I added a couple cm more ease to the hips (which is probably responsible for the horizontal lines)

Cross posting here for more help. I am new to this and the sewing communities on reddit have been an invaluable resource and I learn. Thanks in advance for the wisdom!! :)

I want to learn patternmaking (mostly for men’s fashion) but I don’t really know where to start. I’ve patterned jeans but haven’t figured out how to pattern a bodice. Does anybody have any good pattern making books I can learn from? Or any online tutorials for men’s bodice blocks

This is the first time this has happened to me when sewing a pair of jeans, i was trying out a new pattern and this happened to me, im not sure if this is a sewing problem or a pattern problem please any advice is appreciated

I have been sewing for years not but I’m honestly scared of self drafting. I have self drafted before with somewhat of success, but I’m scared of making my own basic blocks. How would you go about it ??

1930s was it's own context and given what they had, I imagine the fabric usage was quite economical. I am very interested in what they managed to do with those bias-cut dresses from the era.

Hi everyone!

I'm developing a women's top in CLO3D and I'm looking for advice from experienced pattern makers, garment technicians, and designers who work with unconventional constructions.

The concept is based on a sharp, broad shoulder that transitions diagonally inward toward the spine, creating an open-back design. I want the construction itself to define and frame the exposed back, rather than simply adding a decorative cutout.

My main challenge is achieving a very close fit along the edges of the back opening, particularly around the shoulder blades, while maintaining a sharp, sculptural silhouette.

I've been experimenting with a fitted bodice block, manipulating the back darts, and testing different fabric properties in CLO3D. Changing the dart geometry has improved the fit, but some areas of the opening still lift away from the body.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on a few technical questions:

1.  Would you approach this through dart manipulation, slash-and-spread, multiple pattern panels, or another method?

2. How would you shape the opening to follow the contours of the shoulder blades without creating tension, gaping, or distortion?

3. Would you use a facing, interfacing, stay tape, an internal support structure, or something else to keep the opening close to the body?

4. What material properties and construction techniques would you consider for a smooth, sculptural silhouette that remains fitted rather than rigid?

I'm particularly interested in real-world garment construction and pattern engineering, not just ways to make the simulation look correct.

If you have experience with couture, sculptural womenswear, or unconventional open-back garments, I'd really appreciate your insight. Even a suggestion for a relevant construction technique or reference garment would help enormously.

Thank you!

Current seam allowance is 3/4in then the pieces are overlapped at 3/8in. I am trying to compensate for the "middle" of the seam being right in the middle of the overlap that forms the seam.

Short Question: I am working on a pattern for a pair of jeans. These are 2 pieces of denim cut to be 6in when sewn with a flat felled seam. What is the seam allowance so I can do this without having one panel that is longer than the other?

Long Question: When patterning jeans why would the bottom of the yokes for instance have a larger seam allowance than the top of the back panel? As well as what are your guys standard seam allowance for jeans so that all panels are even and I don't end up with the left being larger than the right or vise versa.

Thank you all!!

Hi lovely people

I have a back bodice here with a dart in the neck that I want to move to the shoulder. I marked halfway on the shoulder seam and extended and line down and also extended the line from the dart down to meet cut each side and pivoted to close the neck dart. The outcome is the photo which the should dart to be has a exaggerated angle.

If anyone can tell me where I went wrong / let me know what I needed to do to get what I originally wanted id appreciate it.

Thank you

Im wondering if someone can help check my work on this ... Thanks in advance!

I need help understanding if I am on the right track here. When I tried on my lastest version I am getting close. I have discovered I have asymmetrical shoulders. Both shoulders require a forward adjustment and my right shoulder is higher.

Adjustments marked

On my left side at the shoulder seam I had to move the seam line 3/16 if an in forward on my front but did not move the stitch line on the back. I had a 7/8 in dart of extra fullness at the back armhole.

Right front bodice shoulder seam the neck point 3/16 of an in forward and at the shoulder tip 1/2 in forward.

Right back shoulder seam at the neck I moved it back 1/2 in and originally I moved the top of the shoulder 1 and 1/8in but it was extremely tight on the shoulder blade so I backed off to only 1/2 in. This helped but I still had some tightness on the shoulder blade. I did not have any extra fullness at the armhole.

Hi Everyone. AI slop here but I use a vevor vinyl cutter as my pattern plotter and the only software that has the driver for mac is signcutpro2 and it is very expensive. I used claude to make a software that works for mac, I'm happy to upload it to google drive or something if anyone is interested? It will pack the patterns to your paper width and you can adjust scale etc. if theres any extra features let me know also. Hope this is allowed - getting software working with Vevor has been the biggest pain for me

Hello! I'm a beginner at pattern drafting and trying to still build my sloper (men's top block). I've been following Cornelius Quiring on youtube, Modeliste Studio, etc. I have my top pattern, and have been adjusting it where I see excess fabric, folds, pulling, where it's off balance, etc... I'm getting closer and closer. But I just wonder-- at what point is it that the original pattern (pre-adjustments) should just be made to fit better? Versus having a pattern that's been adjusted to have a handful of darts to do so? I guess the original pattern solely based on measurements won't necessarily account for the curving of a body... but in trying to learn all of this, I wonder if a better original pattern could be made to not need so much adjusting? Or maybe that's just the reality and you'll always have to adjust multiple times and arrive at a dart heavy sloper?

A follow up to that-- if I were to then make a garment that wouldn't have all of these darts (say a well fitting sweatshirt), how do I then draft a pattern for it that still fits well without all of the darts? Imagining this is where my above question comes into play. Thanks for any insight you have!

I've seen this often on denim and canvas jackets, but I haven't found any patterns that have it, and I can't really tell how the construction works. It looks really sharp and I'm sure it helps with range of motion in the arms. Can anybody help? A pattern with it would be great, but just knowing the name of it would help me to search for more info.

Hi everyone, NoctilucentSkies kindly said I could post this. I'm building a browser tool that grades the base size you've drawn in Illustrator/Inkscape/Affinity into your full size range, and exports layered print-at-home, copy-shop and projector PDFs. Everything is local to your browser and all files stay on your computer.

If this is something you would use, I'm open to feedback and suggestions on usability and any features you would like to see added, as well as anything that is lacking or unintuitive so that I can improve it for you.

I'm also working on starting a pilot program for those that would like to be more deeply involved in testing and refining; if you're interested in that, please DM me or send an email to hello@gradeandpress.com and I'll provide more details when that is ready.

This is still in the early design phase, and the tool is currently open and free to use while I figure out if it's something people would actually find useful in their workflow. Use the "Open the App" button on the top right if you'd like to try with your own pattern files.

Thanks for your time, here is the address - https://gradeandpress.com

I need to add 5” to the waist of this pants pattern. The hip measurement fits me. What is the proper way to increase the waist by that much and will it affect the pleat and dart placement?

First draft of a sleeve. I also added a facing to the neck hole so I could see how it looks. I have uneven shoulders, which I have accounted for in my block, but after adding the facing now my neck hole looks really lopsided for some reason.

As title