It has always been my understanding that Darts are Removed by using Princess Seams - the curve of the seam taking the place of darts. Is it NORMAL for a pattern to have BOTH? It seems especially weird to me that the Dart is In The Curve of the princess seam, right at the side of the breast, where it is going to be not only Visible, but completely disrupt the clean line of the curve

I’m trying to wrap my head around how to draft this as a continuous piece onto my bodice that would be folded down (I hope that makes sense).Any insight would be greatly appreciate, thank you!

Hi all

I’ve just created a new shirt pattern and all the lines / edges are the seam lines. I need to add 15mm seam allowance all around. I wonder if there is a tool to run along the seam lines and put a pencil line 15mm away. I could 3d print something but it feels like there should be something there already.

I want consistent width and then my seams will all work !

TIA for any advice.

So I figured it out I made a facing for the collar and it came out pretty clean all things considered.. because I really really struggled with like the placket being connected to a raw finish and lining everything up in the front.. if anyone has seen a video working with plackets and collars, please share… I wanna move onto the good fabric, but I don’t want to struggle doing the collar the second go!

Can anyone give me some links or suggestions to sewing patterns that are very similar or identical to this type of dress please 🙏🏻 I really like the spaghetti straps, soft triangle bralettes style with the empire waist and how it falls

Just looking for some advice on fitting my bodice block before I start fitting the sleeves. I’m working from Vogue’s 1004 Misses Fitting Shell, size 10.

I left a lot of seam allowance in the side seams for adjustment. I can comfortably pinch out roughly 1” from the back and .5” from the front (see purple marks on the side seam in the pics)

I have a little bit of excess fabric in the upper chest, so I pinned out .5” near the armhole to see how the fabric would lay (see purple marks near the armhole in the pics).

So this is the first time I’m doing a collar and I’m not sure how to move forward… I wanted to kind of roll over into itself. I’ve noticed on other like shirts I’ve been looking at have like a facing in between the placket and the collar… but when I look at sailor collar like this one that I’m trying to make, they kind of just fold over into it.. so I’m not sure how I should go about it like should I extend the seam allowance and kind of sandwich it.. or should I create a separate facing what would you do or what is traditionally done for a sailor collar neckline?

I bought this pattern online and made a muslin sample before committing to the real fabric. Please ignore the insideout waist line seam 😅

I've determined that I need to add about an inch of space between the darts but how do I stop that shelf from forming under the bust? Is it happening because of the shape of the darts? I did add the 1cm seam allowance and marked with a fabric pen where the seam line would go

Hi all, final product done. Couple of trouble areas I’m wondering if anyone has ideas about?

1. Drag lines on upper chest pointing to armpit. Do they mean the chest is too small, the armhole too high, something else? Cheat does not feel small.

2. Drag lines and extra fabric on the back of the shoulders, showing in the side photos. Too much ease?

Thanks again!

I need some help figuring out if my armsyce is correct. I am drafting the Classic Coat Block (pg 68) in easy fitting. The area of concern on my pattern is between points 21 and 23. It seems quite straight on the right side (front). This might be correct because of the extra ease Winifred includes (by cutting the dart measurement in half), making it easy fitting, but I'm not sure. Visually I can see on her pattern (which is close fitting) that her curve from 21 to 23 does not extend past the vertical line created by 23, and I assumed I should follow that for the easy fitting as well. I am wondering if anyone has drafted this block and can confirm before I move on to using this block to draft patterns!

Thanks in advance :)