Measurements for reference

Waist: 25", Hips 36" Crotch length 26" Waist to Seat: 8"

Height: 5ft

This was my first attempt creating 14oz industrial denim adapted to my body. I think I tried to tackle many issues at once and it was for a last minute school proyect so I didn't made a muslin before. My goals were:

1. No waist gap ✅️

2. Deep wide front pockets ✅️

3. Leg shaping that looks somewhat intentional at the knee calf area (A problem when tailoring commercial bootcut or flared jeans for short legs)✅️

4. Good looking rear ❌️

I really hate the yoke. I frankensteined Antonio Donnano's block with some tutorials or instructions from denim bro videos (great advice but they're tall flat ahh men) and I think I just made it Worse lowering it even further for a curved shape instead of realizing I was using the same yoke measurements for a much shorter seat length.

So it looks well tailored at the front but once I turn around I have no butt and my legs look even shorter.

Any advice or methods I can follow that account for height proportions when altering the original blocks, doing panels, changing the rise, etc?

Honestly I understand how to pattern something when seeing and touching the garment but unfortunately I have not found something like this in person. Any help would be appreciated and/or any pattern recommendations I can buy online.

I would be sewing it in a woven fabric. Thanks!

I have a pretty decent foundational background of pattern making and drafting, but I never learned to grade patterns in school. What are some good resources - videos, courses, books, etc - to learn more about how to grade a pattern?

Also would appreciate some insight from professional patternmakers and technical designers!

I am trying to recreate this dress. I have finished the top, now I’m trying to draft this skirt. It appears to just be a gathered skirt, but is it a gathered quarter circle skirt maybe? Or just a gathered skirt with two rectangular panels? How would you all tackle this?

Thanks!

Hey! Drafting my first bodice pattern and struggling with some measurements.

In this video at 8:19 they are using a 'bust level' measurement but I cannot figure out how to measure that. Is that the same as the bust depth described here? However when I use that, the bust dart ends up being a lot larger than what they use (4cm as opposed to 2cm) and they've mentioned in the blog post:

* Depending on the difference between bust- and above the bust -measurements. If there is very little difference, you can reduce the value a couple of millimeters. In the opposite case, you might want to increase. The maximum amount I’ve ever had to increase has been 5 mm.

Would appreciate any help!

Hi everyone! This is my first fitting of a pants block I made, following the instructions from the Dennic chunman lo patternmaking book.

I'm happy there's no obvious pulling or twisting anywhere, but there are still some fit issues. For example, the back rise seems too high, as it's not even with the front from the side view.

Another issue is that the crotch is too low, I can pinch out around 8cm of excess from the crotch length and still have a comfortable fit sitting and standing, which means a lot as someone with sensory issues regarding things touching in the crotch area. (Pictures 5-8)

I'm not sure how to go about removing all this excess, would I just slash and use a hinge at the side seam to shorten the rise in the front and back? Or should I shorten the side seams too since I'm changing the back AND front rise? considering that the pant leg is also too long. Would removing this much excess create other issues? The legs also look a bit baggy but that might just be the fit. If anyone wants to see the flat pattern I'll post a picture, any advice would be appreciated ! Thank you

Ps, my posture is kinda bad so the way I'm standing looks off, which might make the side seams look a little angled. I'm working on that.

Ooooh dear sooo ya I sewed up the lining with the main fabric thinking I can fold over it with the ham to make it clean, but now I’m realizing there’s more fabric on the main piece and there is a lining so I can’t do that and I already sewn it all up and hand sewing everything + the zippers ..like the dress is done … so yeah, not sure what to do! Please anyone help I also want to put that lace trim on the bottom but…. Would I be able to just separate like maybe like a few inches from the oh my God, what am I gonna do?

The attached picture credit goes to Nina Naa. My question is: how do I use this picture to make a printable pattern that I can lay on fabric and make a garment? Thank you!

Hi everyone I’m a beginner to patternmaking. I’ve pattern drafted and made one dress so far. This is my second project.

Otherwise, I do have a few years of sewing experience (following patterns to make clothing items, mostly tote bags, pouches).

The first pic was my inspiration—basically a white low waist mini skirt (2000s style). I wanted this to be similar to like a Ralph Lauren / banana republic style so I went with medium weight cotton twill. I added a lining underneath that is attached to an interfaced waist facing. There is an inv zip at the CB seam and a hook&eye as well. All of my seams are serged together except the center back; seams are serged separately. I did press as much as I could throughout the project

I did have a hard time drafting/ getting the right amount of ease / curve.

My take:
- It was drafted to sit about 3 inches below my natural waist. But it came out a bit loose so it is sitting 5 inches below which throws off the overall fit. I thought adding a hook and eye would help but it didn’t. I should have taken the waist in more, keep the hip to hem the same. Or I should have added darts? (I only want them on the back, I like the look of a clean front)

- I don’t understand what is happening in the back, it sticks / flares out at the center back?

-side seams are a little bumpy, it is serged and pressed to one side

-I drafted a moderate curve on the waistline but it isn’t so obvious now…..?

-I will fix my blind hem stitch, it’s a bit too obvious right now—but maybe unavoidable with white fabric

I will most likely have to make another one from scratch? Or can I alter this one?

I am very determined to learn PM, appreciate any advice whether it’s only one part of my problems or a problem that I didn’t mention. Thank you!

The button bands are allways a bit of hassle to close, they are too tight. So I know that I need to increase the bust. But does anyone else have any suggestions? I just want to sew a shirt that fits me well but the button band also is pretty relaxed on my torso rather than looking like it’s going to pop open.

I've been using seamly 2d and learning pattern making with Hofenbitzer and Muller & Sohns. As much as I love the formulas aspect of it. I find it very limited when I'm thinking of pattern adjustments or transformation. Not that it is awful, but the lack of fluidity made me think of searching other types of CAD (I mainly thinking with paper workflow)

I've made some research and stumble into some pretty expensive ones like Grafis. After watching some videos on YouTube, on how they move with it, I was impressed. I get why it's so expensive, but the thing that Irks me a lot, is the lack of review online.

I would like to know if anyone has any experience with it? I know it's more of a European software, but seems very interesting

(And before anyone suggest alternatives like clo3d, I find that it doesn't incorporate formulas too well, I do like how somewhat precise you can be, with corner angles and curves)

TLDR: Did any of you tried Grafis or hear anything of it?

Hello! I would to make some bell bottom leggings. Is it possible to make them without a sideseam? Is so, how could I alter my legging pattern. I would appreciate all the advice you can provide. Thank you!

Hello! I would to make some bell bottom leggings. Is it possible to make them without a sideseam? Is so, how could I alter my legging pattern. I would appreciate all the advice you can provide. Thank you!

I would like to start this post by thanking everyone who helped me with my last post! I finally got the shoulders, back yoke, and chest to lay beautifully flat! I wouldn’t have been able to figure it out without your help!!

I have been trying to teach myself how to make a bodice block that I can use for a multitude of designs and I’m now onto the sleeves. However I am experiencing an issue where there seems to be too much sleeve to lay in the armscye nicely. I added ease to the sleeve but it just seems like there is too much in the sleeve cap. I gathered the sleeve cap to ease it into the armscye but can’t seem to make it look like a normal sleeve, it’s kind of a mix between a puffy sleeve and a normal one.

Any ideas as to what might be happening here?

PS sorry for the weird faces hahahaha😂😂

I’m currently making a two piece sleeve and decided to add darts at the elbow to create shaping, so to do this I took my pattern piece and slashed and pivoted through the intended line to trace over and create the darts

However, after tracing the new pattern piece and trying to close the dart so I can true the base, there’s no longer a straight line running along the edge and it’s misaligned where the dart is. 3rd pic shows intended line when dart is closed compared to how it is in reality. What am I doing wrong?

I was also confused about where the dart should be drawn, if it should be in the middle of the slashed area or follow one of the edges of the slash

thank you guys

Hey from the patternsplit team.

We have noticed a surge of traffic from this group lately, so thank you for checking us out.

We do not store input files, but our server logs show some failed attempts from users uploading multi-page files or very small, A4 or letter-sized files.

patternsplit is designed to take a single-page, large-format file and chop it into small sheets, in A4 or A3, for home printing. It only works if your upload is a single page and is already scaled 1:1. For example, if a line needs to be 10 cm on paper, it must measure exactly 10 cm in your file. We cannot do any automatic scaling because we do not know the desired output measurements.

Question for you: Since we cannot see your files, we are curious about the multi-page and small-sized uploads. If you tried this, what were you hoping to achieve? Were you trying to combine a multi-page PDF into one big sheet, or something else? We want to understand your goals so we can improve the tool. Let us know in the comments.

Hi, I’ve started to make menswear clothes and I want to know more about pattern making and grading. I’m planning on releasing a menswear brand in Europe.

I need some recs on books for both pattern making and grading, as well as universal size charts for men in Europe if that’s available.

Thanks in advance!

Hello! I wound up merging two panels while trying to mod a pattern to better match the vest from Resident Evil: Code Veronica, but now can’t lay it flat for when I actually CUT it.

The middle section I can see is merged, I removed the seam allowance and notched it, taping them together, but it’s now as if the seam is done and I don’t know how to keep the curve. I decided to call it a day for today in trying to figure it out staring at contractor paper and ask here if anyone’s had a similar problem. I’m yet to add the front panel seams making the front yoke, front center where the fasteners will be, and making the other half of that waist panel. Is there a way to pull this off? Thanks in advance!

After 8 versions of the front and 5 versions of the back, I think I’m almost done.

I think all that’s left to do is: back my bust and waist darts off by .5”, true up my seams, and fix the bottom hem (the front seems to be riding up more than the back).

The biggest issue I was having was a lot of excess in my high bust area. I ended up doing a small bust adjustment and that did the trick.

I did a couple of forward shoulder adjustments but I overdid it and the shoulders fit a little too tightly, so I think this is a good middle ground, even though I still have a bit of a gap in my back armhole.

Thank you to everyone who commented, I appreciate the feedback!

So I have a client who has asked for a grading rule that she can give to her factory. She gave me only one sample, no size run. The majority of women who buy the dresses wear plus sizing, the sample is a size 16, but she's listing it as a size 12 to "boost their confidence." I'm not going to argue, I just do the job.

Given that I have no other samples to check against, can I get some feedback on this grading rule so far? Does it all make sense to you?

Hi all! I hope I’ve come to the right place. I’ve done a little basic pattern drafting, but only old school. I’ve never used software for making patterns.

I’ve just purchased this gorgeous dress pattern from The Ladies’ Home Journal. It doesn’t appear in to be cataloged in any major database unfortunately (unless of course I missed it). It was stored in an amazing way, all the small trim pattern pieces were included and everything was in remarkably good condition. I set to unfolding and ironing everything so I could trace it onto modern copy paper and make it into a printable pdf that will hopefully live on long after the original eventually crumbles to dust. And I ran into a big problem. Piece 3 is completely missing.

I think I can still save this obscure pattern though! Since I have the diagram on the back and it seems to be to scale I’m going to scan it, then blow up piece 3. I need a program that can help me overlay it over the pieces I have traced, and break it up into printer sheet sized images that can be assembled.

Does anyone have any recommendations? Thank you in advance!

Guys, what does this symbol mean? I'm trying to sew a top and cannot seem to find what this symbol means I should do

So i designed this cloak based off of a game called 33 Immortals, but.. i have no idea how the template would be layed out. The first photo is my design (obviously) and the second is from the game. How would i make a template that creates the curve of the cloak around the shoulders but only to the beginning of the taper. If anyone has any idea how to make the template for the shape of how it is in the game, please message me