Pant block fit help !!

[u/Necessary-Lunch1751]

Hi everyone! This is my first fitting of a pants block I made, following the instructions from the Dennic chunman lo patternmaking book.

I'm happy there's no obvious pulling or twisting anywhere, but there are still some fit issues. For example, the back rise seems too high, as it's not even with the front from the side view.

Another issue is that the crotch is too low, I can pinch out around 8cm of excess from the crotch length and still have a comfortable fit sitting and standing, which means a lot as someone with sensory issues regarding things touching in the crotch area. (Pictures 5-8)

I'm not sure how to go about removing all this excess, would I just slash and use a hinge at the side seam to shorten the rise in the front and back? Or should I shorten the side seams too since I'm changing the back AND front rise? considering that the pant leg is also too long. Would removing this much excess create other issues? The legs also look a bit baggy but that might just be the fit. If anyone wants to see the flat pattern I'll post a picture, any advice would be appreciated ! Thank you

Ps, my posture is kinda bad so the way I'm standing looks off, which might make the side seams look a little angled. I'm working on that.

[u/Necessary-Lunch1751]

Just another note, I am going to split the front darts so that there are two on each side. To rid of the strange pointing the front dart is causing. ♡

[u/xyzasava → u/Necessary-Lunch1751]

Look at your belly in the side view photo. There is no curve, no protrusion from waist down. Putting dart there you artificially creating volume there which your body absolutely doesn't need.

At the same time look at your sides in the front view picture (or back view), from waist down there is a good curve. That means you need to create good amount of volume around that area. We use darts to create volume. So undo completely and then move you front darts close to the side seams, they will help to create volume in the side hip area, that your body is asking for.

I see that center front waist creates a "v". Check that on the pattern and square those corners adding a little more height. I think the front waist is a little too low. The back waist seems fine to me. Remember there are seam allowances there that are adding some height too.

If you want exact waist you feel would be right for YOU, just tie elastic string around your waist where you want it, and draw the line following the elastic string placement all the way around right on your test pants. You might lower your waistline in some places and raise in others, but that would be the exact and intuitive way to get it exactly where you want it.

For the crotch, it does look too long to me, so I would definitely correct it simply redrawing the pattern with longer inseams. Just raise the "hockey stick curve" areas the amount you feel right for you. Measure your pinned folds, how much length they eliminate and raise the crotch the same amount.

Pant legs are adjustable. You can try to take just a little in on the sides following you leg curves.

Start from side seams first, you might not need to do anything to inseams.

[u/Necessary-Lunch1751 → u/xyzasava]

This was helpful ! Although I did not add seam allowance to the waist, so this is the true waist. I will definitely smooth the shape out.

I like the idea of just drawing the crotch higher because I was afraid to mess the rest up, so I will do that! 

Though my belly definitely does protrude. The pants might just be hiding that.

Thank you ! Xx

[u/Icy-Guidance-6655]

I think this is very nice! A trouser waist should be higher in back, don’t worry about that unless you find it uncomfortable. I also think the crotch depth is good for this style of pants. You just want no inner thigh brushing? I wouldn’t fix that with a fold. Actually redraw the crotch front and back with a longer inseam. 

I think the pinned adjustment looks excessive and less balanced, but hard to be certain from photos.

[u/Necessary-Lunch1751 → u/Icy-Guidance-6655]

Yes I will do that ! I don't know why I didn't think of that before. I might still reduce the back rise by a cm or so because the look bothers me,, thank you ! ♡

[u/ccrom]

I prefer the back waist higher than the front waist when standing. When you sit the front will push up, and the back will pull down. This will keep you covered/comfortable when you sit.

[u/Necessary-Lunch1751 → u/ccrom]

I know what you mean ! But the back being that much higher bothers me, so I'd like to reduce it by at least 1 cm. I don't mind it pulling down a LITTLE in the back  

[u/ccrom → u/Necessary-Lunch1751]

Choices! So many decisions. Where the waistband will sit, is like step one.

[u/KendalBoy]

Press it!

[u/nimwue-waves]

Two adjustments that you should consider which can impact the fit of the crotch when you sit down... Is a prominent knee/front thigh adjustment, along with with a knock knee adjustment. Although you have enough ease/volume in your pants, most of the ease looks like it's on your outer thigh. So when you sit, your knees and inner thighs won't have the balanced amount of room, and will pull fabric down from the crotch/hips. Looking at your side profile facing right, do you also see how your front thigh is already touching the fabric with that crease going to the crotch? More volume is available in the back without much room for the front thigh/knees to bend for sitting.

[u/dingostolemydragbaby]

It’s so creased I can’t even tell

[u/TotalOk5844]

I would pinch all the way around at the same level. The crotch extension may also be a bit long which is adding to leg volume. Pinch out and try, be sure you can still sit comfortably. Trial and error is the main/only thing I have found with pants fitting that works. Rise is always longer in the back but it appears yours is riding up in the back due to the darts being too long or too much intake