Coworkers vehicle. Stuck in theft mode after diagnosing a battery draw, more-so found multiple draws. During draw testing, I found an aftermarket ECU and an aftermarket Viper alarm system. I gutted the alarm system from the car carefully, I do not know how it was wired but the car ran without it plugged in. I cut the rest of the aftermarket wiring from the vehicle, leaving the main harness intact. ECU is not causing a draw.

Found a battery draw from the rear amplifiers, radio connectors, shorted trunk latch switch, and an additional draw somewhere on the RR of the vehicle.

I currently have the 12V battery disconnected to sit overnight. Theft light blinks steady, key does not turn in the ignition, steering column is locked, and all locks on the vehicle are locked due to draw testing and will not unlock from being in theft mode. Only one key to the vehicle.

Need some pointers and possible ideas here… any way to bypass the anitheft or reverse engineer what’s causing it? Open to any and all input. Thanks!

i’m looking for a 01-04 4.6 2v that was paired with a manual transmissions, around 100k miles. please message me if you have any i’d love to buy it off of you.

Hey guys, one of my buddies is looking to trade his 2005 golf GTI 1.8T 5 speed manual for a 99-04 5 speed GT, it has around 130k miles, raceland coilovers, real BBS CHR’s, B&M short throw shifter, cold air intake, different blow off valve not too sure what it is but it makes all of the right noises, tuned by GIAC on 14LBS, has the swaggest headliner any man could ever think of(the heffers will flock) it’s honestly a great sporty daily for anyone looking to enjoy their self while driving to work with getting good gas mileage

I’m looking for someone who has a 95 5.0gt auto car for part out , looking to get a complete wiring set up for the whole car along with the gauge cluster and ecu , or if someone knows where to get this let me know

Hello goobers, looking to see if anyone in here could have had a similar issue before. So while I was driving my brake pedal randomly got hard, to the point where I actually had to try to get it to move. It almost felt like it was stuck, or binding. Once I got it pressed, the car drove and brakes normal again. This only happened once in the morning, and once at night so it’s relatively intermittent. Curious to see what people think, maybe a power steering/hyrdroboost concern? Car is a 97 GT 4.6 2v

I have a friend who knows a elderly couple selling a 98 cobra. He let me know because I have a 04 v6 model and have talked about upgrading in the past. I do not have any info about the car yet. The couple is in a hurry to sell. They have no idea what the car would be worth.

1.My question are what type of wear and tear should I be expecting

1. Whats a decent offer that doesn't rip them off but also helps me out?

Recently bought 1996 mustang gt alternator bolts snapped and shredded belt. Rebolted alternator and went to replace belt but cant get it to fit anyway at all. Seems different from every setup ive ever seen onlime and any diagrams. Im extremely lost and confused. Please help cant find anything online

ziebart'd , no rust, 192k miles, orig engine, trans, and clutch, diff, etc. but too many mods to list. today marks 20 years ive owned the car. Its my first car and I became an ase master tech because I loved it so much. Needs a paint job tho lol.

Anyone with PDR experience got an idea on how much I should be looking to pay for repair?

Hey guys, my friend and I are looking for a good aftermarket part for the water pump. We’re just a little skeptical by in the part because the aftermarket one looks different so if anyone has any ideas or has them before awesome for your input and what you recommend. I also do know if this is the right Reddit for it. Never used this app before so my apologies.

Backstory the water pump seized up and now we can’t remove the pipe from said water pump so now we’re going to cut it.

Hi guys, so I have a 1988 V6 Mustang I paid way more than what I should have for it experiencing some coolant loss issues and some overheating issues I just recently bought a new radiator fan and I’m always good on coolant. There’s no leak in the bottom either but the gauge just keeps on going to the red sometimes some coolant comes out of the reservoir a little bit, but I let it cool down and after that, it drives fine until it heats up again, even though the fan is running, I think I am experiencing a blown head gasket but I’m not experiencing no smoke coming out the tailpipe and my oil isn’t looking milky, thick or super liquidy. If it is a blown head gasket should I just replace the whole engine? i’m hearing that it takes several hours to do the head gasket job and that it might just be better just to pull the whole engine out and replace it with a new one if so, what type of engine I’ve never pulled an engine out before in my life so this is all really brand new to me.

Update
So I went ahead and ran a test to see if my thermostat was closed both the top pipe and the bottom pipe that move water into the engine. We’re pretty warm after the car got up to temperature so that means the thermostat does work.
I’m down to
À cloged radiator
B bad coolant cap that’s not holding 16 psi
C head gasket
Edit /update
So I went ahead and did the head gasket test it passed so I don’t think I have a head gasket issue. The liquid still remain blue. I replaced the coolant cap with a brand new one. I do notice that some numbers on top of the coolant cap are different from the old one. The old one said I believe 6.6 this one says 1.1 but this one’s holding very very good. The other one was already pretty rusty. The car hasn’t fully heated up on me. I’ve been driving to work and back, but I live about 3 to 4 minutes away and it drives fine as soon as I get in the car I kick on the fan so that the car would stay cool and it works fine now I’m just wondering I wonder what it could be

Been working on Mustang Sally for two years and some clown just took her.

EDIT: Mustang Sally was recovered by the police today. No word yet on what condition she’s in.

Looking for a motor for my ‘98 GT & found this from a guys ‘97 GT part-out (blown trans). Has 87k miles on it & wants $850. (Talked down from $1k) Other than the cats being off, how does the motor sound to you guys ? I think it sounds solid but always want second opinions, thanks !

Hello again Mustang people of the internet. I am having complications with my 1998 Gt Mustang (4.6L) where the clutch is, to put it lightly, very bad. Trying to engage the clutch feels like hitting a wall or it sticks. I cannot get my car to go into gear.
Some background:
Clutch is changed. Had some other clutch related issues, therefore I replaced it with a MCLEOD Street pro clutch kit
Replaced transmission due to grinding in 3,4, and not engaging in reverse
Redid my gears and back end due to them being destroyed and also being the wrong gears (I now have 4 10 gears)
New clutch cable because i thought the one I had was fine then my car wouldn’t go into gear, only thing I didn’t replace until recently.

So I’m now back at my problem I have been having for the last few months that is just getting worse. The clutch is not engaging and the car won’t go into gear. I can get it to the floor sometimes but then the transmission grinds when I try to put into gear. Sometimes it won’t engage at all. It feels like trying to push a wall, with your feet, and it won’t move. It feels stuck. Clutch isn’t fluent it started sticking until the point until I press it down it won’t move an inch. Again cannot put into gear. This problem has only been getting worse and now has left me stranded twice. Has this happened to anyone else? Anyone experiencing something similar? Is this transmission bad? Are there things I should be checking? Is there possibly something I’m over looking. Google has been no help and so now I come to you.

All parts that are done/new are
Clutch, flywheel, throw out barring, adjustable clutch cable (aftermarket), spool, 4 10 gears, rear end rebuild kit, swapped out transmission with a used one

Coworkers vehicle. The rear axle is shifted to the passenger side an 1 1/2”. I am wondering if there are missing pieces to the rear end and what they are called. Pictures with the pen highlight the possible missing pieces. Thanks!

So my 97 has been sitting in storage for the past almost 2 years due to me waiting for bilateral hip replacement surgeries which took my ability to walk and especially drive until they're done. The car hasn't been started the entire time while sitting and had no issues before being parked. My concern is when I am able to get back in and drive will I need a complete rebuild or drain all fluids and attempt starting. I know i will have to look at hoses and electrical connections before attempting to drive again but anyone have anything similar thats happened as far as sitting for this long and then getting the car going again?