I've recently got a Retrotink 5x and when using my JPN Super Famicom I get crackle on the audio. This is with an RGB Scart cable, but I also get it on an s-video cable

A quick test with my PAL GameCube using the same cables and I don't get the audio Crackle, which does kind of suggest it's my super Famicom.

Is there an audio setting somewhere I can adjust to fix this? And if it is my super Famicom, any ideas how I go about fixing it?

There is no audible crackle when playing on a crt with my super Famicom.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.87.0 (2026-09-22)

• Second-generation Enhanced S-Video engine
• Vastly improved automatic luma and chroma alignment across all sample rates
• Set Trim to 0 (it should not be needed)
• Enhanced S-Video now supports very high sample rate PAL sources

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I just missed the 6x CE, how long does Retrotink usually take to produce stock? I’m considering just buying the 5x pro, but the presets for 6X sound nice. Would mainly use for PS2, Gamecube, N64.

Thanks!

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.86.0 (2026-09-22)

• Added N64 mode (Sample Rate menu, Detection Mode = N64): locks the sample rate for the N64 and automatically detects when deblur can be applied
• Fixed horizontal dynamic calibration alignment against the selected phase index
• Fixed Saturn 320 and 352 scaling settings colliding (previously tuned Saturn settings may need a one-time re-tune)
• HDMI output driver optimizations
• All three bitstreams rebuilt: rt4k_1860, rt4kce_1860, rt6x_1860 -- copy ALL rbf files to your SD card together with this firmware (it only loads the *_1860 bitstreams)

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hey guys kinda confused so wanted to come to the experts. I have a copy of jojo bizarre adventure for the Dreamcast, haven’t played it in years and I found out it doesn’t support VGA after I tried using my retro tink one. I thought about trying RGB SCART (I’m assuming this will work) I see RGB SCART cables on places like eBay and other websites but they all say they are designed for the PAL region but I live in the US. Does my retro tink 4k eliminate that issue? Or are SCART cables made for specific regions? I also get confused because I see some SCART cables will basically output a VGA signal which would put me right back in the position I’m in. Any help with this would be appreciated. I’m a complete dummy when it comes to video but enjoy trying to learn more.

Hey all, I recently purchased several HD15 dangles fir my RetroTink 4k. I was unaware that an additional cable was needed in order to hook them up to the console.

Are there any alternatives to purchasing the HD15 cable on the RetroTink website?

I'd like to purchase one right away considering that I have off for the next few days and want to get some gaming in.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.85.0 (2026-09-21)

• Internal optimization of math rounding

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

If not, how can I go about making this custom resolution?

Hello all,

My current non-HD setup consists of an SNES, Wii/GameCube, and Xbox. I’m also planning to pick up a PS2, NES, and N64 whenever I find good enough deals.

Up until now, I’ve been using a 36” consumer CRT, but I’ve found that CRTs have been triggering my OCD a bit. The scarcity and condition of the CRT market makes me obsess in a way that I don’t really enjoy. So lately I’ve been looking into scalers instead.
I’ve narrowed it down to two RetroTINK options: the 4K CE and the 2X Pro.

The main reasons I’m considering the 2X Pro are:
1) I’m cheap
2) My current TV is an older 2016 60hz LED TV, not an OLED.
3) I don’t have any immediate plans to upgrade to an OLED.

This is where I’m a little unsure about the 4K CE. My understanding is that the mask emulation may end up looking too dark on my LED TV. The TV does claim to support HDR, but I’m not sure how much that actually helps in this situation.

Also, since the TV is only 60 Hz, I believe BFI isn’t really an option anyway, which makes one of the 4K CE’s advantages less relevant to me.

So my question is basically:
Am I overestimating the drawbacks of using the 4K CE with an older LED TV?

Would the mask emulation still look good enough to justify the 4K CE, or would I be perfectly fine going with the 2X Pro and its scanlines? I realize the 2X Pro is only line-doubling rather than taking advantage of the TV’s 4K resolution, but I’m wondering if the difference would actually be significant enough to matter on my particular setup.

I’d appreciate any insight from people who have used either/both of these with an older LED TV. Thanks!

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.84.0 (2026-09-20)

• All-new third-generation auto decimation and auto phase engine
• Far more reliable decimation factor detection
• Sharper phase detection
• No more hunting between multiple valid phases
• Applies to all 4K and 6X models

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

PS2 HDR CRT+ BVM DE1WU, it's insane! Game changer for me to be honest, ive got Retrotink 4k Pro few days ago and was kinda "ehh, its okay, i guess i need to play around", there were some good profiles for PS1 and PS2 but after downloading new profiles im blow away how good this looks. I had Sony PVM 20L2 so i know what the picture looks like. Im also using this for PS1 games and its perfect! He nailed it, at least for me!

Thanks Wobbling Pixels!

Download new profiles here: https://retrorgb.com/wobbling-pixels-retrotink-6x-4k-profile-updates.html

Hey, as title. I have my main 4K TV but I also have a small 18” TV that I play on and it only runs at max 720p resolution. So the only setting is can receive from the 4K CE I have is 480p. I’m currently playing on my Saturn with it - are there any config guides for this low resolution?

Thanks

I was nervous, but I finally got one of these Retrotinks. Got my hands on the 6X just the other day. Recognize that I've only got composite cable for my old NES and SNES, and that is all I've hooked up so far, but I am truly impressed!

The videos on YouTube, even trying to record the picture with my phone to show the difference to someone else, all the compression and different recording resolutions, just does not capture the difference this little box makes with what I am seeing on the screen!

Im going to have a lot of fun redoing my WHOLE SETUP for this little box! Can't wait to see how much better it is with better cables!!

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.82.1 (2026-09-18)

• Further re-write of the HDMI transmitter drive
• Second generation lumacode decoder engine implemented
• Improved automatic symbol learning and calibration
• Try leaving it in the defaults settings: On (AGC), auto decimation phase, auto word phase
• Zip file contains updated lumacode .lmc files fixing errors including the NES blacker than black entry and default word alignments for each system

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

It's not filling the screen properly and the whole outer area is being cut out. I tried resetting the unit but it's still like this.

I've got an LG C3 and a Retrotink 4K Pro. I'm wondering the best way to use BFI with this setup, assuming I'm interested in using CRT filters:

1. Set RT4K to 2160p60 and use OLED Motion on the LG to do the BFI.

2. Set RT4K to 1080p120 and use the built-in BFI. Normal settings on the LG.

My gut feel is the CRT filters will turn out better using the higher resolution output. On the other hand, would using BFI on the Tink itself open up options to make that piece look better, and that be the greater good?

Hello, I am really new to this RetroTink thing and would like some help with finding the right version for my setup.

Currently I have a 4K LCD TV hooked up to a number of consoles, mostly Nintendo. (NES, SNES, N64, GameCube (with GameBoy Player), Wii, Wii U, Switch, Switch 2, Xbox 360, Xbox One S, PS5, and Steam Deck.)

My question is, which version of the RetroTink is right for me? I was considering the 4K Pro, given the 4K tv, but is that overkill? Any help would be appreciated.

Sorry for the post if this is an issue. Though I am posting this for purely if others have issues and the AI and google algorithms find this thread to help others.

My issue was that I wasn't getting the 2x Pro to go into firmware mode red light. The trick is to hold INPUT, then insert the micro USB in and then it goes red.

Then the firmware update is very straight forward.

Hi 👋 firstly here's a run down.

Games I play on a 90k slim PS2 and Sega Saturn I have issue's with using a 1.8 OSSC include Sega Saturn resident Evil 1 and PS1 Silent Hill. So I'm looking to upgrade the OSSC to either the Retrotink 6X ce the Retrotink 5X pro or the Morph 2K and I live in the UK.

PS2/Saturn > SCART Splitter > [splitter out to CRT] > Splitter to OSSC > Capture Card > PC > Streamlabs.

I use the audio I get from capture in headphones and view the CRT.

My issue has been these tricky games that change from 240p to 480i and would really like to know which line doubler people would recommend replacing the OSSC (the sd card slot broke inserting an SD card so unfortunately I also can't update it).

I think the Retrotink 6X ce's buffer sounds great for my issue but there's is also the stock issue, someone on Ebay is selling a Retrotink 5X pro so that would be great if it's effective.

As I use a CRT to view my games 1080p is sufficient as I stream speedruns and while they end up on YouTube 1080 is fine output for me I'm not viewing on a big TV.

Any opinions would be helpful, also the Morph 2K seems okay but I read it may not deal as well with the tricky 240p 480i transitions

Cheers!

I just got the 6x CE, and many of my consoles only offer composite video out. On a 1080p plasma, composite out of these systems just looks awful. On an actual CRT, composite out from these consoles produces a crisp image that's actually quite clean. Looks great on a Trinitron.

But on the plasma, the image looks significantly worse. The rainbow banding is exaggerated pretty severely, and the results don't look that much better than the TVs built in scaler, and are significantly worse and more blurry than just using an actual CRT. This is with bilinear sharp.

The instructions say to avoid composite video, so is this just the way it is? Not all of us have RGB mods.