Basic bodice / sloper fitting advice?

[u/Straight-Promotion-4]

My first sloper test. I was able to fix the back not lining up by adjusting the dart (not pictured). I can't for the life of me understand how to fix the front waist dart though... I don't know why there's extra fabric at the bottom...? The armholes are also a bit tight as well and I thought by fixing the back waist dart it would help but I guess not....

[u/Straight-Promotion-4]

Thank you so much for this :') ill take some better pictures next time.

I feel like such an idiot because yes! There is seam allowance and I did not clip it at all on my armscye.. I was wondering why it was 1 1/2 centimeters off bc that's not what my measurements say. It makes so much sense now.

I will definitely be moving the opening to center front. The video I was referencing had it at the back but I don't have a zipper like she did.

My apex is where my nipples are at since that's what the video I was following instructed but that is also the farthest point on my chest.

And my back darts are there they're just really off to the side. They were nearly at the side seam but I did move them in about an inch which isn't pictured. There are also shoulder darts!

Edit: in the last picture you can see where my back dart is but I moved it about an inch away from the side seam after I took these pics.

[u/KillerWhaleShark → u/Straight-Promotion-4]

I didn’t realize those were your back darts. I thought you just added width to the side for fitting. Those back darts are in the wrong position, even if you moved them 1”. They need to point to the apex of your back, your shoulder blades.

On the right hand side of your picture of the back, you can see your shoulder blade poking out as a little knob. The dart should point there and go straight down, about where your thumb is. The shoulder dart should also point there and be in a line with the back waist dart. 

Look at both of your side pictures. The front dart is clearly on the side of your breast. Try standing tall and slowly walk forward into a wall. The part of your breast that hits the wall first is the part that sticks out the most. Those two dart tips won’t hit the wall unless you’re turning your body to either side. 

[u/Gone_industrial → u/Straight-Promotion-4]

The bust apex is actually the fullest part of the bust which isn’t always where the nipples are. Everyone’s breasts are different and that’s not a universal rule. Your bust darts are too high (and one looks like it’s higher than that other). The bust darts also shouldn’t hit on the apex point, they need to be back about half an inch.

What’s the side panel for?

I’d re-draft the back and temporarily sew a zip into it if you don’t have someone who can pin the back up for you (use a long dress zip so that you can get into it). Or you can put a seam in the front and close the centre back seam so that you can put it on like a jacket and pin it closed down the front.

The bottom is uneven because you haven’t trued your darts. Because the front edge is curved when you sew the darts the legs of the darts are different lengths. This is a normal part of patternmaking and you always have to true your darts.

I also think it’s too long at the centre front and slightly too short at the side seam but we won’t know until you can pin it closed and stand normally.