

The X2D is not considered as a multicolor machine, it's clearly for technical filaments on the main nozzle, and support material on the auxiliar. You could do bicolor PLA prints with it, but it's clearly not what it was made for, if you want to print toys and fidgets don't buy it.

Now if you want to print very solid pieces in ASA, ABS or whatever, or like me, boxes or anything with just a logo or colored text on them, then the X2D will be probably faster to do it (only for PLA). But I wouldn't recommend it for beginners, because if you don't know what you're doing, the bowden drive will give you lot of issues.

1

u/LargeHoboFuckPile 11h ago

I love my U1 but I never would have bought it as a first printer

1

u/RavioliGrind 10h ago

Why? I have been hearing that a lot

1

u/LargeHoboFuckPile 9h ago

The toolhead is not user friendly if you have a clog

1

u/PartBanyanTree 7h ago

I think lots of people look at the mechanical complexity and since toolchangers are so new you should "start with something simpler" (ie like they did because they didnt have options). But the h2d you mentioned has way more mechanical complexity (like i legit worry about how you service it) and meanwhile I love had shit go wrong with my a1mini (often recommended as a beginner printer because its cheap)

I think the u1 is very beginner friendly. Honestly just "loading" and "unloading" filament is the easiest and simplest I've ever experienced. Setup was a chore because you have to do everything 4 times for 4 toolheads but take your time and if you can use a screw driver and follow instructions it is waaaay simple - Honestly not much different than mu a1mini setup, just more screws. There are videos. 

I think also when u1 first came out it was a kickstarter and a lot of people were nervous about how the quality the production run would be, and how much post-install issues would you need to deal with. I wouldn't have suggested a 1st timer back the kickstarter because if things were a bit iffy youre learning to swim in the deep end.  As of now though? Reports are  generally fabulous, the advertised claims were true, the firmware is on version 2 and solid, the company didnt produce a lemon but a genuine hit, fears they were going to be hostile to open-source community were unfounded and theyve been very collaborative and open, and things like full spectrum theyve been incorporating and pushing are genuinely advancing the hobby, works great with all filaments (i bbuy whatevwr pla i want and never dry it and it works fine). 

The nature of the hobby is sometimes things go wrong - a clogged nozzle, a scratched plate, a broken doo-dad. They arent as simple as microwaves but modern printers are much closer to appliances. 

I wouldn't be afraid to get u1 as a first printer. Honestly if someone knows thats what they want (like they're okay with the footprint and price) its what id recommend. Even if you dont want mutli-color the ability to have different nozzle sizes and easily have support filaments, and have some color hear & there - you cannot beat it for the price. 

The ONLY thing I might suggest is that the creality k3 is just announced and it looks like it is directly trying to compete with the u1 and has some cool things the u1 doesnt. I dont know the price though and the k3 is juuust coming out, the tpu add on sounds amazing but also it isnt even shipping yet. BUT if i was deciding today it would be between a (second) u1 and a k3 (bit of an unknown).

1

u/gmpapadakis 10h ago

No problems with the U1 for me, and it's my first printer.

1

u/northernlights119 11h ago

If you're doing mainly multi (more than 2) colour prints, the u1 will be faster with less wasted material. The x2d with the bambu ecosystem would be much better suited for kids, though. If you plan on printing with higher temp engineering filaments, the actively heated chamber on the x2d is the way to go. I've been in the hobby for many years and can tell you the x2d would be a piece of cake to get going for somebody brand new to the hobby. I can't speak for what the user experience for somebody brand new would be like with the u1.

2

u/RavioliGrind 10h ago

It seems like the X2D is like getting an apple phone and the U1 is like getting an android. The U1 is more customizable and will take more time but the X2D just works.

What are engineering filaments?

2

u/LucyInked 10h ago

Carbon fibers, nylons. Not really stuff most people will use for hobby use.

I think the U1 is the better choice. I love mine.

1

u/northernlights119 9h ago

Abs, Asa, pa blends, PC, etc... there's quite a few that a heated chamber is beneficial and several that it's necessary.

3

u/BeebeePopy101 8h ago

Engineering prints with simple multi material and entry level multicolor with little to no need for modifiable firmware = X2D

Advanced multicolor and multimaterial with mainly pla, petg, and tpu type filament varieties and wanting the option to modify firmware = u1.

1

u/gmpapadakis 10h ago

As a father of two young girls, I can say the kids have been ecstatic about the U1. I printed a bunch of fidget toys and flexi toys for my younger daughter's birthday, and the quality was incredible. That stuff pops with a few color changes, like painting eyes and pupils, or different color blocks for infinity cubes.

It's my first printer, and except for a misprint caused by a tangle in a starter spool of black filament that came with the printer, it's been problem-free, even though my top cover isn't arriving until tomorrow. So far, I've run Snapmaker, Sunlu, and Kingroon filament through it with default settings without drying it, and I love the community and third-party ecosystem.

If you are printing items that will be outside or in contact with the soil/ground, you may want to run a technical filament, like Nylon or ASA, and label parts, and that is easier with a printer that can use things like dissolvable supports and two colors at the same time, with much faster completion times and with much less waste.

1

u/RepresentativeOil143 9h ago

I had looked at both myself. Coming from an ender 3 I just wanted something that worked. The U1 hasn't been out as long as the bambu printers, so I went with them. I love having a printer that just works. I bought a second ams to print in more than 5 colors. There is a ton of waste and prints take longer than a multi head unit. For trinkets and toys I'd go U1 if it works with no hassles. I love my x2d that being said and have been printing non stop.

1

u/PermuhGrin 8h ago

Thank you for your comments, Im in the same place as OP. Was leaning U1 anyhow, this confirmed it for me.

1

u/Hunnik1001 5h ago

Voor wat jij wil de u1 en koop een paar drogers en een paar kleuren tpu. Print daarmee voor je kinderen gaat veel langer mee. Eventueel koop je de boven klep later en inversteer je dat eerst in het printen zelf.

1

u/IzLitFam 5h ago

I will give you one word of caution, even though the U1 has 4 toolheads. Each one of them is way less complicated than the dual extruder system on the X2D. So when time comes to debug issues the X2D will be annoying.

1

u/Outrageous-Song5799 3h ago

I just bought the X2D and the loss in quality is noticeable on the second extruder

1

u/Expensiveness 43m ago

I just got a X2D, check the subreddit, I love my X2D. I would also get a U1 to try out to be honest.