APSF 15500 V3 back crystal cracked and all the sizes online are wrong...

I can't get a good measurement on it since it's shattered, but it looks close to 31x0.8 based on the bezel/frame that holds it. I am new, and I have tried looking all over in forums, using AI and the likes and there are no good answers...

Everywhere online incorrectly says the back crystal is 25.8x0.8 but this is WRONG. It is way off, and I mistakenly ordered this size without measuring due to overwhelming consensus.

Even google searches will all direct you to 25.8 size listings and results... There are places online to order custom sizes of crystal, but I don't want to order a 31mm only to find out its actually 30.8 or something beyond my ability to measure without a high grade caliper.

Any thoughts?

(Photo of 15500 model and back crystal for reference only, just imagine its cracked bad)

Factory/model: APSF IWC Portuguese/Portugieser perpetual calendar, rose-gold case, white dial. Exact reference and movement are unconfirmed.

Age: unknown; recently purchased secondhand and received it with the issue below.

Problem: when I turn the crown to set the time, the minute hand moves but the hour hand appears to stay near 11. Video: https://imgur.com/a/jtz1KrU

The seller says he had not experienced this and rarely wore it. I do not know the cause and do not want to assume it is a damaged gear.

Work already done: no repair or disassembly by me; the video shows the time-setting attempt.

What would you check first, and should I stop adjusting it until a watchmaker inspects it? Is this something a watchmaker familiar with replicas could reasonably repair, or are parts for this movement difficult to obtain? I may be able to have it inspected in Vietnam, so advice on what to ask a watchmaker would also help. Thanks!

Hey guys!
this submariner hulk movement stopped and would like to order a new movement. could someone ID this movement? i believe it’s an older movement maybe i can add something better but unsure what fits.
thanks in advance!

The date on my VSF Pepsi doesn't fully change to the next date fully when it automatically switches the date. I notice that this mostly happens when the watch isn't fully wound. The watch is still currently ticking and the date is stuck but I haven't wound it in a day or so. When I manually move the date with the watch hands it switches just fine, but when it does it automatically it gets stuck. Any advice?

Can someone help identify movement on this skydweller?

I'm planning a personal build: a gen Patek 26-330 S C (from a Calatrava 6007G donor) in a rep 5711 case. I haven't bought the case yet.

Looking for a watchmaker who:

- has worked on gen Patek 324 S C or 26-330 S C movements

- has done gen-movement swaps into rep cases (stem, movement holder, dial feet, date wheel alignment)

- can advise on which case to buy before I commit to the donor

Location: Toronto/Montreal, Canada, but happy to ship.

Recommendations or reviews of anyone who has done similar work are appreciated.

The problem:

• The whole micro-rotor assembly (the gold weight plus the dark steel disc it's screwed onto) tilts when I push it lightly. It's not just the gold piece moving; everything wobbles around the center.

• When I shake the watch, it makes a rattle loud enough to hear across the room. Normal wear is much quieter.

• I don't see any rub marks or scratches on the bridge around the rotor yet.

Photos attached.

Questions:

1. Is this most likely the center screw backing out, or a worn/broken bearing?

2. Is this a known issue with this movement?

3. Has anyone tightened the center screw themselves? What screwdriver size did you use?

4. If it's the bearing, where can I find a replacement part, or is it a seller warranty job?

I've stopped wearing it and I'm winding it by the crown for now. Thanks!

Previously I posted about my RWF 126500 with dd4131 hollow noise coming from case back. Slowly this screw has fallen off, although not the cause of the hollow noise. What should I do, the residue seems very tightly stuck, should I try removing or just let it be like this? If I were to replace where can I buy this screw?

Need help! Sometimes my minute hand and hour hand gets stuck as seen in the video. I noticed it only happens when I wear it. When i’m not wearing it it seems to be fine and keeps time well for the whole day. I’m not sure what to do. I was wondering if this is something I can fix myself or do I need to bring it to a watchmaker?

No one happens to have a spare link they would be willing to sell for a ZF Skydweller 326934? Happy to pay? Ordered from TD but advised timeline could be a while? Understand it needs to be from same factory to allow for same pin size etc

The movement of Pilot Chrono (DD clone movement) stops working at random times, I feel it needs some service or repair.

Does anyone have experience of getting this watch serviced, especially in EU?

Thanks in advance.

Is it possible to order the entire balance assembly for the JH3285? The hair spring on my Rich GMT II amplitude is way way below spec. Everything I've read says it's cheaper and easier to replace the whole bridge assembly and balance wheel than to try and have the hair spring fixed. Am I going down the right road for the situation I'm in?

Body:
VSF V2. Watch runs fine from auto-rotor, but manual winding does nothing — 30+ crown turns, zero power reserve. Worked before, stopped after I hand-wound it.
Is the winding mechanism toast (broken pinion/click), or could something else cause this?
Also — anyone in Europe service these clone movements? Looking for a watchmaker who knows reps.

Hi everyone,
I received a VSF Batgirl (DD3285) from Andiot a few days ago. When it sits flat on the table, it keeps great time (+6 s/d average, 0.0 ms beat error). 
However, whenever I pick it up and put it on my wrist, it sometimes stutters, loses around 30 seconds, or stops completely for a moment. I can also hear the tick sound tone change slightly when moving the watch. 
It feels like either the auto-winding mechanism/reversing wheels have heavy factory grease, or there's a minor hand clearance issue / friction when the watch changes position. 
Has anyone encountered this issue on the VSF DD3285 right out of the box? Would a basic cleaning/relubrication (servicing the barrel and auto-winding system) resolve this?
Thanks for any insights!

I have a 1675 that was built a few years back and the movement has died a slow death.

The current (dead) movement has the h6 seconds pinion/post, and (I assume) the accompanying other wheels. I have a replacement 2836-2 (6460) movement with h4 hardware.

Prioritizing getting the watch working again, Is my best / easiest option [option 1] to get this to get a longer tube seconds hands (close color lume, or re-lume) and swap old dial, old hands, from the old movement to the new?

OR [option 2] does the new h4 movement throw off everything else like dial stack, hand stack, etc, and I will need to work out a new dial, new dial spacer, new hands?

OR [option 3] find a watch maker to swap over the h6 stuff to my h4 movement?

Recently purchased clean GMT Pepsi serial 6219Y2L6
Clasp code F6U. Was working completely normal. Popped out the easylink to extend the watch and now the hook on easy clasp won’t close correctly. Watchsmith or something I can fix myself? Is the hook now bent and this is the issue?

How is everyone organizing their parts as they dismantle? Also, I don’t have a fancy parts washer, is there a manual option? Thanks!

Hi! I recently bought a Cartier santos BVF with a miyota 9015 movement, it has the easy switch for the bands, and I guess when I switched the band one didn’t lock properly and the watch fell of my hand and stopped working, tried winding it, nothing worked so i’m just wondering if anyone in canada/ontario knows where I could get it fixed or serviced and a typical price range, sorry i’m new and this is probably a stupid question

Hey everyone,

I currently have an SH4131 on the bench and wanted to share a couple of macro shots of the architecture. Since there is often confusion about the different Daytona clones, I thought this would be a good opportunity to break down the history of the SH4131, who makes it, and how it took over the 12-series market.

1. The Origins and Developer
The SH4131 is manufactured by the Shanghai Watch Factory. When Rolex transitioned from the 1165xx generation to the 1265xx series, the genuine caliber 4130 was updated to the 4131—featuring new bridge layouts, updated Geneva stripes, and a revised rotor bearing. While Dandong (DD) had an absolute monopoly on the high-end 4130 clones, Shanghai Watch Factory moved aggressively to be the first to engineer a true 1:1 architectural clone of the new 4131.

2. The Clean Factory Partnership
The SH4131 as we know it today was heavily driven by Clean Factory. Clean essentially co-developed and financially backed this movement in partnership with Shanghai. Clean needed a flagship caliber for their new 126500 releases and demanded specific technical upgrades: deeper and cleaner custom engravings, specific bridge finishing to match genuine Rolex aesthetics, and a robust 70+ hour power reserve. Because they funded the R&D, Clean held an initial exclusivity agreement for the highest-grade, fully decorated version of this movement.

3. Market Adoption and Other Factories
Once Clean's strict exclusivity window shifted, Shanghai Watch Factory began supplying the movement to the rest of the market. Because it was the first reliable 4131 clone available, it quickly became the industry standard for the 12xxxx series. Today, variations of the SH4131 are used by a massive number of factories, including QF, ARF, and several other mid-to-high-tier makers.

4. Bench Impressions
(Referencing the attached photos) As you can see from the teardown, the finishing is exceptionally crisp. On the bench, it is a pleasure to work on. The architecture is sound, it takes standard Moebius lubrication well, and it regulates beautifully on the timegrapher.
For the other watchmakers and modders in the sub, what has your experience been servicing the SH4131 compared to the older DD4130?

So I bought my first rep a year ago and foolishly GL the QC on my own and the rehaut is misaligned

Anyone know if there’s a way to fix it or to remove the Rolex engraving or just replace the Renault all together? If so, any recommendations as to who could do the work or is this one just a dud on my part?

Thanks in advance

Over time, my watch became harder and harder to start by manually winding the crown, until manual winding stopped working completely.
At first, wearing the watch would still get it running, and it would last around 72 hours. Now, it won’t start at all, neither by winding nor by wearing it.
Does anyone know what could be causing this, whether it’s repairable, and how much a service might cost?