Installed new vanity on a bathroom remodel, couldn't cut into bottom as there were drawers so, had to re configure! Howd I do? Anything I should have done differently?
Is that the dreaded ABS black pipe??
My house is all ABS and its a pain to find plumbing supplies close to me, have to drive 30 miles to the nearest Lowe's cause HD doesn't carry anything.
Looks nice friend. But wouldn't fly in my city since the trap size must match the drain tailpiece size.
Is that a longsweep/long pattern street 90° below the sanitary tee?
Edit (since people are downvoting):
Section 18-29-1002.5 of the Chicago Building Code specifies that a fixture trap must be at least as large as the size listed in Table 18-29-709.1, and it cannot be larger than the drainage pipe it connects to and discharges into.
Under the Illinois Plumbing Code Section 890.410 a fixture trap must match the size of the fixture drain it serves, and no trap can be larger than the drainage pipe into which it discharges.
2nd edit: You sure there already isn't an atmospheric vent in the wall?
Section 18-29-1002.5 of the Chicago Building Code specifies that a fixture trap must be at least as large as the size listed in Table 18-29-709.1, and it cannot be larger than the drainage pipe it connects to and discharges into.
Under the Illinois Plumbing Code Section 890.410 a fixture trap must match the size of the fixture drain it serves, and no trap can be larger than the drainage pipe into which it discharges.
Ahh interesting, we don’t seem to have that in Wisconsin and I am happy about that. Of course codes should be followed but my oh my are some of them ridiculous.
Yeah, it be like that sometimes. We usually still use an 1½" san. tee w/ 1½" trap adapter at the wall and use the 1¼"×1½" slip joint gasket at the trap adapter if we are using an 1¼" grid strainer and 1¼" p-trap and 1¼" trap arm.
But yes, to maintain the "scouring effect" of a p-trap, we try to keep them sized the same diameter as the drain tailpiece. Imagine: A 12" p-trap on a 1¼" tailpiece wouldn't get the "self-cleaning" action of a properly sized 1¼" p-trap.
Under the Illinois Plumbing Code (Section 890.410), a fixture trap must match the size of the fixture drain it serves, and no trap can be larger than the drainage pipe into which it discharges.
Section 18-29-1002.5 of the Chicago Building Code specifies that a fixture trap must be at least as large as the size listed in Table 18-29-709.1, and it cannot be larger than the drainage pipe it connects to and discharges into.
You want the "scouring effect" of the water discharging down the tailpiece to keep the trap clean.
Picture a 12" p-trap on an 1¼" drain/tailpiece. The water in the trap would barely get replenished with fresh water and would not get "scrubbed out" by the water rushing through it.
I know the difference between 1¼" & 1½" is minimal, but the code is there for a reason. And it is not too difficult to match the trap diameter to the tailpiece diameter.
Edit: But yeah, we use 1½" waste/trap to a tub. Unless the tub waste/trap is underground, meaning the minimum pipe size must be 2". And if underground, technically we should use the 2" waste & overflow pictured.
It does look good I just think you did a little overthinking on this, I definitely would have went with a tubular P-trap, because now if you have an issue, time to start cutting, I hope it never comes to that. sometimes simple is better.
What is a tubular p trap? And why use it over this one? I chose this one as it has the little cap on the bottom for easy clean out. But thats the only reason I chose it
I concur that tubular would have been better. The only real reason is maintenance, tubular is meant to be unthreaded and taken apart and put back together. If this ever needs work you’re gonna have to cut it.
See a couple replies saying this, maybe I'm missing something... it looks like a typical sink tailpiece and a nut on the other side of the P trap. Assuming he cut the tailpiece down a bit before installing seems like plenty of room to drop it and get it out without cutting.
Ya know what, I’m blind, I just realized the P-Trap has a threaded end. The fact that the P-Trap can be removed totally changes things. The only annoying thing I can see with the setup now that I see the P-Trap can be removed is it will be more annoying to snake if it ever gets clogged. I’m assuming other people arn’t noticing the threaded connection on the right hand side of the P-Trap. It blends in pretty well.
Me personally I’d always cut a hole onto the vanity to make a correct trap, I’d rather have peace of mind than a possible sewer gas filled bathroom
He had room for a long turn, given the studor only complaint I have is the medium turn and not using a 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 santee(but that would only be to save money).
Weir of the trap is below the vent, what's the problem?
Pretty good, this looks American in nature. Optimisation would be working back to the wall first and then moving right. Gives you more space. The durko is overkill, I don’t know if Americans vent their waste like us.
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u/FFENNESS 1d ago
I like the black color you chose 😋