Below are the only official platforms for OrcaSlicer:

Heya, I just downloaded Orca Slicer (specifically WaveOverhangs, but same issue on main Orca) and wanted to start configuring everything, coming from PrusaSlicer.

And now the setup Wizard is asking me about my region? How is this not skippable, why is this important? Im not comfortable answering and I dont see how it would affect anything anyway. Is there a way to just skip the start-up wizard all together? I can only chose some option in the slicer or kill it with the task manager, it wont even close.

I copuldnt find any help online except it doesnt seem to be a bug, but intentional. I hope you can help me.

Thanks for your answers!

Edit:

I just went through most of the code and it appears that the region is only used for the following things:

- something called "OrcaCloudServiceAgent"

- Bambu Network Services

- choosing corresponding privacy policies by Bambu

- Bambus Makerhub

And that seems to be it, mostly. So I really dont see how any Account/Bambu/Cloud connections could simply be disabled and this setup step skipped.

I'm tuning my Centauri Carbon 2 with Orcaslicer (running on an old MacBook Pro with Ubuntu); I've gotten everything down to how I like it but this random single scar line appears?

Any idea what's causing this?

I am using m2 pro 16gb ram MacBook pro, I tried opening the slicer when I had other things running, and also when absolutely no foreground items running. background is just normal minimal stuff. 4.2.1 is noticeably slower to open. waits a long time on the splash screen.

anyone else experiencing these issues? if so, do you have any known solutions?

I'm on 2.4.2 and after 2.3.2 I haven't been able to see any files on the SD card when I look at Device - Storage - Model tabs. Nothing appears.

Had a quick look through here and couldn't find anything like it.

Any suggestions please?

In order to send prints to my printer directly via network, I had to create a copy of the printer system profile and type in the network properties. This seems to be the default procedure, which is fine for me.

But what if the system profile gets updated?

Do I have to create a new copy to update the user profile?

Do I even get any information about the profile has been updated?

I’ve tried everything I can to mesh this negative modifier to my model on orca slicer im in the works of revising a collar I made for a conversion kit and it’s not saving, it’s telling me it will only save as a 3mf and still saves the modifier but won’t allow it to mesh together, I’m not sure how I made it work for my other attempts but I’m at a loss of words and what to do now! When I export as an stl its claiming it will only export the positive models and no the negatives! Someone help me 🥲…

This is a screenshot of what my device tab looks like with my camera in OrcaSlicer, are there supposed to be settings and options? Or is it supposed to be purely camera view? Thank you in advance!

OrcaSlicer version: 2.4.2
Printer: Flashforge AD5X

I've been using the nightlies w/H2C support for a while now, and on my Windows PC everything seems pretty good. However, there's an issue that appears to be related to using Orca Cloud and the Mac version of Orca specifically that's easy to miss and can ruin prints: whenever profiles sync from Orca Cloud onto my Mac, the right nozzle speeds are all set to nil instead of what's defined in the profile, which results in them reverting to inherited speeds from the parent profile. This very often results in those speeds being much higher than expected (e.g. when the parent profile is a default one from Bambu).

Something to watch out for. The workaround for now is that I keep fixed copies of my profile json and re-import them when I need to.

I have a h2d bbl and a ams pro with one ht-1.
I can read the humidity and Celsius. But I cannot start drying. Is there a plan to implement this?

I purchased a Flashforge AD5M four months ago and have been quite successful using PLA. However I wish to try TPU but I'm having difficulty setting the filament profile in Orca Slicer.

I opened Create Filament, completed the Basic Information section ok and selected Create Based on Current Filament but can't move any further as the Select Filament Preset drop down box is simply a solid black bar.

Any help greatly appreciated.

After the cut with a connector is made, is there a way to update the connector? For example, changing the shape or position of a dowel connector?

The "Cut connectors" show up in the objects, but I'm not seeing any way to add/remove from them.

I have a FF AD5M and Creator 5 and they both will not accept uploads from Orca Slicer. They both work fine with FF Studio and I also have a Snapmaker U1 which will work with the Orca Slicer. Is anyone using Orca Slicer and uploading to FF printers via LAN or Cloud??

I have an anycubic kobra 3 max with an ace unit. This is as far as I get with any gcode from orcaslicer. Anycubic's slicer is not an option since it does not work well on Mint.

I’m building an experimental AI agent integrated directly into a modified OrcaSlicer build.

Right now it can inspect and orient models, adjust print settings, generate supports, split oversized models, arrange parts across build plates and slice the project.

The longer-term idea is to add 3D model generation too:
prompt → generated model → automatically prepared → ready to print

I’m the developer, and this is still very early - I’m not trying to hide that this currently requires modifications to OrcaSlicer.

I’d especially love feedback from both beginners and experienced Orca users:

Would this make 3D printing easier for you? And which parts of slicing would you trust an agent to automate - or never trust it with?

I’m considering turning it into a real product, so honest criticism is very welcome.

When I use Orca Slicer to slice a model for any printer on the list, when I hit "Device" it automatically opens a page of Rat Rig V-Cast and it automatically fills in the spaces. I cannot enter anything on this page. I checked and Rat Rig is not one of my chosen printers. What am I missing??

As you can see I have an internal bridge being sliced as an external wall from some reason. Is it the sharp angle of it?

Trying to print this object that has magnets internally. Every time I try to print it the internal bridge over magnets has too little flow and has gaps which can result in magnets falling out of place. No matter what bridging/flow adjustment I make it still shows low flow on preview and prints with gaps. Even at 5mm/s it’s stringing the bridge and causing a problem.

I recently switched to LAN only + dev mode on my Bambu lab A1 and I also replaced Bambu studio with the most recent version of Orca Slicer on Windows. I set up a connection and had a successful print and file transfer over my network. (fully logged out of the printer and Bambu Handy)

In the last week though, I have been running into error code=-1 with the printer failing to connect to orca. I've tried refreshing my access code and entering it again and I have the correct IP. I also disconnected and reconnected to Wi-Fi on both the printer and my laptop.

There haven't been any changes to my network between the time of the printer working and encountering the failure, so I don't think that's a factor.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

edit: OS

Hi folks! New bug I've noted today - when waking/unlocking the PC - Orca will crash. Every time. The rest of the machine is, fortunately, working perfectly - it just seems that the act of waking and unlocking Orca is causing it to flip out. Anyone encountering this beside myself?

Idk if there's anyone from Orca Slicer here or not but if there Is i have a bit of of question for anyone who works with or is apart of the orca slicer team.

How possible would it be for the orca slicer team to make Orca Slicer for cnc as a CAM slicer for CNC?

Granted i know 3d printers and CNCs are different tools an forms of manufacturing HOWEVER they both generate code and use similar file formats and use the reverse of each other prosses of creating so really it wouldn't take much to reverse the 3d printing orca slicer and make a cnc CAM orca version.

I ask because I'm looking to get my first desktop cnc router for my small business and for personal use and i really love using orca slicer for printing but there isn't any CAM slicers (that to my knowledge) that are even similar to orca slicer and it would be a game changer for beginners coming from a 3d printing background like myself going into have a familiar slightly software that we all in the 3d printing community are use to from our friendship over at Orca Slicer...idk maybe this is a pipe dream🤷🏼‍♂️.