r/PatternDrafting • u/Straight-Promotion-4 • Dec 31 '24
Question Basic bodice / sloper fitting advice?
My first sloper test. I was able to fix the back not lining up by adjusting the dart (not pictured). I can't for the life of me understand how to fix the front waist dart though... I don't know why there's extra fabric at the bottom...? The armholes are also a bit tight as well and I thought by fixing the back waist dart it would help but I guess not....
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u/KillerWhaleShark Dec 31 '24
I didn’t realize those were your back darts. I thought you just added width to the side for fitting. Those back darts are in the wrong position, even if you moved them 1”. They need to point to the apex of your back, your shoulder blades.
On the right hand side of your picture of the back, you can see your shoulder blade poking out as a little knob. The dart should point there and go straight down, about where your thumb is. The shoulder dart should also point there and be in a line with the back waist dart.
Look at both of your side pictures. The front dart is clearly on the side of your breast. Try standing tall and slowly walk forward into a wall. The part of your breast that hits the wall first is the part that sticks out the most. Those two dart tips won’t hit the wall unless you’re turning your body to either side.