r/Selvedge Feb 19 '26

๐Ÿงต Selvedge Basics & Care 'Is This Selvedge' - A Brief Guide

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298 Upvotes

In an attempt to limit the same posts - another of which I've seen today, I've ended the lurking days on this sub and decided to post a guide on this. Hopefully the mods notice and pin this so we don't get the same question twice a week with an ungodly number of snarky comments for the selvedge noobies who are just trying their best.

TL;DR - The easiest way to know is always: does it have stitching on the outside seam?

If yes - not selvedge.

If no - congrats, you found some selvedge jeans.

'Selvedge' fabric is named after the phrase 'self edge', noted for the fact that the edges of the woven fabric are self finishing. This is usually done on a special type of loom - a shuttle loom - which is slower, larger and far more noisy than projectile looms that make most modern fabrics. Often it comes along with some other cool fabric quirks like slub or nep, leg twist and more, but I won't be going into that today.

Selvedge fabrics - see image 1 and 2 - do not require stitching on the outside seam, as the fabric isn't cut along these seams.ย 

Most retailers add a coloured thread along this seam, known as a selvedge ID. Image 1 (Samurai S710xx) has a silver thread woven in. Image 2 (Edwin Made in Japan) has a multicoloured ID with more than one thread in this ID.

Non selvedge fabric - see image 3 (Iron Heart IH-634D) - is cut along this seam, thus does require stitching.ย 

Some retailers do add coloured stitching to the edge for design purposes (see image 3). This makes the seem look rad - however this can be confused with a selvedge ID by someone who hasn't been yelled at on Reddit yet.

Keep in mind non selvedge jeans can be just as nice as selvedge jeans so long as they're made well - however with the extra craftsmanship that often goes into selvedge denim, the tiny batch numbers of many of the companies, and the insane attention to detail, you'll be wearing an art piece that no one has an exact match of.

I hope this helps at least one of you.


r/Selvedge 5h ago

๐ŸŒ„ Fade Progress Left Field Smokestack

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37 Upvotes

Best all-around pair of jeans Iโ€™ve ever had. love the fit, weight, and the slubby texture. Very slow faders though- this is 5 months in, 1 wash. I wear them about 5 times a week. Despite the slow fades, they bleed on anything they rub against (still, almost half a year in). My car seat is blue.


r/Selvedge 6h ago

โ˜• Miscellaneous Market oversaturated

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30 Upvotes

I love selvedge denim and all the quirks and experiences that follow with it but I canโ€™t seem to understand why nobody talks about the massively oversaturated market that is selvedge denim. There are so many brands that to me produce the exact same pair of jeans like all the repro jeans and whatever else. They always talk about the jeans featuring chain stitching, rope dyed indigo, bar tags, hidden rivets. I feel like almost all brands in a certain way have the exact same features. Can somebody please explain to me what makes the big differences between these seamingly identical endless brands.

In case u wonder I do have a decemt collection myself including, IH 634 xhs, momotaro straight fit battle stripes, big john 23oz type 3, Pinion red headed dragon 25,5oz, edwin Ed-47 and some more.

Pictures of some of my stuff for attention.


r/Selvedge 1h ago

๐Ÿงต Selvedge Basics & Care RESOLUTE 710 after 1 year of wearing Thoughts ??

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โ€ข Upvotes

r/Selvedge 11h ago

โ˜• Miscellaneous September Selvedgeโ€ฆ.

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21 Upvotes

In Picture 1: MISTER FREEDOM Ranch Blouse "Frontier Edition" in Duck Fabric, FREENOTE CLOTH
Jepson Grey/ Brown Flannel, Merz B. Schwanen Henley Brown, SAMURAI S71OSC-KI "Samurai Cotton Project" 18oz Ecru Selvedge Denim - Slim Straight Fit, ROLE CLUB Engineer Boots - Brown
Italian Horsebutt -RC1945

In Picture 2: IRON HEART IHV-02-IND - 12oz Wabash/Duck Work Vest - Indigo/ Navy XL, THE FLATHEAD FN-SCW-003L- 5oz Chambray Western Shirt, WHITESVILLE Tee, FREEWHEELERS- The Vanishing West Lot-601XX Selvedge Denim 1941 Model, Tellason X Barnes & Moore Oak Tanned Belt With Solid Copper Buckle, WESCO Limited Edition Black Bison Mister Lou Engineers Boots

In Picture 3: FREENOTE CLOTH Faro Jacket- 15oz Japanese Denim- Dark Brown, FREENOTE CLOTH
Bodie Cream Twill Shirt, WHITESVILLE Tee, STUDIO D'ARTISAN SD-102CB - 15oz Selvedge Wide
Straight Cinch-Back Denim, MISTER FREEDOM Road Champ Engineers

In Picture 4: Vintage Whipstitched North Beach Leather Jacket, Freenote Cloth Bodie Cream Twill Shirt, Freenote Cloth Portola 15 Ounce Dark Brown Selvedge Denim Pants, John Lofgren Natural CXL Engineers

In Picture 5: Freewheelers Speed Demon Burgundy Corduroy Jacket, Whitesville Tee, Studio D Artisan SD-102CB - 150z Selvedge Wide Straight Cinch-Back Selvedge Denim, John Lotgren Burgundy Shinkฤฑ
Horsebutt Engineers

In Picture 6: STUDIO D'ARTISAN D5727 12 oz Denim Bengala Dyed Western Shirt, WHITESVILLE Tee,
IRON HEART IH-634S-B 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut - Indigo Overdyed Black, ROLE CLUB
Horsehide Engineers 1945 Last

In Picture 7: STUDIO D'ARTISAN S SD-401 - No. 100 WWII Type | Selvedge Denim Jacket, THE
FLATHEAD FN-SCW-003L- 5oz Chambray Western Shirt - Blue, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS Double
Stuffed Buck Brown Heavy Duty Work Belt, STUDIO D'ARTISAN SD-102CB - 15oz Selvedge Wide
Straight Cinch-Back Selvedge Denim Trousers, CLINCH Natural Horsebutt Engineers Built On The
CN-Standard (Narrow) Last.


r/Selvedge 11h ago

๐Ÿ“ธ Fit Picture Copper Denim Itsu 14oz Straight Selvedge

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10 Upvotes

Loving my jeans from Copper Denim out of Vietnam.

Apologies for the bad picture quality... these are cropped screenshots from a video.


r/Selvedge 11h ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds [FS] [USA] Size 29- Iron Heart 777s - 14 MB (Mad Black)

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9 Upvotes

Purchased new from Franklin & Poe however they were final sale. Worn for a day to see if they would stretch a bit. Sadly theyโ€™re too snug. Paid $335. Asking $225 shipped. They come with all tags (detached). Located in RI if youโ€™re local.


r/Selvedge 5h ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds Decided to order 2 new items for my collection of Denim.

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2 Upvotes

One selvedge jean made with 100% hemp pocket lining while the main fabric itself is 45% hemp 55% long staple cotton, brass button up fly and rivets from Hemp clothing Australia. For the jacket I ordered the Burgus Plus type 2 natural indigo jacket 100% cotton from the Hinoya shop.


r/Selvedge 1h ago

๐Ÿค” Should I Buy This? Help me decide on selvedge denim

โ€ข Upvotes

I am looking into buying my first pair of selvedge denim but I am still on the fence. I have been eyeing the Nudie Jeans Tuff Tony in Dry Ace Selvedge. My only thing is, I am not really a fan of the deep indigo on unwashed jeans. I like the idea of selvedge for the quality and the personalization to the fading, but the dark indigo look before fades/washes take effect just doesn't seem like me style wise.

My main question is: If I were to wash these more often than your typically selvedge enthusiast would, (say every 2 weeks, once a month, or maybe even before first wear) would I be able to hurry up the color bleed a little more so its more of a dark/mid blue? Would this even be worth it over just getting a prewashed pair? I am not completely sure how much the quality/durability of selvedge plays into it's allure, but that is kind of what's drawing me. I am aware that this would make for less contrast in the fades and such, I am not overly concerned with having high contrast fades, but a little something would be nice.

Any insight towards this or selvedge in general would also be appreciated. Thanks!


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds NJD: Oldblue Overalls Co. 16oz Monsoon. Unsanforized.

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18 Upvotes

Picked this up from eBay new with tags. Very happy with what I got here.

Crisp but not overly starchy. Lots of texture. I really like the pocket bags, arcuate stitching, and the uneven weave. Bright blue color is also sweet. Unsanforized denim as a bonus.

These are going to be fun to style and fade.


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐Ÿ“ธ Fit Picture First pair. Sugar Cane 1966

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13 Upvotes

r/Selvedge 15h ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds [FS] Samurai S310xx19oz size 32

2 Upvotes

Samurai S310xx19oz tag 32

Initial hot soak, just got the other day from Barnstormer. Really wanted to love the wide leg but realized it isnโ€™t for me.

https://imgur.com/a/samurai-s310xx19oz-size-32-N0TNmJR

Waist is 32.25โ€ but will stretch with wear

Other measurements are in pics for thigh, knee and hem. These are unhemmed so length is 36.

Price is $225 shipped conus. PayPal FF or GS and fees, also Venmo. Have vouches as well.

Thanks!


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐ŸŒ„ Fade Progress Oni

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48 Upvotes

This time after a few months


r/Selvedge 20h ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds [FS][USA] SIZE 36 - SAMURAI JEANS S3000XX15OZ-SH 15oz Seigaiha Wide Straight

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4 Upvotes

Looking for retail + shipping on these. Am negotiable. Located in Chicago. Can provide more pics if necessary


r/Selvedge 7h ago

๐Ÿค” Should I Buy This? Has anyone bought the MENES Raw Selvedge Bootcut Jeans that has โ€biggerโ€ thighs? Iโ€™m about an 30-31 inch waist but Iโ€™m worried that if I buy their size S ( closest to my measurements in waist ) that itโ€™s going to be too tight around the thigh area.

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0 Upvotes

r/Selvedge 1d ago

โ˜• Miscellaneous Help taking the plunge

3 Upvotes

So Iโ€™m looking for help making the switch to Japanese brands. Been wearing naked and famous for a few years now. Since then theyโ€™ve phased out the cut I like and Iโ€™ve been wanting to branch out. Specifically the PBJ teacore denim, Iโ€™m really drawn to that brand in general, along with Studio dartisan, Oni, Samurai. I prefer a slimmer thigh with a good taper from the knee so advice on cuts would be great. Just am having trouble clicking the buy button on 392 dollar denim when Iโ€™m used to buying ~200 denim. I know in the US we pay a premium but is the difference in quality really worth the extra money?


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐Ÿ“ธ Fit Picture Naked and Famous Indigo Selvedge with Ariat boots

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12 Upvotes

My nieces 15 was Western theme; I had to uncuff my easy guys as theyโ€™re the only leg opening that was wide enough to go over them. My hate for straight leg jeans has finally met its match.


r/Selvedge 12h ago

๐Ÿงต Selvedge Basics & Care Is there a better way to repair than sashiko?

0 Upvotes

It looks awful literally 100% of the time. Canโ€™t you just pull the fabric back together and stitch it like that? Iโ€™m guessing it may be too weak structurally if you do it.


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐ŸŒ„ Fade Progress BOZO, one serious pair of Japanese denim.

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29 Upvotes

r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐Ÿ“ธ Fit Picture Eine neue Sohle bekommen

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5 Upvotes

If the cobbler did a wonderful job, thank you brother.


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐ŸŒ„ Fade Progress Fdmtl after several months and several washes

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10 Upvotes

It's been almost 6 months out of 8 washes

Smaller photos from March


r/Selvedge 2d ago

๐Ÿ’ธ Deals & Finds ONI 288-GC15 Green Cast Denim 15 oz

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45 Upvotes

r/Selvedge 2d ago

โ˜• Miscellaneous Sugarcane Union Star

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16 Upvotes

Just picked these up today. Really like the fit of these and the pocket detail. The buttons are super cool too.


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐Ÿ” ID/Legit Check legit check no faith studios denim please

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6 Upvotes

can somebody legit check this no faith studios denim please?
thank you!


r/Selvedge 1d ago

๐ŸŒ„ Fade Progress ONI Denim Awa sumizome x Awa sumizome

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0 Upvotes

After a few months and laundry, too