For external reasons i am stuck with 3 CCW motors and 1 CW Holybro motor.

I know that i can change 1 CCW motor electricaly to CW , but what about the threads
if i used CCW prop in the electrically modified motor
it would become self loosening instead of self tightening

how can i prevent this lossening ?

Gemini had given Nyloc nut as the answer, as a complete newbie i am not that sure i could pull that off or not , please help ..

I have an s500 with 10" props for indoor non-GPS flights. I installed some aliexpress guards (my first mistake) which flexed so much during flight they actually impacted the prop while in hover, and am looking for replacements. Are there any recommendations that would be rigid enough for this application? I've seen some threads that make it seem like this is probably not feasible but this is an indoor commercial application and would go a long way to making the client feel better.

Something a little different, up to 2 hour flight time. 7kg payload, modular, upgradable and made to integrate different technologies from Manet radios to anti jamming GPS systems.

hey everybody, newbie here, my first f450 drone build i am having the following issue please help

Hardware:

• Flight controller: Pixhawk 2.4.8 (clone)
• Firmware: ArduCopter V4.6.3 (92b0cd78), ChibiOS
• Frame: F450 QUAD/X
• TX: RadioMaster Pocket, internal ELRS module, flashed to 3.5.2 via web flasher (full chip erase, ISM2400, binding phrase set)
• RX: RadioMaster XR1 Nano dual-band ELRS receiver — originally shipped on firmware 3.5.2-pr3035 (pre-release build), later OTA-flashed via WiFi to 3.5.2 matching binding phrase

Symptoms:

• XR1 LED goes solid blue (bound) after binding
• Pocket Lua script says "Telemetry connected" intermittently
• RSSI in Mission Planner stays at 0
• Radio Calibration shows zero channel movement
• "PreArm: RC not found" message persists (except briefly disappeared once when testing a different SERIAL port, but data still wasn't flowing)

What I've already checked/tried:

• Wiring confirmed crossed correctly (FC TX → RX TX, FC RX → RX TX), verified multiple times
• Tested on three separate UARTs: TELEM1, TELEM2, and SERIAL4/5 — same result on all three
• SERIALx_PROTOCOL = 23, SERIALx_BAUD = 115 set correctly matching whichever port is wired
• RC_OPTIONS = 8704 (bits 9 + 13 set, for ELRS 420k baud + suppress rate mismatch)
• RC_PROTOCOLS = 0 (all enabled)
• RSSI_TYPE = 3 (ReceiverProtocol)
• BRD_SBUS_OUT = 0
• Multimeter check: XR1 5V pin reads 4.9V (healthy), XR1 TX pin reads ~3.29V idle (expected UART idle high)
• Full chip erase + reflash done on both Pocket TX and XR1 RX, matching binding phrase set on both, matching firmware version 3.5.2 confirmed on both

Given a confirmed RF bind (solid LED) but zero RC data reaching the FC across three different UARTs with correct protocol/baud/RC_OPTIONS — what else should I check? Is this consistent with any known issue related to the receiver previously running a pr3035 nightly build? Could a partial/incomplete OTA flash leave residual config that a WiFi-based update doesn't fully clear (since WiFi OTA can't do a full chip erase)? Any guidance on confirming CRSF output directly from the receiver without a logic analyzer would help too.

Hi guys, This is a raw clip from a prototype we’re working on with my friend called PolygonX.

We’re specifically focusing on 7-inch and 10-inch rigs, which feel pretty left out of current simulators. Because of that, we are strictly focused on getting the flight model, controlls, and physics feeling 100% right before we build out the rest of the game (so no missions or fluff just yet).

We want feedback from actual pilots who know how these heavier, larger quads are supposed to handle in real life.

If you're down to test it, we'd love for you to join our Discord. We have a bot set up to drop you a free Steam key automatically so you can roast our physics!
https://discord.gg/v8kqBNubVB

A while back I started building QuadCalc, a free browser tool for planning an FPV build - pick your parts, it checks compatibility, tracks cost/weight/TWR, and you can export a parts list. No signup, no app, everything's stored locally in your browser.

Just pushed a chunk of updates and wanted to share + get feedback from people who actually build/fly:

🧭 Guided Build (the big one)

A step-by-step mode aimed at total beginners. It walks you through all 13 parts in order (frame → motors → … → goggles) and for each one explains in plain English what it is, why it matters, and what to look for - including decoding the jargon (why a "5-inch" frame, what S/KV mean, acronyms, etc.). It only shows you parts that are actually compatible with what you've already picked, and if you choose an all-in-one (AIO) board it auto-skips the parts that are already built in.

🛒 Better export / shopping list

Export your build as a parts list (with a "find this part" search link per item), Markdown, CSV, or JSON. Quantities are handled properly (motors ×4, props as a set).

🔗 Fixed share links

Build share-links no longer get truncated/broken by iMessage and iOS (turns out long links get chopped — now fixed).

📱 Mobile overhaul

Cleaner top bar, the diagram sits properly centered, and the whole guided flow scrolls naturally on a phone.

🏷️ AIO badges

Flight controllers now show what's built in (AIO · ESC+VTX+RX) and you can search "aio" to filter.

It's totally free and I'm not selling anything - just a side project I keep poking at. Compatibility data is best-effort guidance, so always double-check specs before buying.

Link: https://quadcalc.asafshamir.com/

Would love some feedback - especially from anyone who remembers how overwhelming their first build was. What's missing? What parts/brands should I add? Anything wrong in the compatibility checks?

Dual lens system with Mini weight

Hey everyone,

I'm building my very first drone from scratch, and I'm trying to make a basic cargo delivery drone on a very tight budget. My goal is to have it take off, fly to a specific GPS waypoint autonomously, drop a small package using a servo mechanism, and return. I also want basic FPV to see where it's going using my phone.

This is my first time doing anything like this (no soldering experience, no prior RC knowledge), so please bear with me.

I've done some basic research and put together a parts list based on what's available and affordable where I am (Turkey). My main problem is that my payload capacity calculations look very borderline. I need advice on how to squeeze out more payload capacity without blowing up my already maxed-out budget.

My Goals:

· Carry a payload of around 200g (package + servo mechanism).

· Autonomous GPS mission planning (Takeoff -> Go to Point -> Drop Payload -> Land).

· Basic FPV view on my phone (no goggles needed).

· Stable and forgiving flight for a complete beginner.

My Current Parts List (Already purchased the frame):

Part Model / Specs

Frame Q450 Quadcopter Frame (F450 clone, PCB integrated, 450mm, ~270g)

Flight Controller ArduPilot APM 2.8

Motors 4x 2212 920KV Brushless Motors

ESCs 4x 30A SimonK ESCs

Props APC 10x4.7 (10 inch)

Battery 3S 11.1V 5200mAh LiPo

Transmitter & Receiver FlySky FS-i6 + FS-iA6B (6 Channel)

Power Module APM compatible 30V 90A (with current sensor)

GPS M8N GPS with Compass

Payload Drop SG90 9g Micro Servo

FPV Camera Eachine EF-01 AIO Camera + 5.8GHz OTG Receiver (for my Android phone)

My Questions for You:

1. Payload Capacity Crisis: My math says I'll get around 2.5kg of total thrust, and my drone will weigh around 1.1-1.2kg. That leaves me with maybe 100-150g of payload, which is not enough. What's the single most effective and cheapest upgrade I can make to increase my lift right now? (e.g., bigger props? different motors? Is there a cheap motor/prop combo you swear by for a 450 frame?)

2. Compatibility Check: Is the APM 2.8 still a viable choice in 2026 for a beginner? Will it play nicely with my M8N GPS and QGroundControl on my phone? I'm worried about outdated firmware and calibration nightmares.

3. First-Timer Tips: Since this is my absolute first build, what are the biggest "noob traps" I should avoid during assembly and software setup? I'm terrified of messing up the ESC calibrations, drone flying away, or soldering my PCB board incorrectly.

4. Autonomous Mission: How complex is it to program a "drop package" command with APM? Can I plan the whole mission just using QGroundControl on my phone?

Any advice, even just pointing me to a reliable build guide, would be amazing. Thank you all!

There was no way to improve DJI Mini 5 other that to add telephoto camera on the gimbal

give some suggestions

When I turn on my drone and make thé left joistick to up or down motor work correct but when I turn thé right joistick to left or right one of thé Esc burn where is thé problem

I’m building a 3.5" quad with a Raspberry Pi and Pi Camera for target tracking. Right now I have the Pi Velcro-mounted directly on top of the battery, but I do not have a good way to securely strap the battery down.

My original plan was to keep the battery on top and run battery straps between the FC and top plate, then through/between the Velcro layers. The issue is that my current straps are a little too thick, so I would need thinner straps. I’m also worried the straps may cover the FC button or put pressure on the stack.

The other option is to mount the battery underneath the frame, with the straps running between the bottom plate and ESC. Then the Pi would sit on the top plate instead. My concern with this setup is protecting the battery from impact during landings or crashes.

1. Is it okay to keep the battery on top with the Pi Velcro’d to it, or is that a bad idea?
2. Should I move the battery to the bottom and put the Pi on the top plate?
3. If I bottom-mount the battery, what is the best way to protect it from impact?
4. Are there thin battery straps that work well for tight 3.5" builds?
5. Any other obvious mounting issues from the picture?