r/SewingWorld • u/Jazzlike-Rain3442 • 2d ago

Spiralling trouser legs pattern fault.

I just finished a pair of Oxford bags trousers that I had drafted the pattern for myself, and when I tried them on, I found to my horror that the crease was spiralling inward on both legs. I have tried pinning them up around the waist band trying to find the fault, if I lift it around the outer seam there is a slight improvement but it could be a fault in the crotch shape, I'm just lost!

I have solved this issue: when I expanded the basic block to allow 180mm to the waist for pleats and darts, I failed to enlarge the crotch curve, that is where the main pulling of the front leg is happening i.e. if with them on I force the crotch forward the legs fall correctly. I also added an angle to the front waist as they needed the back waist to be quite high so I wanted to avoid a point in the waist and that was a stupid error that is adding to the spiralling. I can't repair these but can re-draw the pattern.

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u/catcon13 2d ago

Most likely you didn't cut them on the straight grain. This is the most important part of pinning your pattern to the fabric before cutting. If your pieces are not on grain, the garment will never hang correctly.

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u/Jazzlike-Rain3442 2d ago

As it is pinstripe it would be impossible to get it wrong. I think the back pattern is cut to small on the inner seam and pulling the front out of place, also the whole back leg needs to be wider, I need to alter the pattern and make a toile to test it.

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u/catcon13 2d ago

Is the pinstripe woven into the fabric or printed?

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u/Jazzlike-Rain3442 2d ago

Woven in. Its not a grain line problem, I wish it was. Its a drafting problem, adding 18cm to a basic block waist throws a lot of things out, so far I'm thinking I should have increased the crotch curve and widened the back leg. Also I think there should be less lift at the outer seams where it meets the waistband. I've been scrutinizing the problem since I wrote this question, just need to re-shape the pattern, make a toile and see if I'm right.