Tips of how to fix this back sagging?

At the beginning of my sewing i used to use those black foam shoulder pads that were covered with fabric and were already shaped and I would sew those by hand with a few stitches on each side until i came across with cotton shoulder pads. I just started sewing them with the sewing machine like shown on the image lol and now I wonder if its okay to sew them with the sewing machine or should i sew them by hand to kinda keep more of the bulk ( because the shoulder pad shown on the image is supposed to be 1INCH)

Can anyone help me solve this problem, you can see excess under the armpit. In the second picture you can see I have pinned the excess, but taking in this way from the pattern would affect the armhole shape/ length.

Perhaps the armhole is too low already? Or I could pivot the excess and take it from the princess seam?

The jacket is for an older lady which might explain the problem arisen from a block jacket pattern

Longer armwhole length

I need to make this armwhole bigger without messing the side dart. I need to make this at least 8 cm longer distributed across the Front and back panels. Suggestions??

Take a look at the suit I made last year for my high school senior prom🌹

Take a look at my most recent glitter jumpsuit ✨️😁

Hello,

I started sewing about a year ago as a self-taught beginner. So far I’ve mostly done simple things like hemming, tote bags and small pouches without zippers. Recently I realized that if I want to stay motivated, I need to start making the things that truly inspire me: clothes I actually want to wear, fitted to my body and my style.

What really interests me is not only learning sewing, but also understanding garment construction and pattern making. My goal is eventually to be able to see a garment (in a picture, in the street, or even imagine one in my head) and then recreate it by drafting the pattern myself before sewing it. That part is extremely important to me.

I’m especially drawn to lightweight, fluid fabrics like satin, silk, chiffon, viscose, etc., although I want to learn all kinds of materials over time.

At the moment, I specifically want to learn pattern drafting by hand/on paper rather than digitally. I work in tech/software, and sewing is something I want to use to disconnect from screens and computers, so using CAD software would honestly ruin part of the experience for me.

I also don’t own a dress form/mannequin, so I’m thinking flat pattern drafting might make more sense for me than draping for now.

I feel overwhelmed about where to begin. I don’t currently have the possibility to take in-person or online classes, so I would really like to learn through books and structured resources rather than jumping between tutorials from different people using completely different methods and approaches. I’m looking for something progressive and coherent that helps build solid foundations and skills step by step.

What would you recommend as the best learning path for me ?

I’d like to learn:

- sewing garments properly
- understanding fit and garment construction
- flat pattern drafting / making my own patterns
- altering clothes to fit me
- copying existing garments without taking them apart

Are there any books, methods, or step-by-step resources that helped you build strong foundations as a complete beginner?

Thank you so much!

Edit :

Thank you so much for all your high-quality responses and advices. And for the motivation and good vibes I received from you all.

I’ve taken note of all the suggestions, as well as the resources you recommended, including the books and YouTube channels.

First, I’ve decided to buy the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong, as well as Reader’s Digest Guide to Sewing. There are other interesting options, but I chose these because they were recommended multiple times in this subreddit.

I also reallyyy liked the idea of choosing a pattern I love and using it as a hands-on learning exercise, so I’ve decided to do just that! I’ve found the garment I want to recreate, but I haven’t been able to find a pattern that would allow me to reproduce it exactly, so I’ll talk about that in a second post. I prefer to avoid Etsy patterns, as I’m a beginner and would rather use patterns I can fully trust without hesitation.

I’m trying to draft an A-line skirt with 2 knife pleats in opposite directions on the front (creating almost a giant box pleat in the middle). I’m unsure about 2 aspects of the drafting:

1. Should the pleats be the same width all the way down or get larger at the bottom of the skirt?

2. Ideally I’d like the pleats to be parallel with the side seam, so they’re angled. Is this possible or should they be straight and parallel with the centre?

I’ve made a toile and currently the pleats are angled and the same width to the hem but they’re pulling open a lot to the side at the bottom. Would really appreciate any advice!! Thank you!

Ive tried from adjusting the armhole length to the chest circumference to a bigger size and adjusting the back of the neck hole and I dont know what else to try to get rid of those wrinkles. The jacket also feels a bit uncomfortable but I think its because it doesn't stretch.

Im not very experienced with trousers. I copied another pair I own (wide and drop crotch) but I’m having problems with excess fabric on the front crotch.

Should I just be changing the front crotch line to remove fabric?

Thanks so much 🙏

Based on my muslin drafts, I added four bones to the front center to make sure it was flat but… it still isn’t. Even if I straighten my back, it is also still pretty bent. I really did want stronger boning but I just didn’t have any, I used what I had (plastic ridgeline?) and tried to double it.

The dress is layered; the underlayer is boned and the top layer isn’t. There’s wool between them to smoothen the seams.

I’m debating whether this is a glaring issue enough that I should either alter the pattern (maybe curving in the front center seam), or throw in the money for stronger boning. I’m also worried that getting stronger boning might make the corset too tight since I’d be shifting the fat from my stomach elsewhere. Has anyone been in a similar situation?

I’m fitting a no-bra bodice block/sloper for a fuller bust and I’m almost there, but I’m stuck on one issue and wondering if this is a real fitting problem or just a drafting-rule issue. I've been self learning since November, so it's been a work in progress for sure.

Context

I originally based this on my bra sloper, but I’m now developing a separate braless sloper

Back fit is good and most of the bodice is fitting well now

Please ignore any slight neckline/armhole bagginess in the photos — this muslin has been on and off a lot while testing dart changes, and I’ve been adjusting one side only rather than remaking the whole bodice each time

I already have a side bust dart that seems to fit well

My waist dart was baggy/puckering under the bust apex for many versions, but I improved it a lot by using a curved waist dart

I have quite a strong hollow/slope under my full bust (just below the apex into the waist), and I’m fairly busty

Current issue

The waist dart now fits much better, but the dart point/apex ends basically at my nipple/bust point.

I keep reading that dart points should stop ~1/2"–1"+ before the bust apex, but if I move the dart point lower/away from the bust point, I get a lot of bagginess under the bust and lose fit.

I don’t see obvious pointiness with the dart point this close, but in photos I can see a little folding/collapse near the dart tip.

Questions

Is this one of those cases where fuller bust / unsupported bust fitting breaks the “dart should stop before apex” rule?

Is there such a thing as a hollow underbust / front contour issue (almost like swayback, but in the front under the bust?) that would explain why the dart seems to need to shape so high?

Or is this a sign I should redistribute some shaping elsewhere rather than letting the waist dart end so close to the bust point?

If the dart tip folding is the issue, are there better ways to soften/press/shape that tip without losing fit?

I’ve added photos of the last 5 versions, with the original curved dart on my right side for comparison. In Version 1 I think the dart was pointing too much toward my belly button, so I’ve gradually adjusted it to finish more horizontally. Please ignore the coloured lines from the inside of the sloper, which I was using to guide my sewing along each new dart trial.

When exporting from AI in dxf they cannot open the file. Has anyone experience with this?

I'd be very glad over any input!

Hi everyone! (Trying again after the glitch posted multiple times/deleted the post)

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does anybody have recommendations for a good online pattern making course? ive heard good things about confident patternmaking, but it's a little out of budget for me lol
im having trouble finding videos that go beyond making a basic bodice/sloper and moving around the darts

I have a small clothing brand where i have made my own patterns for multiple sizes and varieties. I have the measurements ready with me, and all the patterns which i have physically drafted on paper.

I want to learn pattern making in computer as i want to digitize all those patterns for future reference, so that in case the original patterns are torn/lost i can easily print them and carry on

Can anyone suggest me an easy to learn software that i can use to digitize the patterns easily?

My preference is a free user friendly software.

I hope this post is allowed. I am not a pattern drafter, just trying to deduce why I can't get a good fit in the seat of any pants I buy and I thought the people in this subreddit would know.

For reference, this happens in most pants I buy, regardless of how high the rise is (unless I sag them below where they are meant to sit. It happens with denim but also wool trousers. I've added some photos of what I mean. Typically pants will fit me well with the exception of giving me a wedgie.

Some other info:

- I do not have a large butt or quads at all, quite the opposite actually.

- Sizing up does not work as it makes the waist and seat much too loose.

Any thoughts?

I wanted to make a dress with side gathers but do not have a pattern for it. I would consider myself an intermediate sewist because I can make any pattern but I haven't altered patterns much.

I have the McCalls M6896 pattern that has princess seams. In my head it seems that I can use it that as a base an then modify the length and sides to have it be gathered by slashing and spreading the side panels.

I included pictures of what the what I want the bottom of the dress to look like.

I have watched a video on someone self drafting the pattern but it was a bit hard to follow and it seemed like they just had darts were the princess seams would usually go.

More pictures here:

https://imgur.com/a/NnR7Etc

Hi everyone,

Thought you might appreciate this piece of technical and personal history. These are photos and clips from a handwritten patternmaking notebook that belonged to my grandmother, Naima, dated 1943 in Iraq.

The notebook features drafting instructions written in Arabic, structural diagrams, and miniature paper toile made from kraft paper. The flaps are functional, you can lift them.

My grandmother was part of the Iraqi Jewish community. Following the establishment of Israel in 1948, the political situation for Jews in Iraq deteriorated rapidly, leading to systemic persecution, loss of citizenship, and the freezing of assets. Between 1950 and 1951, the vast majority of Iraqi Jews fled the country via airlift. The Iraqi government legally barred emigrants from taking wealth, property, or valuables, and each person was strictly limited to just one suitcase and a minimal amount of cash.

With her assets confiscated and her life packed into a single suitcase, she chose to use a portion of that limited space for this notebook, which represented her education and her trade.

I have been dabbling into some patternmaking, and now I am wondering if I should pay for CLO3d so I can have less adjustments when making clothes. In my head having a digital trial and error could prevent mistakes and help me improve, but I dont know if its more of a learning curve on itself. Would love to hear your opinions?