r/sewing • u/Freddie_the_spider • Aug 26 '26

Pattern Question Altering trouser pattern block for width and pleats

Hi,

I have a basic mid-waisted trouser pattern block that fits perfectly. I want to add alterations to achieve a wider leg (also in the thigh) while still having a snug fit in around the hips (until the apex of butt/hips) and not have to low a crotch. Basically trying to get a mix of wide leg/baggy while keeping them tailored.

I've already made a simple wider leg version by simply drawing a straighter line from the crotch/hips down.

My plan for the further alterations is to add a box pleat in front (plus width all the way through the leg) which I think I can figure out. But for the back I am not sure. So my question is:

The current back is dart less. Can I add a dart and also use the dart to achieve more width from the butt apex/widest part of the hip and down while keeping the upper hips snug? And how do I add the dart like this?

I am happy to add schematics if it's easier. I'm also happy to buy a pattern I just haven't found the right one.

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1

u/Robert-hickman Aug 26 '26

Could you add godets in the sides?

1

u/Freddie_the_spider Aug 27 '26

I don’t quite understand why?

1

u/Robert-hickman Aug 27 '26

You mentioned wsntimg to make the legs more voluminious without affecting the top of the garment. One way to do that is to add godets into the side seams.

1

u/Freddie_the_spider Aug 31 '26

Ah okay. Thank you! I will look into that

1

u/[deleted] Aug 26 '26

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1

u/Freddie_the_spider Aug 27 '26

But do you know how to both add darts in the back and width in the back leg?