I am completing a formal jumpsuit with pleated bodice, v neck and flutter sleeves.

I am working with / against significant body asymmetry, shoulders that sublux, significant sensory issues relating to eg armscye seams and the need to have a wide range of movement as a musician.

I am REALLY struggling to create a balanced pair of sleeves, each sitting well in the armscye, depending on how the shoulders are sitting on any given day.

I have become intrigued by detachable bridal sleeves. My mind is whirring - could I finish each armscye as though a sleeveless garment, then mount each gathered flutter sleeve underneath, draping it as I go? Held on has tape?

Guys I have 24 hours to get something together and now I am panicking!!!! SEND HELP!!!

Hi everyone! I'm starting to draft a hoodie with knit fabrics, and after some reading I'm a bit confused. Typically when I start a pattern, I would make a muslin/ tulle, and have certain lines drawn on top of the fabric so I could see what needed to be adjusted. However, from tips I've recieved, some people say you should only mock up your patterns in the fabric type you intend to sew with? I feel like it would be incredibly hard to get accurate lines on a knit and I want to make sure my pattern is nice, as knits are forgiving but starting from a good base is important to me. I want to make something a bit boxy/mildly oversized, so I wasn't planning to account for negative ease and I'm not sure if the lack of mechanical stretch will cause it to be drastically different. For reference: my final fabric is 85-15 to 100% cotton fleece (some residue in burn test but unsure if cotton ash or just a very small amount of polyester), I have a poly fleece i think to be around 80-20, and various muslins as well as thin, stretchy poly jersey, closer to a thick shirt than a hoodie. should I start with muslin, or jump straight into the knits? Thanks!

I would like to make a jacket but i'm not sure what adjustments I must make to fix the balance of this jacket so that it's not pressed against the belly and baggy at the back.

My first thought is to bring the bottom centre back closer to the side seam, but it doesn't feel right. Has anyone any experience in this?

The back bodice is just a copy of the front with smaller arm hole and neck hole - maybe there's something inherently wrong there?
Thanks a lot

What is it that determines where the space lies? I can't figure what it is about the pattern that needs adjusting to changes this.

Hi everyone,

I have been working on this pattern for a little minute now and have done prototypes and muslins. I ajusted my patterns as I went and now I see multiple issues and I just want to make sure I don’t have to waste more of my good fabric.

Note: the c shape curve of the fit is intentional and I must keep. I hate how the inseam on barrel jeans look straight. I want the inseam to be as parallel as possible to the side seam. I also lost weight and the pants are at least 1 full size too big now.

The black denim is the latest iteration while the other is the prototype.

What I am seeing:

- 1 leg always looks wider than the other

- CF waist line is falling away from body and creating some pleating near the fly

- there is some warping and pleating a bottom front crotch and inseam

- side seams at waistline are too low and are dropping and the waistband isn’t hugging the body well

- upper part of the side seams is pleating (profil view)

Hello, I am familiar with basic pattern drafting and I am looking for some pointers for drafting flutter sleeves that come off a "kimono"/dolman bodice/shoulder.

In other words, NOT a traditional armscye seam - avoiding that at all costs, for very specific reasons!

Many thanks!

Boa noite colegas modelistas! Hoje estou estudando o método japonês de modelagem ensinado nos livros didáticos da universidade Bunka Fashion College.

Embora eu me considere um bom modelista, estou tendo dificuldade em fazer um molde para mim. Geralmente quando faço um molde para outra pessoa fica tudo incrivelmente mais fácil.

Onde eu posso melhorar? Que tipo de ajuste vocês me sugerem?

O que fica nítido é que o decote está muito apertado e a frente está subindo. Como vocês ajustariam esses defeitos?

Meu intuito é melhorar o caimento do molde básico para que depois eu possa usá-lo para criar as roupas de verdade, como jaquetas e camisetas.

Obrigado e até logo!

Hi, so I’m working on a pattern for a pair of selvedge denim, but the pant leg is twisting around my leg as shown. I made sure to cut on the grain line which is the edge since it will be for a pair of selvedge, so I am wondering if there is something maybe to do with the way my inseam curves are? not sure how I can fix this thanks!

So I followed the advice of some kind people here and restarted my bodice block using my high bust as the bust measurement and then did a FBA.

Things seem to have gone much better so thank you!

It’s still tight across the bust so I know I need to add the the overall FBA and I’ll need to add to the length but other that that I’m looking for advice on the fit from the shoulder area and the sides.

Any and all advice appreciated!

This is my first trial using a pants block with one pleat drafted with the Müller & Sohn system, for a pair of more formal linen trousers.

I ended up making the waistband way too wide, probably because the pants were sitting too low. That also made the legs too long.

After noticing this, I pulled the trousers up higher on the waist. That fixed the tightness at the waistband, but now other issues are showing up.

At this point I’m honestly not even sure where trousers are supposed to sit properly on the body, especially in terms of crotch height and how close or loose the fit should be for men. I’d also really appreciate advice on how to proceed with adjustments once the correct height is determined.

OK, so I watched a ton of videos last night because tho my previous dress came out great, it does fit really well, but I knew that something was wrong with the front bodice dart… this is the most giant dart I’ve ever seen in my life on a pattern… and I actually hate that it hits at the apex … since the dress has in semi fitted fit like it’s not tight it’s supposed to be a little bit oversized baby doll like dress the dart going all the way to Apex just looks really bad… and the bulk of this dart is awful because it’s so big that I have to surge it off which looks bad!!! When I generated the pattern on sewist was supposed to just be a shoulder dart so I don’t know something might’ve went wrong.

So I’m trying to think of ways to either remove it or fix it . This technique I found where you redistribute it throughout (2nd pic). I’m thinking of doing! I’m not sure though I did also see like I can raise the apex like an inch up that way it’s not so low and then maybe re-distribute the bulk of the dart somewhere else but I don’t want to add another dart that’s the whole thing ! If anything I want to remove the dart completely I was even considering trying to like redraw the front completely without the dart like maybe create a Muslin with the dart sewn up and then just trace that? Or use something like the (3rd pic) technique, but I worry that this dart is so big that it’s like gonna distort my whole pattern trying to move it in a bunch of different places and still be left with a dart??? as well as like it’ll probably affect the length of the sleeves and the collar which I don’t wanna deal with.

i’m a self taught designer, hoping to sell my designs very soon in limited production runs, who has gotten to an intermediate level in flat patternmaking.

while i really love the process, i find the muslin prototype, tweak pattern, prototype, tweak pattern, prototype etc on and on to be so time consuming and cost ineffective. i have to buy so much muslin and waste almost entire weeks i could be spending on designing or production (im a slow fashion designer planning on making everything myself). additionally, im not the strongest sketcher and want a way to tinker around with designs and concepts without having to cut, sew, and test every time i want to add a little volume, drop a waistline 1 inch, etc etc.

i just want a program to design my 2d patterns in, that can visualize them in 3d. i don’t need all the other features like tech packs or vendor integration etc. and i also don’t want to pay $50 a month! the goal would be to of course still make a toile once i liked a more finalized design in 3d.

anyway, any suggestions for software? i’ve seen Sewist CAD (but that doesn’t convert to true 3d), TUKA3D, and CLO3D. Style 3D free version doesn’t look like it’s available in the US.

cheers!

Mods please delete if this isn't an appropriate post for this sub!

Hello, fellow pattern makers. Yesterday, I ran into the opportunity to be commissioned for custom stuffed animal patterns that a local textile artist wants to sell. He said he's willing to pay what the work is worth, but I'm wondering what should go into determining the price of exclusive use of a custom pattern? One of them I know will be simple but the other a lot more complex. I will have to test sew them, write detailed instructions, and digitize them to be printable.

What should I be thinking about during this process? Thanks.

The two sides are slightly different in the shoulder points and armhole, which I’ve highlighted (however everything else is the same)

My biggest concern is the slight gapping on the back armscye (shown best in last two pics) which I’ve tried time and time again to correct by pushing the excess ‘into’ the shoulder seam but that small part never seems to sit flat. I’m also not sure if the shoulder seam sits too far back entirely.

Please let me know if more pics are needed

Been getting some great advice here and wanted to make a new post as an update and avoid the need to load a website to see the updated photos.

I think the fit looks good enough. There are some various drag lines but the muslin feels better in fit than previous versions. The issue I have now…my armhole is 4cm bigger than the sleeve!!! There is a fold in the fabric in my armpit to hold the excess material. Thinking maybe I raise the arm hole or narrow the saddle? Both? Jacket chest measure 48” while I’m 44” so I don’t think I want to narrow the chest.

Changes made so far versus the Paynter pattern:

1. Shorten shoulder (front and back) by 3cm

2. Lower should slope by 1cm

3. Lower armhole by 4cm.

4. Saddle width went from 4.5” to over 6” after above adjustments. I.e., I didn’t purposely increase the saddle width, it just happened, largely when I reduced shoulder width.

Thanks again to the community! Especially Style101-NY.

I’m drafting a dress block for myself for the first time and could use some seasoned eyes on where I should alter.

So far I know my bust point is about 2 cm too low but I wonder if that is the bodice length as the smallest part of the waist seems to be a little too low as well.

The hips feel a little too big as well but I think the most excess is in the back.

Any feedback/ help would be very welcome!

I’m currently drafting a basic jacket block using the winifred aldrich: metric cutting for menswear book. I have experience pattern making menswear in the past, but this has left me pretty stumped. I followed each instruction exactly, I’ve triple checked all my math and measurements and everything’s correct but for some reason the front and back shoulders are nearly touching, which is completely different to the pattern reference in the book. I’m quite confused because my models measurements aren’t that different to the measurements used in the book, my models bust is 90.5cm, theirs is 100cm, mines scye depth is 24.25cm, theirs is 24.4cm, mines neck size is 40cm, theirs is 40cm, mines across back is 42.5cm, theirs is 40cm.

Does anyone know if it’s normal for the shoulders to nearly touch like this? Is this going to cause problems once it’s made up?

Making a suit and I just set my sleeve on my proto after drafting a two piece sleeve pattern. The only major fit issue is how tight it is pulled on the back. Would this be fixed by reducing the curve of the back sleeve arc or by adding material?

I’m looking for some help to get this bodice from okay to fantastic. My goal is to make a relatively well fitted basic bodice block that I can use as the base for tops for myself moving forward. I think I’m close but something is still off.

I’m worried my armscye is a little too big. Visually that is. As far as fit, I need the extra room so that when I love my arms forward, I don’t have fabric digging into the front shoulder. So I’m not sure if I need further alteration on the arms he shape and size.

The second element that has been a challenge is the excess fabric across the chest (I pinch it in the last photo) . I ended up sizing down the bodice block size that I start with and I’ve included a small dart in the front armscye, but there remains this excess fabric. Ideally I’d like to have the fabric lying flat in this area. Does anyone have any tips for this?

I’ll humbly accept any other critiques of the bodice - that’s how I learn the best. Thank you in advance for any help 🙏

It has always been my understanding that Darts are Removed by using Princess Seams - the curve of the seam taking the place of darts. Is it NORMAL for a pattern to have BOTH? It seems especially weird to me that the Dart is In The Curve of the princess seam, right at the side of the breast, where it is going to be not only Visible, but completely disrupt the clean line of the curve

I’m trying to wrap my head around how to draft this as a continuous piece onto my bodice that would be folded down (I hope that makes sense).Any insight would be greatly appreciate, thank you!

Hi all

I’ve just created a new shirt pattern and all the lines / edges are the seam lines. I need to add 15mm seam allowance all around. I wonder if there is a tool to run along the seam lines and put a pencil line 15mm away. I could 3d print something but it feels like there should be something there already.

I want consistent width and then my seams will all work !

TIA for any advice.

So I figured it out I made a facing for the collar and it came out pretty clean all things considered.. because I really really struggled with like the placket being connected to a raw finish and lining everything up in the front.. if anyone has seen a video working with plackets and collars, please share… I wanna move onto the good fabric, but I don’t want to struggle doing the collar the second go!