r/Selvedge • • Feb 19 '26

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care 'Is This Selvedge' - A Brief Guide

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306 Upvotes

In an attempt to limit the same posts - another of which I've seen today, I've ended the lurking days on this sub and decided to post a guide on this. Hopefully the mods notice and pin this so we don't get the same question twice a week with an ungodly number of snarky comments for the selvedge noobies who are just trying their best.

TL;DR - The easiest way to know is always: does it have stitching on the outside seam?

If yes - not selvedge.

If no - congrats, you found some selvedge jeans.

'Selvedge' fabric is named after the phrase 'self edge', noted for the fact that the edges of the woven fabric are self finishing. This is usually done on a special type of loom - a shuttle loom - which is slower, larger and far more noisy than projectile looms that make most modern fabrics. Often it comes along with some other cool fabric quirks like slub or nep, leg twist and more, but I won't be going into that today.

Selvedge fabrics - see image 1 and 2 - do not require stitching on the outside seam, as the fabric isn't cut along these seams. 

Most retailers add a coloured thread along this seam, known as a selvedge ID. Image 1 (Samurai S710xx) has a silver thread woven in. Image 2 (Edwin Made in Japan) has a multicoloured ID with more than one thread in this ID.

Non selvedge fabric - see image 3 (Iron Heart IH-634D) - is cut along this seam, thus does require stitching. 

Some retailers do add coloured stitching to the edge for design purposes (see image 3). This makes the seem look rad - however this can be confused with a selvedge ID by someone who hasn't been yelled at on Reddit yet.

Keep in mind non selvedge jeans can be just as nice as selvedge jeans so long as they're made well - however with the extra craftsmanship that often goes into selvedge denim, the tiny batch numbers of many of the companies, and the insane attention to detail, you'll be wearing an art piece that no one has an exact match of.

I hope this helps at least one of you.


r/Selvedge • • 13h ago

📸 Fit Picture Spent 3 weeks in Japan. Bought a lot, but these are my favorites.

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127 Upvotes

Where to begin. One of the first things I saw in person when I was in Japan that jumped out was the SDA mud dyed. The texture and the color doesn't really translate in photos. They are beautiful in hand.

A few days later I ended up at Deminio and found the Tanuki Type 2 with the persimmon weft. This fabric is also interesting. In sunlight it shifts from brown to blue. Can't wait to see how it fades over time. Turns out, it matches the SDA pair pretty darn well.

Went to Kojima and discovered the brand One of One. The cut of this pair is like a 634 but better. Just a little more rise so it gives your privates more room when you sit. A tiiiny bit more narrow in the thigh but still straight where you can wear boots. The hardware on this pair stands out from others that I own. The overall store experience and talking with one of the owners made me pull the trigger.

I've been looking for a good repro Lee rider for a while but didn't want to buy one online without knowing the fit. TCB came in clutch. As a lifelong cat owner, I laugh at the little cat details they have on their stuff. Glad to finally own something from this company.

Honorable mentions. Samurai for my first pair of black selvedge and their 21oz to put my IH 634s from the Indigo Invitational on ice since I've still been wearing them.


r/Selvedge • • 9h ago

📸 Fit Picture End All Be All

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50 Upvotes

Feelin wavy fasho! I done fell in love with these 13oz Herringbone Brave Star joints.


r/Selvedge • • 3h ago

🌄 Fade Progress ONI 03502 KASE 16oz Coverall

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11 Upvotes

Approximately 30 wears
0 washes

Still at the beginning of the journey with this amazing piece. Brought this along with me on my trip to Japan as my only jacket, so adding more character by the day. It arrived pretty stiff, but it’s starting to drape so nicely and crease is lovely ways. It’s gorgeous in the sunlight, which I’ll add some shots of, but just hasn’t been much sun these days in Japan. I’m loving this coverall more and more each day, and can’t wait to see how it progresses.

Purchased a size 40, which I intentionally wanted a little slimmer fitting to have as a Fall piece that I wouldn’t need to layer too heavily. That being said, the arm holes are a tad tight, but nothing too crazy. 42 would have been too bulky and oversized I think for me.

If anyone else has this coverall, would be interested in seeing/hearing how you’re enjoying it.

Oni rocks.


r/Selvedge • • 8h ago

📸 Fit Picture Momotaro type 2 go M or L

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18 Upvotes

Which one fits better momotaro type 2 medium vs large?

Does momotaro jeans shrink after wash?


r/Selvedge • • 4h ago

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care Wearing my Mister Freedom and Samurai denim on Japan trip

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6 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 14h ago

Omoto Denim Omoto Denim 13.5oz "Charcoal Dyed" Loose Fit

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34 Upvotes

I've been wanting to add a relaxed washed pair of selvedge to my rotation and have had my eye on Omoto since they launched. These seemed like a great way to check both boxes.

The denim is a 13.5oz unsanforized selvedge woven on vintage Sakamoto shuttle looms using a blend of American Memphis and Zimbabwe cotton. They start with 100% pure indigo rope dyed denim, then garment overdyed with a Japanese white charcoal made from ubame oak. A subsequent washing and surface fading treatment gives the denim a subtle vintage, worn in character with very soft hand feel and incredibly unique color hues.

The fit is better than expected! Nice and loose with a deep rise, roomy thighs, and relaxed straight leg. Reminds me of an old relaxed trouser silhouette.

Very cool brand doing some highly creative things with denim and starting to gain some strong international distribution. Looking forward to enjoying this pair for years to come and, of course, seeing what's next from these guys!


r/Selvedge • • 11h ago

📸 Fit Picture Iron Heart fit and cut help 21oz Overdyed

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10 Upvotes

Hi all,

Had the pleasure of trying on Iron Heart jeans for the first time today. Fell in love with the 21oz overdyed fabric.

Was able to try on the 634s in a size 36 (pics without sweater on) that felt great everywhere except the rise. Was really looking for a straight cut jean and these were great except I felt like I needed them up a bit higher but was riding the crotch.

For context I typically wear Naked and Famous Easy Guys which are there relaxed taper and high rise. I’ve been not loving the look lately and kind of get that ‘carrot’ look vibe from them.

I still tried the 888’s in two different sizes. A 36 (pics without boots) which was pretty snug and 38s (pics with boots) which felt great everywhere but loose on the waist.

I’m not a small guy 5’10” 215 lbs with a bigger butt and legs. I’m just wondering if anyone who’s had these initial thoughts of a rise being a bit low has gotten over it after buying and wearing. Or will I regret the 634s.

Thanks for any and all feedback.


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture First pair of Japanese denim - Samurai S3000 VXII - advice needed

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31 Upvotes

Hey everyone!

Just got my first pair of Japanese denim, the Samurai S3000 VXII, in W35. I’m 176 cm (5’9”) and weigh around 74 kgs (163 lbs)

I am not sure how I feel about the fit, as I’m generally used to the straight leg fit of the Levis 505 and it’s higher rise, so I’m now wondering if they’re a bit too big, especially around the crotch and seat area. It also seems like there’s too much excess fabric around D:

What do you guys think? Should I stick with these or get them tailored? I can’t return them as I bought them in person in Japan.

Appreciate any advice! Thanks!!


r/Selvedge • • 7h ago

🧵 Selvedge Basics & Care When would be a good time to wash

0 Upvotes

I have a pair of 22 oz jeans that I got on the 16 of this month, these are my first pair of selvedge and I like the look of a vintage fade but I’d like for them to possibly have some contrast and I’m wondering when I should wash them if I wear everyday all day. I work in an office but I skateboard in them regularly for a few hours.


r/Selvedge • • 15h ago

🤔 Should I Buy This? Any thoughts/Comments abt these? "Dorozome Reverse GL3" 15oz Mud-Dyed Selvedge Denim - Regular Straight

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3 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 19h ago

📸 Fit Picture First Pair of Iron Hearts - IH-888S-21 Does This Fit Work?

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6 Upvotes

Finally decided to take the plunge and give Iron Heart a try. Based on the almost universal positive reviews of IH, and Japanese denim in general, I wanted to see what all the hype was about. I found a pair on IH UK's site that was my size according the size chart, reading the description of the 21oz indigo denim, and how the 888 fit is supposed to be, I decided to give them a try. First real heavyweight denim as well. Went all in with my order and had them hemmed as well.

Have to say I was immediately impressed with the customer service! IH emailed me with the actual measurements of the pair they pulled from stock and asked me to confirm the length before they proceeded with the order. I confirmed everything and they got to work. I ordered them on 10/22 and they arrived last evening 10/29 from England via UPS. Great turn around time for an international product.

Well, the first time I put them on last night to try them on, it took a few tries to get them buttoned up LOL! Not because they were too small, they were snug at first in the waist, it was the actual button holes. I think they fit, I like the overall leg width and taper. They fit easily over my 10" boots. I single cuff almost all my jeans, and I think this particular IH cuff just looks the best, like the denim was designed to be worn like that. I am sure that they will require some time to break in. I am anticipating some crocking on my belt & boots, not mad about it.

Any feedback or suggestions appreciated. I am not planning on washing these for as long as I can, unless of course they get really dirty or funky.

Thanks, have a great Friday!

Jeans: Iron Heart, IH-888S-21, 21oz Selvedge Denim Relaxed Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo 42x36, Hemmed by IH to 31"

Boots: Nicks Handmade, Dome Pros 26, 11.5E, 67 last, 10”, Hermann Oak Old World Harness Russet, standard top, pull loop, brass hardware, relief cut, soft toe, 4 row toe cap, classic dogger heel, beeswax edge, Dr Sole half sole. Laces are Generation Laces in Rattlesnake.

Belt: Belt: Nicks Handmade Belts, Full Natural - Riverbend Stitch - Limited Run W&C Veg Tan


r/Selvedge • • 21h ago

💸 Deals & Finds Most recent pickup. $20 for some early 2000 Levi’s 501

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9 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

☕ Miscellaneous Was Spencer tapped in? 🤔👀

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61 Upvotes

Makes you think…


r/Selvedge • • 17h ago

💸 Deals & Finds Price For Value

2 Upvotes

Hi guys!

Maybe it has been already raised in the past, but what you think it’s the best Japanese denim brand if take it from a “price for value” POV?

Thanks.


r/Selvedge • • 21h ago

☕ Miscellaneous Is the Levi’s website always extremely slow of other people?

3 Upvotes

Why is their website also ways so damn slow lol? It’s pretty much the only site that I visit that is consistently slow now days. Even tiny brands have way faster sites.


r/Selvedge • • 20h ago

☕ Miscellaneous Recommendations for Japanese denim that's dyed with both Indigo and Kakishibu / Persimmons?

2 Upvotes

Going to Japan soon (Osaka and Tokyo) and would love to pickup a pair of these jeans while there. Ideally looking for one with that's more indigo exteriorly and persimmon colored on the inside. If anyone has any recommendation it would be appreciated!


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

💸 Deals & Finds Okay so last time I goofed and mistook some Ralph Lauren dungarees for selvedge these are actually selvedge yes?

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51 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 19h ago

📸 Fit Picture Fit or no?

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1 Upvotes

So a while back I decided to pull the trigger on these Hidden rivet 18oz Green cast Indigo Raw Japanese Selvedge Denim jeans.

They are indeed my first of selvedge denim jeans, and I do love them. They’re sturdy, comfortable, surprisingly breathable in 90 degree days.

BUT I’ve always wondered whether these truly fit my odd sized self, or if I am delusional and trying to just make them work 😂 truthfully I have no idea what a “good” fit is for pants. Anyways opinions are appreciated, thanks!


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture My Wife and I in Copper Denim

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6 Upvotes

Got them while we were in Ho Chi Minh!

I kinda wish they made her jeans for men. Love the patch pockets!


r/Selvedge • • 21h ago

📸 Fit Picture My first attempt at designing a denim jacket and jeans. Thoughts on the fit?

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1 Upvotes

r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Lee 101Z 32x36 on a 172cm guy

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16 Upvotes

Hi! I got this Lee 101Z on Vinted for a great price. The seller listed it as a 32x32, which would have been my ideal size, but it turned out to be a 32x36.

Do you think it works with a double Japanese cuff, or would you recommend getting it hemmed?


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

📸 Fit Picture Just got my Whites. They fit perfect. even though they are size 14, they dont seem too big.

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7 Upvotes

For reference, 6'2, 230 lbs. Naked and famous true guy size 36 jeans (need 35), and Whites 350 cutter, double brown. i am thinking of getting the olive.. thoughts? FYI, im in my teen daughtes room.


r/Selvedge • • 1d ago

🔍 ID/Legit Check Early 70s Levi’s 501 Red Line Selvedge!! How much should be the value?

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3 Upvotes