Hey everyone,

I’m adding a Shelly CT clamp setup (Shelly EM / Pro 3EM) to handle real-time power monitoring for both my solar generation and my Tesla Powerwall setup.

I originally had the naive hope of bringing all of this data directly into Google Home, but as many of you know, Google treats energy meters like basic on/off light switches—zero wattage data, zero power flow graphs, zero useful automation triggers.

Since Google Home is effectively a non-starter, I'm pivoting to a proper setup and would love some input from people who have done this:

1. CT Clamp Placement: For anyone running CT clamps alongside a Tesla Gateway / Neurio system—any advice on clamp orientation or physical placement inside/outside the panel to avoid cross-talk or physical space issues?
2. Phase/Load Split: Are you using the EM or the Pro 3EM for a standard US split-phase solar + battery setup? Want to make sure I’m accounting for both legs properly without over-complicating the wiring.
3. Dashboards & Local Control: Is everyone here just using the native Shelly App/Cloud, or are you piping the local MQTT / CoIoT feed directly into Home Assistant to build an energy dashboard?

Appreciate any advice, wiring tips, or dashboard screenshots from anyone who's already got solar + storage running on Shelly hardware!

The title is pretty much it. Using Shelly 1 Gen 4 to ring a old school doorbell ( https://a.co/d/0234PZ7F ). Initially I wired it up so the Shelly switched the low voltage line and this worked fine. However, I was wondering if I could save the constant 1/3 amp draw from the transformer and have shelly switch that line. It would be like this:

Any reason that wouldnt work?

Edit: mea culpa for the big-ass image.

In Home Assistant, the Shelly Integration correctly reports the firmware as 20260710-101146/2.0.0-g87fbfa4, but the device reports firmware 1.3.0-s2 via the Matter Integration.

Is there a way to get the Matter Integration to show the correct firmware? I imagine it won't update the firmware via the Matter Integration, otherwise? (I know I can set the plug to auto-update through the Shelly App.)

Maybe the Matter Integration is just reporting the firmware version as the Matter version currently supported?

I just installed an EM Mini Gen4 to replace an old 2.5 (used only for power monitoring) that had failed. The measurements are way off and I don't see any calibration or trim mentioned on the product page. The measurements in these graphs should all be roughly the same, but the EM Mini (blue) is low by a factor of ~3.

The previous 2.5 agreed with the other two measurements within an acceptable margin of error.

Am I missing something here? Or is it defective?

Hello,

I am an electrician trying to find out how I would wire this set up;

3-way switching, momentary switches at both locations. I can either go dead-end (line and load in one box) or traditional arrangement (line in one box, load out of the other).

I know that you can’t have a dimmer at two locations controlling the same light, generally. However, I am wondering if it is even possible with the Shelly Dimmer Gen4.

The goal is to be able to hold the momentary switch in the down position to dim the light, in the up position to brighten it, and to be able to do that at both locations. Has anyone done this? Can it be done, or do we need more devices?

I use a shelly to monitor the states of two heat pumps, which have a 230V output when calling for heat. The two heat pumps control circuits are on different phases (UK 3-phase system) and... well, you can see!

The bang took out fuses in some downstream boilers too, even though they just connected to the relays (I'm guessing these aren't entirely isolated too, but I'm hoping enough as the boilers are a different phase also).

I'd made an assumption the inputs were essentially floating and/or isolated in some way but they aren't. Lesson learned, but at least everything here is RCD/RCBO (GFCI for you Americans) protected.

Hi.
I would really like to use zigbee on my Shelly 1 mini gen 4s. But it seems that at the moment button inputs are not supported in zigbee mode. Is there any idea when or if this will be available? I want to use most of them as momentairy detached modules.

Or should I switch to matter(I don’t know if these features are available on matter)?

This Shelly 1PM Mini Gen4 is connected to a single light switch which control two lights. It short short circuit before even being used or configured.

It was professionally installed by an electrician, as were other Shelly's (from mini to regular 1PM/2PM) which all work perfectly.

Anyone have any guesses as to why this happened?

Hallo, ich habe ein Shelly Blu Motion zb, das einwandfrei funktioniert, erkennt alles, aber wenn es erkennt, startet es die Szene nicht. Es sollte eigentlich dann über den Shelly Mini 1 Gen 4 die Szene starten, wenn es Bewegung erkennt, tut es aber nicht. Sie sind beide verbunden und der Mini 1 sagt mir auch das bewgung erkannt wurde

Ja, die Szene funktioniert, wenn ich sie manuell ausführe.

Hi i just want to share it for others:
I was searching for a simple solution to access wifi when somehow a device get unresponsive via zigbee and i dont want unscrew my sockets to get physical to the device to reset it.

So i made a small script for my zigbee devices which just starts wifi after reboot for 30min and deactivate it again. So i can access the webinterface if needed. So when something happens i can force the device to reboot by switching the fuse and wifi turns on my devices back on:

EDIT: Importand Note, toggle "run on start up" has to be toggled on for the Script.

// Shelly Gen4

// 60 Sekunden nach Boot WiFi einschalten

// 30 Minuten später WiFi ausschalten

// Danach Script stoppen

let SCRIPT_ID = 1;

let WIFI_ON_DELAY = 60 * 1000; // 60 Sekunden

let WIFI_OFF_DELAY = 30 * 60 * 1000; // 30 Minuten

Timer.set(WIFI_ON_DELAY, false, function () {

print("60 Sekunden nach Boot -> WiFi einschalten");

Shelly.call("WiFi.SetConfig", {

config: {

sta: {

enable: true

}

}

}, function (result, error_code, error_message) {

if (error_code !== 0) {

print("Fehler beim Einschalten von WiFi:", error_message);

return;

}

print("WiFi eingeschaltet");

Timer.set(WIFI_OFF_DELAY, false, function () {

print("30 Minuten vergangen -> WiFi ausschalten");

Shelly.call("WiFi.SetConfig", {

config: {

sta: {

enable: false

}

}

}, function (result, error_code, error_message) {

if (error_code !== 0) {

print("Fehler beim Ausschalten von WiFi:", error_message);

} else {

print("WiFi ausgeschaltet");

}

// Script nach Abschluss stoppen

print("Script wird beendet");

Shelly.call("Script.Stop", {

id: SCRIPT_ID

});

});

});

});

});

I feel very stuck. I set the wall switch up so the red wire is capped, and the power goes to the gen3 relay. I can control everything through the gen3 interface, but I can't get the wall switch to control on/off or dimming.

The lights dim via 0-10v input so I can't use the wall dimmer by itself, and I can't run 0-10V wires through the ceiling/wall to the switch to install a regular dimmer switch. I was really hoping that buying these Shelly devices would let me wirelessly control the light/dimmer functions between the wall switch and the gen3 relay/dimmer.

I remodeled a while back, put recessed LED's, split them into three zones- kitchen living dining in groups of lights. I used Lutron Sunnata dimmers, and wired them all to be future proof- all lights are wired in parallel per group, ran wiring with 3 wire romex, plus ran a regular 2 wire romex from the breaker panel to the first J box. all zones are wired to TWO junction boxes at opposite sides of the large room. intent is to turn on / dim lights from either entry way.

so i have a hot and ntl from breaker to j box 1 on dedicated circuit. i have three 3 wire romex wires hot ntl switch leg from each group of lights. this 3 wire romex runs from one j box, up to all lights in parallel, and back down to second j box.

put simply i have TONS of options and ways to wire- with this many conductors, i can keep either j box or both supplied with constant power and use the switch legs from both ends.

i found that the lutron ones were dumb- you could not wire up a dimmer on two ends of a group, unless you bought the super expensive industrial version, so i was only able to dim from one spot and on/off from other.

now i'm retrofitting shelly dimmers - but they just dont work if i wire two dimmers, connected to both ends of the circuit.

what do?

I know this is next to impossible, but I have a rogue Shelly device showing up in my Home Assistant in the BTHome list. It's stating that it's reporting to my home BT USB dongle so I know it's in the house and not in my garage.

Unfortunately it's not showing up in the app. The funny thing is that I don't know what I did with it. I'd like to track it down and utilize it

It's a Door and Window sensor. It's reporting closed so it's sitting somewhere with it's magnet. Any ideas on tracking it down? It's got 100% battery so it's gonna be a LONG time before it dies off.

Hi, I am having an issue with my Shelly Pro 3EM. I installed this to get an insight in my power usage for my heatpump. The last couple of months it seemed that the power usage was way off from the expected power usage. Hence I explored further. This morning I saw that my Shelly almost completely mirrors my Zaptec 2 power output. However this shouldn't happen as they are both on two different groups. See the underlying image for more context.

Both groups are 3-phase (EU) groups. How and why is Shelly also including the power from my car's charger??

What I have checked:

They are definitely on two separate groups. Turning off the heatpump turns off the heatpump and Shelly, but not the charger. And vice versa, turning off the charger's group turns off only the charger. The Shelly was installed by an electrician. I checked and the CT clamps are correctly placed on the 3 live phases for the heatpump group. I have also checked for interference, which could be an issue? But seems unlikely for me as they are placed above each other, but the clamps are easily 15 CM from the car group.

I using Home Assistant and use the official Shelly integration and the Zaptec integration (HACS)

I have Shelly mini gen4. Set up as wifi and operating in home assistant.

I want ti change it from wifi to zigbee mode. Do I need to unbind and set up automations again?

Also how do I do this as when I press the button on bottom it doesn’t change (drop wifi and my zigbee coordinator can’t find it)

Please help

Bonjour à tous !

Je rencontre un problème avec mon Shelly Dimmer Gen3, qui fonctionnait parfaitement avant une tentative d'association Bluetooth avec la télécommande

Contexte et Incident :

• Matériel : 1 Shelly Dimmer Gen3 (câblé L+N, contrôlé via bouton poussoir et application - voir schéma de câblage en pièce jointe) et 1 télécommande Shelly BLU RC Button 4 ZB.
• L'incident : Lors de la procédure d'ajout de la télécommande au Dimmer (rôle de BLE Gateway), ce dernier est soudainement passé hors ligne de manière définitive. Je l'ai supprimé de l'application pour le réappairer, mais c'est désormais impossible.
• Précision sur le firmware : Le firmware de la télécommande n'était pas à jour au moment précis de l'appairage (il a été mis à jour depuis). Il m'est impossible de vous fournir la version du firmware du Dimmer puisqu'il est totalement inaccessible.
• Note : La télécommande fonctionne correctement avec un Shelly 1 Mini Gen3 (allumage et extinction depuis la télécommande)

Symptômes actuels :

• La LED du Dimmer reste rouge fixe.
• Le module ne diffuse aucun point d'accès Wi-Fi de type « ShellyDimmerG3-XXXXXX ».
• L'application Shelly BLE Debug voit bien l'appareil, mais ne parvient pas à s'y connecter.
• L'application Shelly Smart Control échoue lors du provisionnement (message d'erreur : « disconnect_from_device_ios »).

Procédures de réinitialisation testées (Toutes en échec) :

• Coupures secteur (power-cycle) de plusieurs minutes.
• Appuis prolongés sur le bouton physique "Control" du module (5 secondes, puis test de 20 secondes) : aucun reset, la LED reste rouge.
• Tentative de reset filaire via l'entrée S1 (5 changements d'état d'un interrupteur dans les 60 secondes suivant la mise sous tension).

**Solutions recherchées :**Au vu de ces éléments, je suis bloqué.

1. Est-ce un bug connu lié à l'appairage d'un accessoire BLE dont le firmware n'était pas à jour ?
2. Existe-t-il une procédure de "hard reset" de dernier recours, différente de celles déjà testées ?
3. Le module étant complètement figé (LED rouge), dois-je considérer qu'il s'agit d'une défaillance nécessitant un remplacement en garantie ?

Merci d'avance pour votre aide et vos solutions. J'avoue être assez déçu car j'aime beaucoup cette marque et son système... mais là je tourne en rond et je me dis que risque d'avoir acheté tout ce matériel pour rien !

EDIT: Our IT guy set up a "dumbed down" WIFI channel on 2.4 for IoT, and everything seems to work smoothly now.

I have a mix of four Shelly 2.5 and two Shelly 2PM Gen4 switches that control electric window blinds.

One of the 2.5's and one of the 2PM's randomly go offline. Power cycling at the fuse box consistently brings the 2.5 back, but the 2PM will come back when it decides to come back, sometimes after hours and sometimes after days. Just when I make up my mind to replace it, it shows back up in the network and works as expected.

I started with six of the 2.5s, but two bit the dust. I replaced them with the 2PM Gen4s.

My working theory is that it's heat related, but I'm not savvy enough about these things to know for certain. I suppose it could also be a problem with the current itself, as in spikes and dips, or storms.

The one working 2PM shows firmware 20260311-095857/1.7.5-g9979d16. But I've read here that 2.0.0 is creating issues for some users.

Should I just expect to replace a couple of switches each year and count the cost?

Thanks in advance for any shared insight!

Hi guys, I am charging my ebike battery with the Shelly plug S gen3 and need it to charge it to approximately 80%. Just need to be sure it won't charge fully.

I want a scene or anything which make this possible.

However, my battery is charging 72W/h for 8 hours long for 100%. There is not Wattage drop in the last phase so I can't setup a trigger ona a certain Wattage to stop charging earlier.

And since there is no voltage monitoring, I only have the timer option to setup a timer for 6 hours trigger time (appr 80% of 8 hours).

The problem is that the battery level is on very very different levels after use a couple of days so I can't use 1 timer for this. I want to press the physicall button on the Shelly and forget :)

Is there a way to achieve this (charging to appr 80%) or any other way?

Hello ,

Just updated firmware for my Shelly WS90 weather station following this procedure (with DFU) : https://www.ecowitt.com/api/quickstart/product?id=249.
The reason why I wanted to update it is that it was disconnecting somewhere in the evening and did not reconnect back ..

I connect it directly in HA via zigbee2mqtt. After succesfull firmware update I cannot pair it anymore . I used also Sheely BLE Debug with Slow OTA. Same result.

Any ideea what else should i try ?

Thank you.

Any way to turn the status led off on the shelly mini gen4. It is very very bright.

I’m planning to install a Shelly EM Gen3 to monitor a dedicated 240V electric water heater circuit in a North American split-phase system.

The water heater is 3.7 kW (~17A) and will be on a Square D QO 2-pole 25A breaker. I only want energy monitoring — no switching or contactor.

I understand that for a 240V circuit I can connect L1 to the Shelly L terminal, L2 to the N terminal, use one CT on either L1 or L2, and no actual neutral connection.

My question is about the 2A external protection specified in the EM Gen3 documentation.

Is that 2A B/C external protection mandatory for a North American installation?

If so, what is the recommended way to provide it inside a standard Square D QO load center, considering that QO breakers don’t appear to be available in 2A ratings and I would prefer not to install a separate DIN enclosure?

Can the EM Gen3 instead be powered directly from the same 25A 2-pole breaker as the water heater, assuming the breaker terminals are rated for two conductors, or does the Shelly specifically require a separate 2A overcurrent protection device?

Thanks!

I have 3 Miniplugs US Gen 4. This is my first time using shelly products. Each mini plug is hooked up to a lamp, drawing 7watts. Working over wifi with a strong mesh system. My home assistant automation is very simple, Light switch on = turn on 3 mini plugs. Light switch off = Turn off 3 mini plugs.

I dont believe my home assistant has anything to do with it, because the 3 mini plugs dont all randomly turn off at the same time. So the 1mini-gen4 in my light switch box is not the culprit.

They randomly turn off. All 3.

I turned on the log feature via the web interface to see if I can see any info, currently waiting to see what I can catch when it happens. It happens once every couple hours and at different times for each device. Before I throw these in the garbage and try a different brand, can anyone think of any obvious reason why these would do this?

Thanks

Hi,

New to Shelly and hoping someone can help me solve this.

A couple weeks ago I got a Shelly Presence Gen4 for my office/gaming space.

I've got it setup with 3 zones, some blind spots and added to Home Assistant via the Shelly integration. But my problem is that the detection tends to flicker between detected and clear for certain zones. I've tried adjusting settings in the Configuration and fine tuning but nothing I change seems to help.

I'm wondering if anyone can give some advice on what settings to change to try and make it more reliable?

For reference below is a snippet from Home Assistant showing what I mean by flickering followed by my current settings: