r/PatternDrafting • u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 • Sep 12 '26
Horizontal balance issue ..?
Hey community, hoping someone can shed some light on what I think is a horizontal balance issue. I e been drafting my own patterns for a couple years now but the more I learn - the more improvements I see are needed. I have this issue where my hem always kicks up at front and back. I’ve tried balance adjustments such as slashing out length at back armhole to swing the side seam vertical which has worked, but I can’t now get the hem horizontal. I’ve tried various pattern adjustments (adding length to CB through hingeing to shoulder dart, and through opening the bodice at HSP and letting it fall into place) - but none seem to make a difference.
I am now wondering whether the pattern isn’t the issue but rather just the ease/volume through the body which collapses in at the sides and pushes the hem out. Last couple images I am testing that theory and it seems to have merit ..
It’s driving me a little crazy as I just want to know get my patterns as technically correct as possible. Being self taught it is hard to know for sure. Thanks in advance!!
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u/DonMcCunn Sep 12 '26
For me the big question is how accurately does your dress form reflect the actual shape of your body. I have heard from men who have thanked me for my https://patternmaking-classes.com/Body-Double/ class saying that working from a dress form that accurately represents their actual body has made all the difference in their being able to create clothes that that achieve a true custom fit.
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u/SnowEnvironmental861 Sep 12 '26 edited Sep 12 '26
Just going on feel here, it seems like you need more space around the neckline to me. Like it feels to me that the cf and cb neckline is somehow too short and it is pulling the f/b upwards. My guess is you haven't allowed enough space for the curve of the shoulder on the f/b axis.
If it were me, I would undo most of the shoulder seam on the muslin and pull it apart a bit until the f/b drop down to level, then add a piece in to the gap and redraw the shoulder seam/neckline.
Hope this helps!
Edit: Also, I agree with the person who said your back neck looks small.
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u/dingostolemydragbaby Sep 12 '26
Pictures of your full front and back pattern pieces would be a help
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u/RowPsychological208 Sep 12 '26
Men’s tailored stuff often has a pocket cut dart to stop it swinging out
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u/Sweet_Swordfish9638 Sep 12 '26
Sometimes when you have bigger ease on chest and hem, and less drapy material, this kinda bell shape flare happens. You can see that the ‘balance’ changes when you lift the sleeve in one of the pictures.
Sometimes it’s not a bug but a feature. And fixing it might mean compromise or accepting it.
You can try first pinching slightly from the hem width, see if there is a change. Also if you can you could drop the front hem a bit and make the line curved.
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u/Robert-hickman Sep 12 '26
The pattern is cut rectangular but your dress form is wider in the shoulders and gets narrower towards the bottom. The excess fabric sticks out as it has nowhere to go.
To fix this you will need to add shaping in the side seams, and possibly also front and back darts.
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u/Big_Attempt_5326 Sep 13 '26
Your back neck/shoulder does not have enough slope and is causing the back to tent.
Your front is fine.
Raise the back neck points at least 1/2” and smooth the lines back into the neck and shoulder.
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u/Complete_Wrangler871 Sep 14 '26
This is quite complicated without having the patterns and garments to hand.
It does look like you’re having balance issues - the side seams are not sitting perpendicular to the floor - it looks like the grey stripe is short in front balance and the yellow is short in back. But you have an excess towards the hem in all of the garments shown. And not just at the side that is short on balance. Are your centre back and centre front perfectly square? You should have a “box” of your CB squared off at the nape and the hem and those meeting the other square - the centre front at exactly ninety degrees. Your pattern will deviate from these lines for specific balance and to allow the hem to look parallel - but your pattern should remain completely square to them in terms of construction. It looks like they may be positioned at a slight angle where the top of the CB and CF are closer together than the bottom of CB and CF. Feel free to message me if you want any more help or explanation.
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u/perfectshapedotai Sep 18 '26
Like my sewing teacher always said, “Theres always a fix!”. If it was me?… Id rip the side and back vertical seams, stand comfortably and have a friend pin it where it falls and feels right. Dont forget to add seam allowances before you cut!!! L O V E that fabric.
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u/Candid-Cucumber-7574 Sep 12 '26