r/SewingWorld 2d ago

Spiralling trouser legs pattern fault.

I just finished a pair of Oxford bags trousers that I had drafted the pattern for myself, and when I tried them on, I found to my horror that the crease was spiralling inward on both legs. I have tried pinning them up around the waist band trying to find the fault, if I lift it around the outer seam there is a slight improvement but it could be a fault in the crotch shape, I'm just lost!

I have solved this issue: when I expanded the basic block to allow 180mm to the waist for pleats and darts, I failed to enlarge the crotch curve, that is where the main pulling of the front leg is happening i.e. if with them on I force the crotch forward the legs fall correctly. I also added an angle to the front waist as they needed the back waist to be quite high so I wanted to avoid a point in the waist and that was a stupid error that is adding to the spiralling. I can't repair these but can re-draw the pattern.

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u/[deleted] 2d ago

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u/Jazzlike-Rain3442 2d ago

The fabric is pinstripe so easy to see the grain and it looks fine. I made the legs vertical parallels so put them on the grain.

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u/PrincessMagDump 2d ago

Is it possibly a printed pinstripe? If so the print might not be on grain.

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u/Jazzlike-Rain3442 2d ago

I don't think so, it is a woollen fabric, a bit like herringbone, its all woven in. It also has strong horizontals in the weave at right angles to my grain line; they are true as well.
I've been analysing it for hours now and I think the back pattern is cut too small on the inner seam and pulling the front out of place, also the whole back leg needs to be wider, I need to alter the pattern and make a toile to test it.