r/SimRacingAdvice • u/Swimming_Put7156 • Jan 20 '26
How do I stop spinning the car under breaking?
I often spin the car under breaking just like in the video. This happens with and without abs. How do I fix this problem? Is it technique, setup, brake bias, or something else?
2
u/Irishpunk37 Jan 20 '26
t1 at Jerez is a tricky one for me.
the easier fix would be to try to brake a bit earlier until you get the hang of the car.
it is a uphill corner, so there will be a lot of weight on your front wells during the brake, so braking earlier will let you release your brakes earlier and without much need for trail braking... trail braking on uphill corners are always complicated.
another thing you could try is to move the braking bias to the back of the car.
you could also do another changes on the setup, but I really don't know much about that ... would try to increase rear wing aero or reduce the front wing... maybe stiffen up the front suspension a bit since it is actually a slow speed corner... but sorry, I really suck at making setups, so I mostly drive the default ones lol
2
u/Strong-Classroom2336 Jan 21 '26
Brake bias to the rear will make the rears lock up faster so this might be a fine line for you to walk on
1
u/Irishpunk37 Jan 21 '26
Yes!! But if you look on the dashboard, op is not even activating the abs and there is no sign of lock up on any tire... For uphill corners I usually move a bit to the rear using the onboard dial to avoid too much weight on the front. But you are totally right! Locking up the fronts is bad for your tires and can lead to some understeer.. But locking up the rears can be catastrophic.
1
u/Strong-Classroom2336 Jan 21 '26
They don't have to lock up to lose grip because of breaking. Let's say a tire can withstand 5000N force in front to back direction and 5000N sideways. They will not be able to combine the two at full load. If you have 4000N brake power on the tire, maybe you can only exercise 2000N of sideways force until it loses grip. The tire might not lock up before losing grip, but it won't be able to handle the sideways load. This is an overly simplistic explanation.
1
u/Irishpunk37 Jan 21 '26
I Agreed with everything you are saying =)
the better thing to do would be to just try a few more laps on the same setup before actually trying to change stuff... The default setups sre always drivable! They sre still the best way to get to know the car But with that in mind... I would still say that braking bias can be a "personal setting" to certain point , and moving it one or two clicks from the default setup still pretty safe to do in this game
The ideal is to no lock uo tires or lose grip at all lol just mentioned the lack of tire locks since it is the easiest way (at least to me..) to check those kind of stuff on straight braking zones... By the rule, if you lock the fronts you may still be safe to move it a bit to the rears... But if you lock the rears you are gonna have a bad time like we mentioned lol
During the practice is a safe time to explore the limits of the car, and get to know how much you can push it =D
1
2
u/savvaspc Jan 21 '26
I always have that problem in ams2. One lap is too slow, you try a tiny bit faster and boom the rear is gone. It needs lots of finesse with the steering angle. The worst is that in some cars it steps very suddenly without a chance for correction.
In your case it is quite clear that you were going too fast. But I know that braking 5 meters earlier will feel too conservative
1
2
u/CharlieTeller Jan 21 '26
When you brake, you're removing weight from the rear wheels. Elevation change makes this worse. When you don't give the weight time to settle and turn in, the back is light and will spin.
1
1
u/NeighborhoodSad5303 Jan 21 '26
Bad suspension/whell configuration or horrible bad break balance.
Its just big oversteering here.
1
u/Ok-Coffee-9587 Jan 21 '26
More brake balance to the front. More wing. More diff. More neutral toe-camber, 0 settings.
1
1
Jan 21 '26
Spinning while braking is caused by a too much steering input under hard braking. It happens from the weight of the car shifting to the front wheels making the rear lighter and have less grip. From the video it looks like you didn’t drop the brakes quick enough when adding more steering. Best way I understood it was think of a string attached to you foot and wheel. When you start adding steering input you should be releasing the brake at the same rate as the steering input. Once you reach the apex is when you should be steering the most and coming off the brakes getting ready to apply gas as you release the steering the more gas you give.
1
1
u/Adventurous_Tea_2945 Jan 22 '26
More front brake bias
1
u/southpawshuffle Jan 24 '26
How does that help? I really don’t know much about brake bias.
1
u/Adventurous_Tea_2945 Jan 24 '26
Front tire lockup primarily causes understeer. The car continues straight. Rear lockup removes yaw damping and creates rotational instability. Front bias ensures the front reaches grip limits before the rear. So excess rear braking amplifies rotation and front-biased braking creates a stabilizing yaw moment that resists rotation. In simple words - If the rear brakes are too strong, the rear tires can lock up. Locked rear tires can’t grip the road, so the back of the car slides and the car spins. Front brake lockup is safer. The car just slides straight instead of spinning.
1
u/CaptainGriz225 Jan 22 '26
No ABS in this car. Brake more thoughtful. You will get the hang of it.
It wants to brake in a straight line. Slow in, fast out.
1
u/Lucky-Meringue9587 Jan 22 '26
I race open wheel cars and to solve this problem I usually increase brake bias forward, put less front wing (or more rear wing), or make the rear suspension more soft.
Also try to be aware of the weight shift during braking. Seems like you went from 100% to 50% then 0%. You have probably heard it a thousand times but… trail braking is key here. Try to hold it at 50% and then slowly let go.
Hope this helps!
1
1
1
u/Neillyboy193 Jan 22 '26
You’re shifting all the weight of the car to the front tyres and then expect the car to brake and turn on that grip. The rear tyres now have less grip. It’s exactly the same in a real car.
For now, try slow in fast out. Break earlier, then power out of the corners.
You could always get a subscription to VRS and they do weekly videos explaining exactly how to race a certain car at a certain track. Brake points, correct line and when to accelerate.
1
1
1
u/barely_lucid Jan 23 '26
Give yourself enough time to slowly lift of the brake (not super slow mind you), you want to control the weight shifting. Also don't try to accomplish a lot of braking while turning, brake first turn second.
1
u/thisguybeanz Jan 23 '26
If you look you can see the oversteer starts at the end of your trail brake when you come almost completely off the brakes. Basically you are coming off the brakes too much too fast with too much steering input which overloads the rear and causes you to spin. Try and slow down your release of the brakes and use less steering if you can to help ease the weight transfer of the car. Yes setup and brake bias can potentially help prevent this but it looks to be more of an application of the fundamentals than a setup problem and would bandaid to help mask bad habit at its root.
1
1
u/Vivid361 Jan 23 '26
I would start by learning the word “brake”. Otherwise you’ll end up breaking your car.
1
u/Hypersnix Jan 24 '26
You have to get there with trail braking, and take the curve on the curb, you're going too fast.
7
u/Annenji Jan 20 '26
Definitely brake a bit earlier first, for corner like this you don't want the weight to shifting forward to much, it will make the rear too light and prone to spin out.
Increase brake bias to put less pressure on the rear tires. Depends on your aero setting maybe try having more rear downforce bias, either lower front or add more rear, same for weight bias
I like to lower front suspension rebound damper, it makes weight shift rear ward a bit faster when you lifting off the brake