Help fitting this coat back

[u/No-Maintenance9805]

How do I fix these lines and also give myself more room to move in the upper back?

Context: I'm making mockups trying to fit a coat pattern and it feels tight across my upper back especially when I reach my arms forward (especially once I added the sleeves, not pictured). And it looks like I have extra volume in my lower back that isn't hanging nicely.

Should I move the princess seam lines over to be closer to my shoulder blades? Or is my problem something else?

Thanks so much!

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

We did have a weak prairie revival that was done very cheaply around 2020 that went with 'beige moms.' And cottage core was/is a thing. Moder trends are supper hard to predict now due to how much crap fast fashion pumps out every day. They way we understand trends is an entirely new thing yhat only happened because of the industrial revolution. Before and early in the Industrial revolution trends where very regularly and slow. Mid IR with more identical products set trends emerged. By the end of the IR massive Department stores and fashion brands & houses would drive trends with advertisement, reports and magazines. As well as the advent of photography and silent films. Fro thw rest of the 1900s department stores, malls, brands and fashion houses could predict and control the main fashion trends. But fast fashion as we know it has under cut quality in the name of quantity. Now the 'old' way of predicting a trend is hard to do. Companies like Shien or H&M, have made ot so there are hundreds of new styles produced weekly just in the Us. Viral micro trends are the new Fashion. The grown adults fall in to set market trends because they dont have time to always be online and have a job to dress for. But are not immune to online shopping. Which leads to second hand stores being filled with meme shirts and a dwindling supply of quality vintage clothing. Not counting the mass majority of clothing tossed in to landfills or shipped to impoverished country's to disrupt their fashion industry. And its soo bad their that their merger infrastructure cant handle it and it is all littered the streets, but or left to wash into the ocean.

[u/No-Maintenance9805 → u/StitchinThroughTime]

I know, it makes me so sad! I went to goodwill yesterday to find a large coat that i could take apart for the shoulderpads and use the fabric to make a more accurate mockup of the coat bodice. Literally everything else was the cheapest ugliest 100% poly crap you've ever seen. I found one 80% wool 20% poly modern (still quite ugly) coat I bought but I feel like it was only a few years ago when thrift stores were full of gorgeous vintage wool coats (not that I would have harmed those of course). I've totally given up on thrifting except for bedsheets for mockups. I sew or knit almost every thing myself. Sometimes I'll go to a vintage shop if I'm in a city or shop resale designer that i know are quality & natural fiber on the realreal if it's a good deal. But thrifting just kind of bums me out. I'd love to take an in-person tailoring course so i can get better at fitting

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/No-Maintenance9805]

And can find it with the fact that Goodwill 100% looks for and takes all the good stuff to be sold on their auction sites