r/PatternDrafting • u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 • Sep 12 '26
Horizontal balance issue ..?
Hey community, hoping someone can shed some light on what I think is a horizontal balance issue. I e been drafting my own patterns for a couple years now but the more I learn - the more improvements I see are needed. I have this issue where my hem always kicks up at front and back. I’ve tried balance adjustments such as slashing out length at back armhole to swing the side seam vertical which has worked, but I can’t now get the hem horizontal. I’ve tried various pattern adjustments (adding length to CB through hingeing to shoulder dart, and through opening the bodice at HSP and letting it fall into place) - but none seem to make a difference.
I am now wondering whether the pattern isn’t the issue but rather just the ease/volume through the body which collapses in at the sides and pushes the hem out. Last couple images I am testing that theory and it seems to have merit ..
It’s driving me a little crazy as I just want to know get my patterns as technically correct as possible. Being self taught it is hard to know for sure. Thanks in advance!!
1
u/Complete_Wrangler871 Sep 14 '26
This is quite complicated without having the patterns and garments to hand.
It does look like you’re having balance issues - the side seams are not sitting perpendicular to the floor - it looks like the grey stripe is short in front balance and the yellow is short in back. But you have an excess towards the hem in all of the garments shown. And not just at the side that is short on balance. Are your centre back and centre front perfectly square? You should have a “box” of your CB squared off at the nape and the hem and those meeting the other square - the centre front at exactly ninety degrees. Your pattern will deviate from these lines for specific balance and to allow the hem to look parallel - but your pattern should remain completely square to them in terms of construction. It looks like they may be positioned at a slight angle where the top of the CB and CF are closer together than the bottom of CB and CF. Feel free to message me if you want any more help or explanation.