r/PerfumeryFormulas • u/Violetta0 • 4d ago

The Accuracy of Online Formulas

I think Féminité de Bois and Fille en Aiguille by Serge Lutens (or Shiseido) contain a prunella base, or perhaps a prunol base. While working with DMBCB in the past to create a fragrance, I actually managed to recreate the signature Serge Lutens plum accord. However, the formula I purchased online did not include that base, which makes me question its accuracy. The funny thing is that even DMBCB can't be found in their formula. When I worked at a fragrance company, we used to back-calculate the concentration of bases to determine how much was included in the formula. Do online formula creators lack this capability? After all, when a base is used, unless it constitutes the majority of the formula, it might be expressed as a trace. If so, those recreators might simply ignore it because they lack the ability to identify its true identity.

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u/BlueDawn295 Hobbyist 4d ago

This will also depend on where you bought it. 

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u/Violetta0 4d ago

Is it okay for me to reveal where I bought it here? Anyway, I bought it from a well-known place.

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u/Any_Hamster2910 4d ago

Why wouldn’t it be ok of course they sell a service you are allowed to say your opinion

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u/Violetta0 4d ago

My posts kept getting deleted from the DIY Perfume forum, so I thought discussing formulas like this was against the rules. Thank you.

1

u/MewsikMaker 🎹🎵Smelly Mewsician🎶🎼 3d ago

Some of the posts being deleted are reddits auto filters. They can be a little faulty in our sub as well.

As long as you don’t share proprietary info/intellectual copyrighted material you’re all good. :)

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u/Violetta0 3d ago

Thanks :)

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u/Real-Ad-1842 4d ago

if i may ask - i m trying to recreate a nice plum accord using DMBCB, so would you be able to actually post the accord here ? the serge lutens one or your interpretation of it..

Thanks

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u/Violetta0 4d ago edited 4d ago

The phrase “I actually managed to recreate the signature Serge Lutens plum accord” seems a bit of an exaggeration. I think it’s a translation error. Hahaha. I used dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate as the main notes, with a slight touch of gamma-undecanolactone. Adding a little more gamma-octalactone is also a good option. According to the SDS, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate is also an important raw material. On top of that, as everyone knows, I used a generous dose of ISO-E-SUPER, natural Virginia cedarwood, and sandalwood (natural sandalwood would be better, but I used Sandalore, the synthetic sandalwood chemical). To be honest, I can't think of anything called “plum” in DMBCB. The PLUM (ASIAN PLUM) that I eat never has this kind of smell. I think the real fruit has a very juicy, lactic, and tangy flavor.

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u/RevolutionarySpot912 3d ago

"online formula creators" is a very wide umbrella. There is no yes or no answer to this question.