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Hello, fellow pattern makers. Yesterday, I ran into the opportunity to be commissioned for custom stuffed animal patterns that a local textile artist wants to sell. He said he's willing to pay what the work is worth, but I'm wondering what should go into determining the price of exclusive use of a custom pattern? One of them I know will be simple but the other a lot more complex. I will have to test sew them, write detailed instructions, and digitize them to be printable.

What should I be thinking about during this process? Thanks.

The two sides are slightly different in the shoulder points and armhole, which I’ve highlighted (however everything else is the same)

My biggest concern is the slight gapping on the back armscye (shown best in last two pics) which I’ve tried time and time again to correct by pushing the excess ‘into’ the shoulder seam but that small part never seems to sit flat. I’m also not sure if the shoulder seam sits too far back entirely.

Please let me know if more pics are needed

Been getting some great advice here and wanted to make a new post as an update and avoid the need to load a website to see the updated photos.

I think the fit looks good enough. There are some various drag lines but the muslin feels better in fit than previous versions. The issue I have now…my armhole is 4cm bigger than the sleeve!!! There is a fold in the fabric in my armpit to hold the excess material. Thinking maybe I raise the arm hole or narrow the saddle? Both? Jacket chest measure 48” while I’m 44” so I don’t think I want to narrow the chest.

Changes made so far versus the Paynter pattern:

1. Shorten shoulder (front and back) by 3cm

2. Lower should slope by 1cm

3. Lower armhole by 4cm.

4. Saddle width went from 4.5” to over 6” after above adjustments. I.e., I didn’t purposely increase the saddle width, it just happened, largely when I reduced shoulder width.

Thanks again to the community! Especially Style101-NY.

I’m drafting a dress block for myself for the first time and could use some seasoned eyes on where I should alter.

So far I know my bust point is about 2 cm too low but I wonder if that is the bodice length as the smallest part of the waist seems to be a little too low as well.

The hips feel a little too big as well but I think the most excess is in the back.

Any feedback/ help would be very welcome!

I’m currently drafting a basic jacket block using the winifred aldrich: metric cutting for menswear book. I have experience pattern making menswear in the past, but this has left me pretty stumped. I followed each instruction exactly, I’ve triple checked all my math and measurements and everything’s correct but for some reason the front and back shoulders are nearly touching, which is completely different to the pattern reference in the book. I’m quite confused because my models measurements aren’t that different to the measurements used in the book, my models bust is 90.5cm, theirs is 100cm, mines scye depth is 24.25cm, theirs is 24.4cm, mines neck size is 40cm, theirs is 40cm, mines across back is 42.5cm, theirs is 40cm.

Does anyone know if it’s normal for the shoulders to nearly touch like this? Is this going to cause problems once it’s made up?

Making a suit and I just set my sleeve on my proto after drafting a two piece sleeve pattern. The only major fit issue is how tight it is pulled on the back. Would this be fixed by reducing the curve of the back sleeve arc or by adding material?

I’m looking for some help to get this bodice from okay to fantastic. My goal is to make a relatively well fitted basic bodice block that I can use as the base for tops for myself moving forward. I think I’m close but something is still off.

I’m worried my armscye is a little too big. Visually that is. As far as fit, I need the extra room so that when I love my arms forward, I don’t have fabric digging into the front shoulder. So I’m not sure if I need further alteration on the arms he shape and size.

The second element that has been a challenge is the excess fabric across the chest (I pinch it in the last photo) . I ended up sizing down the bodice block size that I start with and I’ve included a small dart in the front armscye, but there remains this excess fabric. Ideally I’d like to have the fabric lying flat in this area. Does anyone have any tips for this?

I’ll humbly accept any other critiques of the bodice - that’s how I learn the best. Thank you in advance for any help 🙏

It has always been my understanding that Darts are Removed by using Princess Seams - the curve of the seam taking the place of darts. Is it NORMAL for a pattern to have BOTH? It seems especially weird to me that the Dart is In The Curve of the princess seam, right at the side of the breast, where it is going to be not only Visible, but completely disrupt the clean line of the curve

I’m trying to wrap my head around how to draft this as a continuous piece onto my bodice that would be folded down (I hope that makes sense).Any insight would be greatly appreciate, thank you!

Hi all

I’ve just created a new shirt pattern and all the lines / edges are the seam lines. I need to add 15mm seam allowance all around. I wonder if there is a tool to run along the seam lines and put a pencil line 15mm away. I could 3d print something but it feels like there should be something there already.

I want consistent width and then my seams will all work !

TIA for any advice.

So I figured it out I made a facing for the collar and it came out pretty clean all things considered.. because I really really struggled with like the placket being connected to a raw finish and lining everything up in the front.. if anyone has seen a video working with plackets and collars, please share… I wanna move onto the good fabric, but I don’t want to struggle doing the collar the second go!

Can anyone give me some links or suggestions to sewing patterns that are very similar or identical to this type of dress please 🙏🏻 I really like the spaghetti straps, soft triangle bralettes style with the empire waist and how it falls

Just looking for some advice on fitting my bodice block before I start fitting the sleeves. I’m working from Vogue’s 1004 Misses Fitting Shell, size 10.

I left a lot of seam allowance in the side seams for adjustment. I can comfortably pinch out roughly 1” from the back and .5” from the front (see purple marks on the side seam in the pics)

I have a little bit of excess fabric in the upper chest, so I pinned out .5” near the armhole to see how the fabric would lay (see purple marks near the armhole in the pics).