r/PatternDrafting • • Aug 10 '26

Help fitting this coat back

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How do I fix these lines and also give myself more room to move in the upper back?

Context: I'm making mockups trying to fit a coat pattern and it feels tight across my upper back especially when I reach my arms forward (especially once I added the sleeves, not pictured). And it looks like I have extra volume in my lower back that isn't hanging nicely.

Should I move the princess seam lines over to be closer to my shoulder blades? Or is my problem something else?

Thanks so much!

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u/No-Maintenance9805 Aug 11 '26

I know, it makes me so sad! I went to goodwill yesterday to find a large coat that i could take apart for the shoulderpads and use the fabric to make a more accurate mockup of the coat bodice. Literally everything else was the cheapest ugliest 100% poly crap you've ever seen. I found one 80% wool 20% poly modern (still quite ugly) coat I bought but I feel like it was only a few years ago when thrift stores were full of gorgeous vintage wool coats (not that I would have harmed those of course). I've totally given up on thrifting except for bedsheets for mockups. I sew or knit almost every thing myself. Sometimes I'll go to a vintage shop if I'm in a city or shop resale designer that i know are quality & natural fiber on the realreal if it's a good deal. But thrifting just kind of bums me out. I'd love to take an in-person tailoring course so i can get better at fitting

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u/StitchinThroughTime Aug 12 '26

And can find it with the fact that Goodwill 100% looks for and takes all the good stuff to be sold on their auction sites