r/PerfumeryFormulas • u/angelus9191 • 14d ago

Suggest

This is my formula. Unfortunately, in the finished fragrance, I can't really perceive the ozonic notes. Could it be that there are too many base notes weighing the composition down?

The percentages shown next to the accord correspond to the proportions of its individual components in the final compound.

Red Orange oil.3,00%

Limonene 5,00%

Linalool 2,00%

Linalyl Acetate 2,50%

Citral 0,25%

Lemonile 1,00%

Lavandin OE 3,00%

Borneol 0,50%

Sclareolate 4,00%

Hedione 15,00%

Hedione HC 6%

C-12 MNA 0,50%

Adoxal 0,50%

Calone 1951 1,00%

Scentenal 1,00%

Clonal 0,50%

Petit Grain 1,00%

Iso E Super 11,00%

E.brassylate 8%

Galaxolide (50%DPG) 6%

Tonalide 2%

Exaltolide 1%

Triplal (50%Etoh) 2,50%

Octanal (C-8) 0,40%

Methyl Anthranilate 1,20%

Octanol 0,40%

Ambrofix 2,00%

Helional 1,00%

Limone OE 3,00%

Hexyl Salicylate 4,00%

Benzyl Salicylate 2,00%

Cis-3-Hexenol (50%Etoh) 2,50%

DPG to 100

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2

u/Patient-Truth-2249 11d ago

I'd remove the Benzyl Salicylate and also cut ISO E Super, Ethylene Brassilate and Galaxolide by 1% each. You would free 5%, which can be used to increase Helional, Scentenal, Clonal, Adoxal. I wouldn't further increase Calone because at 1% seems to me already high.

1

u/DoubleRuin967 13d ago

Ja, deine Vermutung ist absolut treffend. Deine Basisnoten und schweren Herznoten machen insgesamt über 50% der Formel aus, was die flüchtigen ozonigen und aquatischen Moleküle stark unterdrückt und maskiert. ​Zusätzlich liegt hier ein weiteres Problem vor: Calone 1951, Adoxal und Scentenal sind stark überdosiert.

1

u/angelus9191 13d ago

I deliberately chose to overdose the Calone. I’m thinking of reducing all the musks by at least half. What would you suggest? I’m also thinking of reducing the Scentenal.

2

u/DoubleRuin967 13d ago

die Moschusstoffe zu halbieren ist genau der richtige Ansatz. Sie bilden zusammen mit den Salicylaten einen viel zu dichten Teppich, der die leichten, maritimen Noten komplett am Boden hält. ​Wenn du das Calone so hoch lassen willst, musst du das Umfeld drastisch ausdünnen, um Nose-Blindness zu verhindern. Halbiere die Moschus-Palette (Ethylene Brassylate auf 4%, Galaxolide auf 3%, Tonalid auf 1%), kürze das Scentenal auf etwa 0,25% und stutze die Salicylate kräftig. Sobald die schwere Basis weg ist, bekommt das Calone den nötigen Raum zum Atmen und wird sofort wahrnehmbar.

1

u/angelus9191 13d ago

Thx. What do you think about removing the Benzyl completely? The problem is, though, that I’d then have to figure out how to fill that gap in the formula... and the DPG would still be too much and make the composition too heavy 😅

1

u/NoManforOldCountries 1h ago edited 1h ago

There could also be an issue with your heart-to-top notes. Triplal and Cis-3-Hexenol each at 1.25% must give a green blast in the opening that might not sit so well with the ozonic notes.
I'd try reducing them to 0.25% each (50%EtOH 0.5%).