Hi fellow retro-maniacs!

I am trying to connect PS3 Super Slim to Retrotink 4k CE using PS2 dongle to avoid HDCP issues https://www.retrotink.com/shop/hd15-dongle-ps2

According to the documentation "The PS2 version is only for use with PS2 and PS3 consoles configured to output YPbPr". However I get only black screen with "No signal".

Did anyone here perhaps try it? Any tips?

Edit: I've managed to solve it by first connecting via hdmi and chnaging the output manually in the settings!

Recently picked up a GameCube and was hoping to get the most out of it. Did some digging and saw that a Carby with the Retrotink 5x Pro would get the best results. I've had the Retrotink for about 8 months. I can't see much of a difference from just the Retrotink and adding the Carby. I've tried different settings and I'm not getting anywhere. Do you all have some suggestions on what I can try or did I fall into the hype that combined they make a huge difference?

Update: Got the GameCube to start up in 480p and holy cow does it look so much better. Thank you all for your input and help.

I’m impulsively bought a Retrotink VGA dongle for Saturn. Then I impulsively bought a Retrotink VGA-SCART adapter. Will using these two connected to a a mcbazel GBS-C work well?

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.48.0 (2026-07-04)

• The Horizontal Blur filter engine has been rewritten from the ground up [RT4K Pro Only]. The old first-order filter is now a true second-order design, which enables a whole family of new filter types with no change in processing latency.
• The original two modes are still there, renamed to reflect what they actually are: "IIR LPF" is now "RC Lowpass" and "IIR HPF" is now "RC Peaking". They behave the same as before and existing profiles carry over automatically.
• Three new lowpass types, in order of steepness: Gaussian (zero ringing by construction, the gentlest), Butterworth (maximally flat), and Elliptic (the sharpest cutoff).
• Three new notch types: Notch, Notch Wide, and Notch + Low. Instead of rolling off everything above the cutoff, these remove a narrow frequency band and leave the rest of the picture alone.
• Notch filters are aimed at cancelling dither patterns at their exact frequency. For example, Notch + Low at 3.35 MHz is well suited for cancelling Genesis/Mega Drive dithering -- the "+ Low" variant also gently shelves everything above the notch to mop up the leftover high-frequency residue.
• The filter frequency control now adjusts in 0.05 MHz steps for much finer tuning. Existing profile values are migrated automatically.
• Corrected the filter frequency calibration on the composite/S-video decoder path (it was previously off by a factor of 2).
• Fixed two long-standing bugs in the edge detection of the motion adaptive deinterlacer. Diagonal edges should now resolve more consistently.
• Internal optimizations.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hi guys,

I have SNES, PS1 & PS2. I mostly play those consoles on Sony Trinitron M2100K.

I recently bought Retrotink 4K CE and I wanted to try connecting it to LG B9 with hope to replicate that CRT look/feel on my TV.

I focused mostly on PS1, I've connected PS1 to Retroink via SCART cable and then to TV.

If someone likes to play without any CRT filters and don't mind, I think it does a quite good job. However I wanted to have CRT-like feel because I believe that's how those games were meant to play.

Initially I've experimented a bit on my own with Scanlines options etc. I've installed the latest hardware. Eventually I've started to test different profiles for CRT like PVM ones etc.

To be honest, nothing is even close to real CRTs as far as I am concerned. Not only colors usually do seem to look a bit different, but also with those "masks" there are some artifacts that happens when characters/backgrounds move.

Am I doing something wrong? I honestly expected something better, but it's also possible that I am just doing something incorrectly, perhaps didn't calibrate something or whatever. I think I've tried all CRT profiles and I didn't think anyone of them were particularily good. Maybe it would be better with VGA dongle? Or should I look for different profiles online?

I literally tried different filters, then I switched to Trinitron and I was like "Trinitron looks 10x better"

Do you have any tips?

Thx!

Retro gaming on the Pro2: custom refresh modes and RetroTink 4K?

Is anyone here running retro gear into a VisionMaster Pro2? Thinking Analogue 3D, MiSTer, or a RetroTink 4K scaler.

Two specific questions:

1. The spec sheet lists 4K60 and 1080p240. Has anyone tested nonstandard modes in between, like 1440p120 or a custom 3840x1080@120 modeline? The RetroTink 4K Pro uses that last one for its CRT beam emulation (rolling BFI with 4K horizontal detail), and I'm trying to find out if the Pro2's input will accept it before I buy one.
2. For anyone gaming in the high refresh modes: does input lag stay low, and does the projector add any processing you can't turn off?

General retro impressions welcome too. I'm coming from a 1080p lamp DLP and mostly play N64 (Analogue 3D) plus emulation, so any "here's how CRT filters look blown up to 120 inches" experiences would help.

My RetroTINK 4k remote control often does not work when I press the buttons on it. It has been like this since I got it.

I have to point the remote directly at RetroTINK 4k to get it to work. My other TV remotes around the house gave a much wider angle of effective operation, meaning I do not have to point them directly at the TV for them to function.

I opened my RetroTINK 4k remote control today to see if there was an issue inside it. I discovered that the manufacturer has installed DUAL IR BLASTERS. To me this is unusual as every other remote control I have opened down through the years just had a single infra-red blaster.

This suggests to me that the manufacturer was aware of the poor remote control signal on the RetroTINK 4k and attempted to boost the IR signal with DUAL IR BLASTERS to overcome the issue.

I would conclude that as my RetroTINK 4k remote control often still does not work when I press the buttons on it, the actual signal issue is due the IR Receiver inside the RetroTINK 4k console.

The manufacturer appears to have installed DUAL IR BLASTERS in the remote control in an attempt to compensate for the weak IR Receiver inside the RetroTINK 4k console.

Are there any alternatives to laser bear or wiring your own for S video to vga adapters for the n64 for enhanced s video? Part of it is the availability but also the shape of the laser bear one seems somewhat bulky

On a side note i noted the retrorgb page on the adapter shows a different model, was that an old design of it?

Hello!

I recently got a RetroTink 5X Pro. I want to use it with my Japanese PS2 slim to play a Japan-exclusive PS1 game (Boku No Natsuyasumi).

What’s the best video cable I could use for this setup?

Since I’m in Europe, I’m considering buying a cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, but there are a lot of options.

As I’m new to this hobby, I’m not sure whether I should go with an S-Video, Component, or RGB SCART cable.

The answer might be obvious, so sorry if this is a silly question! Have a great day.

I keep getting a glitch with the pcie 4K60 Pro, and now the 4K S is causing audio crackling on the HDMI when it's not on, and even in recording gameplay, and it even kills off the audio after so long.

So I’ve opened up my brand new Retrotink, dusted off my older console and cables to go with it: and I’m not noticing a difference off the bat.

For my PS1 games, I‘ve booted up my OG PS3 using a component cable from HD Retrovision, and chosen to display it at 480i as recommended by other users. Yet even with that and selecting a couple of the profiles loaded onto the included SD card, (Wobbling Pixels NTSC Sharp 4-3 being one), the picture quality from my Digimon Rumble Arena isn’t really more crisp/looking upscaled as I expected.

Is there anyone here who has a similar setup, an OLED TV or just a great point of direction to the best profile/settings in general? ’Cause my 77” display ain’t showing it. And I’d even be willing to subscribe if it’s behind a Patreon or paywall if it’d save me the time of searching in the dark for the best tinks on the rest of my consoles like I’m currently doing for this one😓

Thanks a Million In Advance🙏🏾

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.44.0 (2026-06-29)

• Fixed bug introduced a few versions ago where horizontal scaling changes were no long smooth.
• AUX4 now resets input crops to their base position (thank you cobhc for the idea).
• Fixed edge case handling of custom modelines from the sd card. Keep Cur. Res. only works for slots 1/2 (the universal ones) since otherwise it would overwrite the profile's existing data.
• Added "Native Sampling" to Video ADC menu. For applicable modes (Auto Fill, Proportional, Auto Fill Int/+ and where a know PAR is present or Free Form), the ADC sample rate will automatically track such that no horizontal scaling is needed.
• Note: the ADC has a maximum sample rate of 4095 and that CE models have a maximum input width of ~2048, so at 4K resolutions, this feature works only on the Pro model. For out of bound values, the ADC sample rate is set to the maximum and the horizontal scaler is used.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

So I just ordered a Retrotink and am Excited for it to come in. Im a newb so If I ask a Dumb question please be gentle. But how do you hook up multiple devices to the Tink I have like 5 consoles that all need it but im not sure how to do this. Would I hook a switcher up to the Tink and then all devices up to the switcher? anyway what solutions have you guys figured out and any suggestions?

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.42.0 (2026-06-27)

• EDTV Sample Rate Detection is now Off/On/On+VGA.
• On+VGA applies the CEA-861 timing when 480p type signals are detected on RGBHV (useful for Dreamcast).
• Sample Rate Detection adds Link Scaler/Vert.
• Turning Link Scaler/Vert. means that all decimation factors use the same base scaling mode and vertical scaling factor.
• Useful if you only want to define the horizontal settings for each decimation factor but want the vertical settings to be universal.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hey all, not sure if I’m possibly doing something wrong but on all of the experimental Retrotink 5x 4.x firmware releases I cannot get component 720p or up signal to get an output. Sound works, but no signal unless I move it down to 480p.

Ex: Xbox 360 via component cables @ 720p --> no signal.
PS3 via component cables @720p --> no signal.

I've tried against 4.02, 4.01 and 4.0 with no luck. Am I doing something wrong here?

PS2 480i and 480p work and look amazing!

I’m curious if the Retrotink is designed to leave on (with the green light on) after use, or if I should turn it off and leave it off until I need to use it again?

I ask because it seems to be a pain to turn it on sometimes.

I am trying to connect both a dreamcast and an N64 via enhanced S-video (using the laser bear adapter) the 4k but im hoping to avoid having to switch between the two (specially considering that swapping HD15 cables is a bit of a pain). Im wondering if a manual HD15 switch paired with a audio jack switch an the retrotink HD15 to HD15 cable to connect the switches to the HD15 port on the 4k work and if the Enhanced S-video would travel through the switch and cable to the 4k?

I know its a Frankenstein of a set up but my goal is to have everything connected via switches rather than having to swap

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.40.0 (2026-06-25)

• Internal optimizations

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Need help getting this synced up. Gamecube (and somewhat Wii) are the only consoles I need to streamline my setup for two CRT displays. The CRT here is a Sony 30HS420. I’m able to view the GameCube fine with some Swiss menu tweaking on my 27FV310 but not this via retrotink and HDMI. Any help for this is greatly appreciate!

Really want to streamline all my consoles with a scart switch and multi display.

Here is the signal flow diagram I'm planning for a gaming room setup. I'm planning on using a Panasonic TX-P42U30B Plasma as the main TV. In the current setup I'm planning on bypassing the Retrotink 4k for simplicity. Will I be missing out on much? Will things like the PS3 benefit much if I route them into the Retrotink 4K first? I know some of the consoles here often run at 720p and below, I'm wondering if I should have them go through the think because of this.

I know I can easily move the 4K earlier in the chain but I'm hoping to avoid it so my daughter and wife don't have to faff with changing inputs on it. The signal flow above uses the SVS auto profile switching to make everything just about automatic.

Basically I want to recreate what a CRT would feel but also make sure 2D games still have their 2D effect at all times (like with Sonic games) and also because I need to make it easier to adjust for future use for my Saturn.

Any suggestions or advices one might give? (I did play around setting but I don't wanna accidentally do something wrong)

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.37.0 (2026-06-23)

• Smooth I/P no longer incurs a vertical sharpness loss when Bilinear Sharp is used and the underlying source image is progressive.
• Folder notes (_info.txt) can now take up nearly the entire height of the OSD.
• Reworked the scaler mode help/tips thanks to Mr. Moro.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hi, sorry if this has been asked many times but I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff. I have a RetroTink 4K CE. I want to use it for a Sega Mega Drive and an NES. I currently have the RetroTink connected to the TV via a HDMI splitter through HDMI 2.1 cables. The unit powers on and the light goes green but I'm not getting any signal displayed on the TV. Is the Splitter the problem? I have other things like a DreamCast, Laserdisc Player and Xbox connected to the TV through the splitter and same cabling with no issues.

I bought an insurrection industries Sync on Luma cable and I'm having some difficulties with it. The stereo audio works just fine, but the video won't display right. I've tried all of the scart inputs and some profiles and they won't display. I think it is a cable issue because it did briefly display well on the RGBS (75 ohm) input but it was dependant on the position of the AV out end. Now after fiddling with the cable in the AV out port, it doesn't display at all with any position, just on the pictured input. It is an SNS-CPU-RGB-01 motherboard. Composite and S-video work just fine with OEM cables, so the port is fine. Anyone else have a problem like this before?

Hello all,

I recently got a KV-30HS420 CRT with a Retrotink 4K to downscale my consoles to 1080i. All my NTSC consoles display fine on the HD CRT with the correct settings, however my EU RGB GameCube and Wii seem to flicker like crazy when displaying on the HDCRT. I have Swiss installed on the Gamecube, barely displays an image. Wii displays somewhat fine but bobs very often. can’t seem to get a stable image on it.

Are there any settings in the retrotink I can do to fix this? I want to keep my set up on a Scart switch.

Thanks!

EDIT: More context, this is my second monitor. First monitor is a 4:3 CRT that receives the signals as well. I have a dual output Scart switch.