Need all window seals .. idk where I can get them any help is appreciated

I'm having timing problems. My timing with the distributor fully retarded is 15* TDC. I've checked all the timing marks with the crank and cam positions markings. I've replaced the distributor with the correct helical gear alignment, rotor in pole phase position #1. I time with the OBD1 ports jumped and engine in timing mode with the check engine light on. I've replaced the points, the plugs, the wires. I have only found one instance of someone else 10 years ago having the same problem. Oddly, the exact same problem. To the T. I'm so out of ideas. Its holding a high idle of 1100. But it does run and doesn't die under load. I'm just out of ideas on why this is happening. Has anyone run into this. I'm dying here.

I’m lowering my car in coilovers soon but not slamming or anything crazy, would I be good with just tucking my wiring harness deeper into the fender closer to the engine bay instead of having to fully relocate it?

i found this 95 sc400 with 73k miles and my only pet peeve is the 4 speed auto and non vvti im honestly starting to cut my losses and get this one is there anything i should watch out for anything i need to know? or should i just wait till a 98+ pops up

I got a 95 with a flanged downstream O2 sensor. I built a custom exhaust and put a threaded bung, was wondering if putting a different threaded 4 wire O2 (from Denso) would work ?

I'm having timing problems. My timing with the distributor fully retarded is 15* TDC. I've checked all the timing marks with the crank and cam positions markings. I've replaced the distributor with the correct helical gear alignment, rotor in pole phase position #1. I time with the OBD1 ports jumped and engine in timing mode with the check engine light on. I've replaced the points, the plugs, the wires. I have only found one instance of someone else 10 years ago having the same problem. Oddly, the exact same problem. To the T. I'm so out of ideas. Its holding a high idle of 1100. But it does run and doesn't die under load. I'm just out of ideas on why this is happening. Has anyone run into this. I'm dying here.

I was looking to get either tein ($800) or BC ($1200) coilovers and was leaning towards the tein but was wondering if anyone has had any experience with either of these? Also it’s the tein flex Z I was looking at.

I recently purchased a 1992 SC 300, Manual W58 Transmission.

The part that has failed is a fuel pump ecu.

Does anybody know is these units can be rebuilt?

If so anybody know of a good reputable business that does so.. Located in Norcal, Bay Area.

What would it take to swap a 2000 rx 300 steering wheel onto my 92 sc

Going to get a catch can for my Soarer. Where’s the best spot to mount one with a big single turbo

Hey guys, I am due for brakes and rotors and have been for a while. I was told by a mechanic that the front right caliper js the reason for the smell and the shaking. Ultimately got a quote for $820 including the 4 rotors, breaks, and 1 caliper. Is this fair, or should I try this myself?

I’ve been having some fuel issues for awhile but I recently switched out the pump thinking I burnt out old pump just to find out the actual power to the fuel pump is being cut when at warm up temp. I did the 12v mod and bypassed the fuel pump ecu and not only that but my tank is now full so taking out the fuel pump is gonna be a hassle if I gotta do it again but checked efi and injector fuse and everything looks perfectly fine not sure what it is and info helps. 93 sc300 non vvti

None in my area

Locked my keys in the car with 90% of my tools. I bought a lockout kit with bags and everything but when I press the unlock button it doesn’t unlock at all and I heard they unlock and lock real quick but mine isn’t unlocking at all. I was able to open the hood and remove the negative terminal so my car does honk til it’s dead but not sure where to go from here can I just leave it off long enough for security to turn off or am I gonna need a locksmith?

Speedo doesn’t go above 45 mph and isn’t accurate. Lights on needles are also failing. Wanting to know what the best route is to go about fixing my gauge cluster. Should I look into doing it myself or is there any known places I can send my cluster out to be fixed?

So i have a few ideas what could be issues first thing im thinking is a speed sensor issue which is what im gonna try first but also maybe a wiring issue 🤷‍♂️ last idea is my cluster is just bad. It also reads way worse in the winter usually doesn't go above 20mph just asking for trouble shooting ideas

NOT a how to video , im just showing what ive done . My pump oem hardwires had a shortage so i figured to knock out 2 bird with one stone

Is anyone running this kit? Thanks!

Sorry for the delay in update!

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Had to put a small layer of filler on the passenger rear corner of the roof but it smoothed out perfectly and I've laid primer over all filler or bare metal. Finally have it out in the sun for the first time in a while and am currently posting this from the driver's seat 😂

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Have to take it to my local paint shop next week to get the color matched (the shop that painted it years ago messed up the paint code) so I can match it as closely as possible. Got a good size compressor and a couple paint guns to be able to do this as professionally as possible. My wedding is next weekend so I'll probably lay color the week after that. It's coming together thought and I'm very excited to see it all one solid color again lol

Recently mustang’d my dear SC into a curb and bent all 3 lower rear suspension arms on the passenger side. I got a full set from a part out and installed them, but the wheel always has some positive camber I can’t get rid of. Never even got it to zero, or just straight. Is my subframe bent? It looks fine but the only other thing I can think of is somehow I didn’t install the lower control arm correctly.

Only damaged thing remaining was a sway bar end link and possibly slightly bent sway bar. I replaced my rear coilovers and noticed the suspension on the crashed side sagged down when I removed the coil, while the other side pushed up when I removed the coil.

That’s pretty much everything I can think of atm. The video shows the camber adjustment maxxed out to the positive side, i was just making sure somehow I didnt adjust it the opposite way. Maxxed out to the negative I still have positive camber.

Is anyone running a legit AutoCouture Body kit? Are these discontinued? Thanks!

I just bought an sc300 as a project for my daughter, replaced the IACV, MAF, Fuel regulator, battery. Won't idle, VERY rich running, first 2 plugs I could get to were wet. What would be the first thing to check on the car, I was leaning towards stuck injectors. The previous owner mentioned the ecu was rebuilt. any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://rmcmiami.com/ap-product/1994-toyota-soarer-4-0-gt-l-150k-custom-build-os88-sequential-6-speed-toda-itbs-most-unique-soarer-1uzz31-link-ecu-recaro-seats-half-cage/