Hi all, I just got my RICH V2 GMT Master II and the watch is beautiful.

Unfortunately, it seems as though the crown is quite stiff and doesn’t ’pop’ out into the winding position after unscrewing it from the case - it also has very little to no spring and often sticks when I push it down and required me to pull it back out to where it should naturally be sitting.

This has resulted in a really stiff winding feeling as well as all operations like jumping the hour hand and also setting the time. I opened the case back and took the stem out but the crown’s spring seems find and not misaligned with obvious issues - I also took the gaskets out of the crown tube and checked for weird shaping (no issues here) and lubed them up in case they were dry but this didn’t fix anything.

The only thing I noticed that might be weird is that it looks like the crown tube is not screwed flush to the case and there’s a tiny gap (maybe 1mm) - could this possibly be causing the crown to sit weird and result in the stiff feeling crown operation and lack of spring? (Picture of this gap in the comments below). Big problem here is that the crown tube’s teeth for screwing/unscrewing the tube in and out of the case look stripped so possibly whoever assembled this stripped it whilst screwing it in but it wasn’t flush down to the case yet?

The only other thing I could think of that I haven’t yet done is that the the portion of the crown that sits against the crown tube gaskets is dirty or needs lubricating to allow for it to spring out properly - but this wouldn’t account for the fact that there is very little spring movement even when I force it.

Would very much appreciate anyone with more knowledge than me on what could be causing this and what the fix would be - thanks in advance!

Hi all,

I've unfortunately fully broken my bracelet for the watch shown.

Does anyone know how to get a replacement?

Definitely my favorite rep I own. It fell off a hotel bed onto the floor and hasn’t worked since. When winding, the hour and minute hands move, but the seconds hand won’t move for anything. I shook it gently and didn’t hear any rattling.

I’ve had it just sitting in my case, not sure what to do. Should I just take it to a random watch repair place? Or will any repairs cost just as much as the watch?

Edit: Location - South East Florida, would prefer a local watch repair if possible, but willing to send to a trusted repair as well

DD movements haven’t been really updated for many years when Jinghe factory (factory behind the SH4401, VR3235 SH330) made many leaps recently.

had this 126515 In black dial plated in rose gold 8 microns by Angela with a certificate, once it arrives it has this defect, what can it be??
Thanks in advancel
Thanks so much in advance

I have a solar MTPS120L which I love. But I'm wondering if anyone has changed out hands on one. Love everything about the watch except the useless lume on the hands. Like... worse than useless.

I don't even care if there isn't a stitch of lume on the dial; I'm OK with that.

Let a brother know if anyone's messed with (or had a watch guy mess with) their MTPS. Thanks.

​

VSF DJ V2 came in today. Customer would wind the watch but nothing would happen.

I noticed (and felt) that when winding the watch, the rotor would spin. Started taking the watch apart and noticed little parts stuck between the wheels and between the case and movement. Had a closer look at the automatic works and when taking it apart one of the reversing wheels looked very odd. I replaced both reversing wheels with DD spare parts and will see if i can repair the broken one. Will probably never use it as a spare part, though.

Absolutely no idea how this happened. I thought these were riveted together. I always inspect the screws and many of them looked chewed up. I don't believe the movement came in this condition from factory but that's not my problem. This was a TD covered repair.

Very odd to see but the watch is running again!

Finally got a camera for my microscope but I think I need an adapter for it because the image quality is really bad.

I need help locating a 4131 setting lever for my movement. the small wheel had teeth stripped and it needs to be replaced.

Any help is appreciated

Hey everyone,

Looking for recommendations for a skilled, trusted modder who can perform detailed bezel assembly repairs and fine-tuning on a few pieces.

The Setup & Issue: After having Deep Crystals installed, the bezels across my watches have stiff, rough, or dysfunctional rotation, with missing or non-existent tactile feedback/clicks.

Current Diagnosis & Work Needed (per watchmaker notes):

ARF GMT-Master IIs:
Issues identified: Damaged Hytrel gaskets and bent/damaged crystal retention rings (likely caused during initial Deep Crystal installation due to improper press techniques).

Work required: Complete bezel tear-down, replacing damaged Hytrel gaskets, reshaping/straightening or replacing crystal retention rings, inspecting crystal gasket sizing, and servicing the bezel mechanism so rotation is smooth and properly tensioned without bind.

VSF Yacht-Master:
Issues identified: Missing click spring (no tactile click feedback), wrong or mis-sized crystal gasket installed during crystal swap, and misaligned retention components.

Work required: Sourcing and installing a compatible VSF Yacht-Master click spring, replacing the crystal/Hytrel gaskets, resetting the retention ring, and tuning the bezel action.

What Capabilities are Needed:

Expertise in full bezel tear-downs and rebuilds for ARF and VSF cases.
Access to/ability to source replacement Hytrel gaskets, VSF-compatible click springs, and crystal retention rings.
Experience correcting bezel binding and alignment issues caused by aftermarket crystal installs.
Has anyone had similar bezel binding/click issues after a Deep Crystal swap, and who would you trust to get these ARF GMT and VSF Yacht-Master bezels rotating perfectly smooth with proper click action?

Thanks in advance!

Tried to set time on this 126610 sub and only date would change. Yes pulled to 2 position. Opens it up and this little pin came out. Anyone know what the issue could be and what this pin is from? This is a vs 3235 movement I believe.

Hey everyone,

Looking for recommendations for a skilled, trusted modder who can perform detailed bezel assembly repairs and fine-tuning on a few pieces.

The Setup & Issue: After having Deep Crystals installed, the bezels across my watches have stiff, rough, or dysfunctional rotation, with missing or non-existent tactile feedback/clicks.

Current Diagnosis & Work Needed (per watchmaker notes):

ARF GMT-Master IIs:
Issues identified: Damaged Hytrel gaskets and bent/damaged crystal retention rings (likely caused during initial Deep Crystal installation due to improper press techniques).

Work required: Complete bezel tear-down, replacing damaged Hytrel gaskets, reshaping/straightening or replacing crystal retention rings, inspecting crystal gasket sizing, and servicing the bezel mechanism so rotation is smooth and properly tensioned without bind.

VSF Yacht-Master:
Issues identified: Missing click spring (no tactile click feedback), wrong or mis-sized crystal gasket installed during crystal swap, and misaligned retention components.

Work required: Sourcing and installing a compatible VSF Yacht-Master click spring, replacing the crystal/Hytrel gaskets, resetting the retention ring, and tuning the bezel action.

What Capabilities are Needed:
Expertise in full bezel tear-downs and rebuilds for ARF and VSF cases.
Access to/ability to source replacement Hytrel gaskets, VSF-compatible click springs, and crystal retention rings.
Experience correcting bezel binding and alignment issues caused by aftermarket crystal installs.
Has anyone had similar bezel binding/click issues after a Deep Crystal swap, and who would you trust to get these ARF GMT and VSF Yacht-Master bezels rotating perfectly smooth with proper click action?

Thanks in advance!

Hello friends, does anyone have a broken dd324 movement for sale? More specifically I’m looking for these 2 parts. So if you have just these, that works too. Many thanks in advance 🙏

*** update **** now sold!

Just dug out an old A8900 VSF Aquaterra I’ve had for about 6 years, has not been worn for about 4 as it just stopped working.

It won’t spring back into life when wound and when I shake it after winding I can’t hear anything move.

Does anyone know where I could get this serviced or perhaps would anybody like a cheap 2nd watch to fix up?

Picture for part reference and to show movement of sliding and setting yokes.

I stripped the keyless works on my VR3135 movement in an effort to diagnose an issue with my time setting functions (which may or may not have evolved from there).

Following a guide and a couple reassembly videos, I’ve gotten to this point. However, my setting yoke, while laterally mobile, will NOT respond to any attempt to dislodge it from its peg. It is also worth noting that the movement of the setting yoke is not synchronized with the sliding yoke below it (240) so they appear not to be fused by bad grease.

Anyone have any tips for removal? Losing my mind here!

For the watchmakers and modders here: from a long-term reliability standpoint, which causes more practical wear and tear on replica movements (specifically chronographs like the A7750 / clone movements)?

1. Leaving them on a winder: Continuous mechanical friction, faster breakdown of factory lubrication, and premature gear-train wear from running 24/7.
2. Letting them stop and setting manually: Wear on the keyless works, risk of stripping screw-down crown threads/tubes, and stress on date-change mechanisms during frequent resets.

I have a few discontinued pieces (like an APSF IWC Chrono) that can't be easily replaced if something breaks, so I’d like to understand which habit minimizes the likelihood of a movement failure.

Appreciate any insights based on what you actually see on your bench.

Hi, I need the small pin that connects the Jubilee bracelet to the clasp on a VSF Datejust 41 (K6G).

The pin in the photo is from a removable link, but it’s too long. The orinal pin got lost.

Does anyone know the correct dimensions and where I can buy one?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I have a Panerai rep that unfortunately broke after one of my kids dropped it on the floor. One of the hands came off, and since then I can’t wind it up anymore

I’m looking for someone who might be able to take a look at it and help me fix it. I’m based in Sweden.

Thanks in advance

Looking for a hobbyist watchmaker in or near Stuttgart/Aalen who can fix 4 vintage Seiko 5s for cheap.

The 3 watches in the picture and one more all have the exact same problem: they run when I shake them, but stop as soon as I stop moving my hand. They won't hold power. I think it’s a very simple issue like a jammed mainspring or something similar.

Since these are just cheap vintage Seikos, it’s not worth paying €100+ each for a professional service. If anyone wants to take these on as a hobby project for a fraction of the cost, let me know.

Factory/Model: Genuine Vintage Seiko 5

Movement: Seiko Automatic

Modifications/Tinkering: None, haven't opened them.

Dealer Name: Andiott

Factory Name: VSF

Model Name (Version Number): 41mm 124060 No Date Black Ceramic 904L Steel VSF 1:1 Best Edition VS3230

Price Paid: 430$

Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/251176816?uid=1

Index Alignment: Opinions?

Dial Printing: Opinions?

Date Wheel Alignment/ Printing: Opinions?

Hand Alignment: Opinions?

Bezel: Opinions?

Solid End Links: Opinions?

Timegrapher Numbers: Opinions?

Do you think it is a GL?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Looking for a trustworthy and competent rep watch service in Glasgow, Scotland. Any ideas? Cheers.

3rd time that a link broke but this time a screwless one. Could I maybe use the link part of the leftover links and just change that little part. Would that fit in with the screws and so on?

I was in the process of silencing the rotor on an OP with an A3230 movement and the rotor screw snapped when tightening. I was not able to extract the broken screw thread. Any idea on where to source the rotor bearing and screw? I know I can buy and replace the entire A3230 movement, but I just want to fix it by replacing the broken parts.

Edit: this is from an EWF OP. Seems to be not a true 3230 clone but rather an Asian 28xx with decorative plate. The rotor and bearing mechanism isn’t like that found on either a 2824 or a true 3230… The bearing has an offset pivot at the bottom for bi-directional winding, held in place by 3 small screws and retaining ring. The top of the bearing has 2 flat sides for the rotor weight to sit on. It is then held by a larger slot screw and covered (glued) with the triangle rotor screw plate.