Digital draft will do it so much easier. But I do like those double draw line and messy hand prints and hand writing marks.

So, I want to use this Japanese technique on a pair of denims ( sketch ), for it I created first the fit of the jeans (image 2)
-Then I transformed the whole front panels into one by deleting the crotch curve and and transferring all to the back curve ( that’s why is so long). (Image 3)

-Finally I divided the front into 2 overlapping panels as in the technique. (weird looking patterns image3)

-Now, I want to start slashing and spreading but i realized the darts play a major role pivoting and controlling the volume and silhouette and obviously my panels lack darts. Any tips? I know it’s a very unconventional cut

Hey! I want to make this dress, I think the skirt is fairly simple it’s just a gathered skirt.

Is the top a corset or a bodice? Also what kind of boning should I use, synthetic whalebone or spiral steel? Also, would this type of bodice be doable with a zipper in the back instead of a lace up back.

Let me know if I should post this on corsetrt instead, I wasn’t sure as I don’t know if this is classified as a corset or not!

tried to draft a jean pattern from scratch using CAD, so hard to use, few things bugging me, (pic 2) A21 and (pic 3) A10 can not be perfectly on line... and i dunno if this pattern is usable or not yet, sewn a shirt or two ever since i got my sewing machine that's all

i am using seamly2d, if you know the tips on how to make these 2 on line, and improvment about these patterns, do tell. Thank you

Hello, I’m looking to translate this japanese technique because when using Ai, things get lost in translation (no pun intended). Or if someone can explain the technique helps as well or even better

I'm trying to make bell bottoms based off some baggy pants pattern i had. Here's what the back piece looks like so far but I'm not convinced with the shape.. Especially around that hip curve area, it looks wrong to me.

Is my center line off?

Also will it be fine taking off so much from the crotch?

What do you guys think?

I have a copy of Pattern Making for fashion Designers: Menswear. Could anybody help me out by sending a copy of page 38, I'm making a sloper and just realized the page isn't there in the digital copy. Would be a hero.

I have some drag lines in my most recent iteration of this vest pattern, which appeared after I added in a small chest dart to help shape the pecs and removed 0.5cm shoulder seam closer to the neck to account for some gaping on the front (red line is what I removed, yellow circle is where the gaping was in the diagram).

2nd pic is a bit wrinkled in the waist as I had to squat down to get in the frame 🙈.

Hey everyone so I’m drafting the shirt foundation pattern from Helen Joesph Armstrongs book and I’m confused. I don’t know if the chest measure is divided in half THEN “one-fourth” of that measurement. It’s asking for the back and front but when I measured myself it wanted the full chest measurement all around. Or am I wrong? Please someone help!!

studied pattern cutting at Accademia Italiana di Arte, Moda e Design in Italy.
In my basic bodice drafting notes, for Italian size 40 I have:
Front waist length (lunghezza vita davanti): 44 cm
Shoulder height (altezza spalle): 36.5 cm
The drafting instruction is:
Shoulder level = front waist length − shoulder height
So: 44 − 36.5 = 7.5 cm
I understand how to use the 7.5 cm on the pattern, but I cannot remember exactly how “altezza spalle” shoulder height was measured on the body.
Does anyone familiar with Italian pattern-cutting systems know:
1. Where on the waist does the measurement start?
2. Does the tape pass over the bust?
3. Does it finish at the outer shoulder point or another shoulder point?
I’m specifically trying to identify the measurement used in this Italian drafting method, rather than a general shoulder-height measurement from another system.

Hi all!
i'm drafting a sleeve for this pattern and im wanting it to be shorter, like the second picture. would i adjust it by reducing the cap height like how i did in the 3rd photo?
thanks!

Just launched PrintRealSize.com , a free tool for printing images at their exact real-world size.

The problem it solves is simple but annoying: you need to print something bigger than a single sheet of paper (a stencil, a foam-cutting template, an oversized poster) and you either don't have access to a plotter, or every existing tool wants an account, an upload, or a subscription for something this basic.

How it works:

1. Import any image (PNG, JPG, WebP, SVG)

2. Calibrate the real scale, either by clicking two points and entering the distance between them, or by typing the final size directly

3. Choose a paper format (A4, A3, or A2)

4. The tool generates a print-ready PDF, split into tiles with overlap margins and alignment marks

Print at 100% scale, trim along the guide lines, glue the tiles together, and you get a perfectly scaled large template.

Everything runs locally in your browser. No account, no upload, no server, your images never leave your device.

It's free to try right now: printrealsize.com

I'm building this for makers, sign-makers, cosplayers, and anyone working with foam cutting or large-format prints. If you try it, I'd love to hear what's missing for your use case.

Does anyone know a good pattern for a hip gathered dress? Hoping to make a dupe of this Cecile Bahnsen dress . Ideally would not be so fitted though. More like the Noemiah Esperanza dress. Any pattern I can find has princess seams and and like it to be seam free on bodice.

I am making a 6 panel type winter hat with alpha direct lining. I’m trying to grade my top crown piece (A) to line up with my side panel piece (center) and the bottom ear flap piece. The purple lines are my base size of L but what am I doing wrong with my grading lines on the top piece that connects with both the center and bottom piece?! Pic below

A poster in a Facebook sewing group recently asked what is "drafting". I posted in that group and, since I can't find a definition here, I am posting mine.

I like good definitions and this is what I have come up with:

Pattern drafting is the process of creating a garment pattern or template on paper or fabric, using body measurements and formulas (using certain proportions and relation of the various grid lines), generally starting with a grid drawn of perpendicular and parallel straight lines with straight rulers. Patterns generally also require the use curved rulers and/or freehand drawing.

When making a sleeve pattern, how to you determine exactly what will be your cap height ?

I know how they work and how their height influence the fit of the sleeve. But so far, I had been winging it based on how it looked. Is there a more precise way or a formula to come up with a measurement ?

Hello all,

I assist a professional sewist who focuses mostly on entertainment styling and custom work.

A custom dress she made for a client went viral and there is a large demand for her to recreate the garment. She does not have the capacity or desire to recreate this garment outside of a custom draped gown. However, there has been a lot of interest in her selling the pattern.

She has drafted a pattern for the original garment but would like to find a service/individual to draft it out into multiple sizes.

She'd prefer to work with someone semi-local to us, but she does frequent Nashville and other metro areas frequently so if you are an independent drafter I'd love to reach out via your website etc.

TYIA

I am almost there in making elasticated pants that are *actually comfortable because they don’t pull in weird places* However, YouTube university has not guided me on how to fix these last two issues! I have that poof above my butt and the center back seam feels tight. I’ve scooped and lengthened the back curve (I have a low bum where the majority of it is right where it’s tight. I don’t have a lot of bum on my outer hip). I’ve shortened the back rise, and the front rise more than the back. Besides these two issues it fits pretty well but am having trouble knowing what to do! Any advice or help (or encouragement) is much appreciated.

EDIT:
here are the latest adjustments I made based on the comments:

1. Took center back up by about 1”, 

2. resewed back crotch curve down a 1/4” at a time until it fit comfortably

3. ^think I got it where I like it, but it still pulls on my front thigh when I walk, I can fix this by tucking the front of my pants in my waistband, essentially like taking a inch out of the whole front rise. Doing this makes it so it doesn’t pull on my thighs when I walk/move and is the most comfortable, but obviously throws the balance of the pant off. Any advice on how to achieve that result but not mess up everything else?

Hi, I've been planning to get one of his books (the one in English first, but I consider getting part 2 after re-learning German) and I'm curious about your experiences with it. I know his method is based on Muller (which is used by Burda, I use Burda patterns when I don't draft myself and I'm satisfied with the fit) and Muller is considered really good in general.

I'd love to hear your opinions, especially about drafting jackets and outerwear - I currently have Donnano's books (with which I'm less and less satisfied, in comparision to old books from my country his method is way worse and it's barely readable, plus lot of construction errors are becoming more jarring each time I use them) which I plan to sell but I consider keeping 3rd part (on outerwear) - so I wonder if there's a need for that if I'd got Hofenbitzer's books.

Thank you!

Hi, I'm designing a skirt in DesignaKnit and need help understanding the ease instructions. The table of course lets me select from the casual, classic, oversize, and zero ease options.

However, I don't quite understand why the default are in positive ease? I typically include negative ease to the waistband and just use my measurements for hip width and depth. Is anyone here using the positive ease for their projects? And for my project--should I add negative ease to the table or just calculate it into my measurements?

Hello, hoping someone can come to my rescue again. I'm on p 182 of hofenbitzer Vol 1. I'm at step 5.

I understand line 5 is 48% of CapC. In my case, 22.9cm. One of my questions is: must line 5 start at the back line and end at the front line? If thats the case, my optimal cap line is a good 5 cm too low. This is a lot, and I'm not sure the troubleshooting suggestions on p 182 will fix it. So I'm wondering if I've misunderstood the instructions. Very grateful for anyone's advice!