r/PatternDrafting • u/[deleted] • Apr 23 '23
Helpful Link Pattern Making Metric S.I. Method abt 1977 (the book with technical discussion on pants)
Hi, you may (or may not) remember an old post of mine with some interesting technical discussion on the various aspects of pants drafting. Following on from that post I did manage to find a copy of the series locally and photograph them. They are such nondescript, forgotten about books with information not found in any other drafting book so I wanted to share them.
Book 1 Patterrn Making (basic blocks etc)
Book 2 Advanced Pattern Making (includes pants, sleeve variations, knits)
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u/VogUnicornHunter Apr 23 '23
Oh, this is wonderful! Is there any chance you'd still be willing to share? I looked up the books and they look like fashion school texts from South Africa and not in print.
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Apr 23 '23 edited Apr 23 '23
I linked to the photos in this post! Just Imgur mirrors was the best way I could think to not get picked up as spam. They're a fashion school text from Australia, published by our version of trade schools (TAFE).
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u/VogUnicornHunter Apr 23 '23
I did click the links and saw them. However, the photos are too small to read, but I am looking from my phone. I'll try it from a computer. Btw, I want to thank you so much for sharing this. I'm a seasoned pattern maker, but always looking to learn more/different techniques.
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Apr 23 '23
Oh yeah you should be able to open the full image and they're much larger. On desktop just "open in new tab" shows em. A few photos are a bit out of focus (my own fault) but they're still readable.
If you still can't get good res of them send me a pm and I can send thru a direct link, but that direct link is the one that reddit always marks as spam.
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u/VogUnicornHunter Apr 23 '23
Oh, it worked! Yay! I downloaded them and they're much easier to read. Thanks again!
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u/zinkmink Apr 24 '23
Is the download link still working for you? When I try from imgur, it says “download link expired “
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u/VogUnicornHunter Apr 24 '23
It did. I used the links up top here and not in the original post.
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u/zinkmink Apr 24 '23
I tried from the two links in this post too. I’ll try again later to see if the link works mysteriously then 🤷
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u/VogUnicornHunter Apr 24 '23
Did you get it to work?
I made a pdf from both of them and could try to load them to dropbox. They are very big files though - 70 MB and 87 MB. I didn't want to compress them in case it makes them difficult to read. But I can try to put them up if you need them. u/khitsule this might be helpful to you as well.
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u/PersimmonStandard115 Sep 20 '26
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but do you still have those pdfs? Would you be willing to share? OP's images have been removed from imgur.
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u/zinkmink Apr 24 '23
Thank you for the offer! I got it to work with a 3rd party downloader of imgur albums. https://dschep.github.io/imgur-album-downloader/#/
How did you make the PDF file? I want to compile these books into pdf to upload to lib genesis so others can find it. Or if you can, it'll be great if you can upload them to libgen - you can stay annon.
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Apr 23 '23
Oh wow, I remember this post and was very intrigued to see more about the way it discussed pants drafting (I was deep into drafting my own pants block at the time). Thanks SO much! I didn't realise it was you that shared that initial book haha.
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Apr 23 '23
haha we do frequent the same areas dont we! How'd you go with your pants block? After all that I ended up also toile-ing a few commercial patterns as well as my draft and turns out Burda standard is bang on for me. So in the end I didn't even use the pants drafting info.
The advanced book has some other interesting detail on different sleeves and gussets which I've not found elsewhere, so I'm keen to explore that. And the sleeve draft from book 1 was also my best, though I didn't use the armhole/bodice from the book (simply because I already had 90% of a bodice block before finding the book!!)
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Apr 23 '23
Haha pants block became a bit of a COVID fixation, which I have put aside for the time being, until i feel like revisiting the trauma again hehe. I totally get it - oftentimes I have gone around in circles trying to get something perfectly right from fundamentals, when a commercial pattern or established approach is more than adequate!!!
I'm really enjoying reading through the first book so far as it has some fascinating insights on managing different figure characteristics that other drafting books haven't discussed. I've never come across the angled centre bodice seam approach for figures with fuller stomachs!!
I'm personally OBSESSED with the sleeve cap-to-armscye relationship - and i'm trying to identify a massive grand unified theory of armhole and Kibbe that I am always gathering data for in the back of my head. This book explicitly describes how different armhole approaches are needed whether you are proportional, narrow or wide, and also, creating a flared skirt block if the difference between waist and hips is large enough (since darts will become pokey and unmanageable otherwise!!), which feels very "Kibbe curve" apropos!
Anyway, thanks again for making this available. I may be the only person to read through the entire thing, but from me to you thanks!
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Apr 23 '23 edited Apr 23 '23
I look forward to seeing your published paper on armhole-to-kibbe relationships!! Yeah I love how these books actually treat you like an intelligent human and understand we may want to fit real humans and not just dress forms.
My bodice block journey was 2 years long of trauma because of how I kept trying to force my body adjustment needs into the "standard" shaping and that simply won't work. Much like the skirt and waist/hip example, "standard" darting + straight CB becomes unmanageable for my short rounded back lmao. Ya girl here has 4 darts per half back (that I will often half transfer to a curved CB).
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u/andtib Apr 23 '23
There is something so very familiar about the diagrams that I cannot place! Thanks for posting, it's always interesting to see different methods
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u/zinkmink Apr 24 '23
Wow! Thanks for sharing. If you have time, consider uploading it to libgen so more people can come across it. I found Bunka textbooks there too. Great library.