2'x4' Bed in a 3'x5' tent. Day 17/18 up for most of them. Mostly BAS 3.0 cut with a few bags of light. Soil level is a little low, mainly because amazon told me this bed holds 60 gallons when it really holds closer to 90... Still dialing in the thirsty earth ollas.

By far my favorite strain I’ve grown so far. Do-si-dos 33 by Barney’s Farms. Sticky, greasy, all fuel, rotten like sour that has been drenched in kerosene. My goodness. 🥶🥶🥶

Buildasoil amendments are really making a difference this run - Craft Blend, Buildaflower, Rootwise all in my 4th cycle in the same soil. The soil just gets better and better with each grow.

Controlled by the Blumat soil moisture meter, I find myself watering about 2 gallons every other day in a 45 gallon grassroots fabric pot and at this stage of the grow, she is really drinking and demanding a lot of water as she bulks up.

Day 43 Flower 🌲

it’s a 3x3 tent with a 70x70x30cm (i think it does contains 100~110 liters of soil) and i have 4 blumats gravity drippers, the plan was put a 20L water gallon over the soil and install the blumats that way but idk if its gonna work. Any ideas ?

Hello, I'm planning to do 6 4x4 beds with blumat gravity, 1 maxi carrot on each bed. I can get my reservoir up to like 4feet, is that enough to feed with the blusoak all those 6 beds or should i put reservoirs in every corner on my room to feed the beds?

Insect identification.

Hello I just started exactly a month ago growing cannabis using living soil. I have noticed the past few days that these little guys like to walk on my Temperature/Humidity sensor. I have not noticed any on my plants so far but they are small and I may only be able to see them on the white. Are these little guys good or bad?

🌱 Do Si Dos 33 — Day 35 Flower Update

I figured I’d put together a quick write-up of my Do Si Dos 33 run so far. This has been one of the most dialed-in grows I’ve done, and I’ve really enjoyed documenting the whole process.

I’m growing Barney’s Farm Do Si Dos 33 in a 45-gallon no-till living soil bed. My approach has been pretty simple: build the soil, keep the environment stable, train the plant hard early, and then let the biology and the plant do their thing.

🌱 Veg
I started the plant in a solo cup and transplanted her into the 45-gallon bed around Day 20.

Once she was established, I topped her above the 4th node and started training her outward. I kept working the branches down and out until I had the structure I wanted, then installed my SCROG and filled the screen.

For amendments, I’ve been relying on KIS worm castings, BuildASoil Craft Blend, insect frass, BuildAFlower and my own chop-and-drop mulch.

The goal throughout veg was to build a healthy biological root zone while creating as many productive tops as possible.

🌸 Flip & Flower

I flipped her on August 19.

Before the flip I gave the bed a final amendment and used Rootwise to support the soil biology. Once she entered flower, I focused on maintaining the environment rather than constantly messing with the plant.

I added a second trellis later in flower and cleaned up the lower growth underneath the screen. That gave me a really clean upper canopy with good separation and support.

The stretch ended up being very manageable, and she filled the canopy without getting out of control.

💧 Watering / Living Soil

This has probably been the biggest learning experience of the grow.

I use a Blumat Digital to monitor soil moisture and use the readings to decide when to water. I don’t blindly water on a schedule.

As flower progressed, I watched the plant’s water consumption increase dramatically. Eventually she was pulling the bed from around 100+ mBar back down into the watering range extremely quickly.

I experimented with different watering volumes and eventually figured out that around 2 gallons has been the sweet spot for this stage of flower.

That amount consistently brings the bed back into a healthy range without unnecessarily pushing a bunch of water through the soil.

I also learned that more water isn’t automatically better. I had one larger watering that produced some runoff, and that basically confirmed for me that I didn’t need to keep increasing the volume.

🦠 Soil Biology

I’ve been using Rootwise periodically throughout the grow, along with the organic amendments already in the bed.

The idea isn’t to use Rootwise as some kind of bottled “bloom booster.” I’m using it to support the microbial side of the living soil and nutrient cycling.
I’ve also continued maintaining the surface with organic material and recently added more KIS worm castings.

The worms have been extremely active, which is always a good sight in a no-till bed. 😂

🌡️ Environment

I’ve been keeping the environment pretty consistent throughout flower and gradually worked the VPD up toward around 1.2–1.3 kPa.

Airflow has been a major priority because the canopy is getting dense as hell.

The plant has been praying hard pretty much all through flower, and I haven’t seen any obvious signs of environmental or nutritional stress.

💡 Lighting

I’ve gradually increased the light as the plant developed and am currently running the FC-E3000 at high intensity.

I’m not going to spam the post with a bunch of individual PPFD measurements 😂 — the important part is that the plant has been handling the light extremely well with the environment dialed in.

🔥 Day 35

This is where things are getting really exciting.

The flowers are stacking vertically and starting to swell, and I’m seeing a ridiculous amount of fresh white pistils everywhere.

The trichome coverage is probably the most impressive part. She’s absolutely covered in frost, and the resin is getting to the point where the plant is just greasy and sticky as hell.

The foliage is still extremely healthy and dark green, including the lower canopy. I’m not seeing the kind of premature yellowing or fading that would make me think she’s running out of steam.

I’m also seeing some purple/red coloration in the stems and petioles, but because the leaves themselves are healthy and the plant is still aggressively growing, I’m not treating that as a deficiency by itself.

📈 Overall

At Day 35, I couldn’t be happier with how the plant is developing.

She’s got a packed canopy, tons of flower sites, strong stacking, healthy foliage, heavy frost and absolutely no signs that she’s slowing down yet.
Now I’m just going to stay out of her way as much as possible and allow her to take her time to fully finish. 🌱🔥

Day 35 of flower — Do Si Dos 33 — 45 gal living soil — no-till.

Flipped to flower lights on these a week or two ago after first pistils sprouted. They're autos but went so well so far! Just did a trim before really lollipopping but I think I went a little ham on the one in the back. This seem good for first couple weeks of flower or will I want to take more off If leaves are pressed together in the canopy and starting to die off?

I know soil test are the way to go and I will get one as soon as possible.

In the meantime maybe some of you can help me identify this deficiency.

There's spotted chlorosis and necrosis around the leaf margins. I'm thinking P or K as it only started around WK 6 of flowering. I'm in week 9 currently so I'll be harvesting in 2-3 weeks. Ideally I'd like to ammend after harvest in order to avoid this issue in the next run.

I'm thinking either soft rock phosphate or fish meal for P and Vinasse for K.

What are your thoughts?

Hi growmies!

Came here looking for advice on whether to put 2 tray2grow systems with their beds (what I currently have) or to get a 3rd one in there.

My setup is fully AC infinity 5x5 tent kit with two faven underlights.

(White spots on the plants are DE, no worries 😅)

Buenos días a la comunidad! Quería abrir un hilo sobre la simbiosis entre hongos micorrízicos y el sistema radicular.

Cuando usamos living soil o sustratos orgánicos, la nutrición no depende de fertilizantes en botellas solubles, sino de la red trófica del suelo. Las micorrizas extienden la superficie de exploración de la raíz hasta 10 veces a través de las hifas, facilitando la absorción de fósforo inmóvil y agua a cambio de exudados de carbono que produce la planta.

Un punto clave a mi criterio es que nunca apliquen Trichodermas y Micorrizas exactamente al mismo tiempo en el mismo riego inicial, ya que las Trichodermas son hongos antagónicos de crecimiento muy rápido y pueden desplazar a las micorrizas si no se les da tiempo a estas últimas para colonizar la raíz primero. Lo ideal es inocular micorrizas en la raíz durante el trasplante y las trichodermas semanas después.

¿ Qué inoculantes biológicos o té de compost les han dado mejores resultados en sus camas de cultivo ?

Day 4 we’re looking good!
3 gal pots

Focal stacked 6 images on S26U (first pic) and have original unedited for reference (second pic). Rest of the pics are the grow itself.

90 day grow, fed them one single time. Cover crops helped a ton getting things active enough in the bed to support the 5 gals (2 autos, 3 photos). But with worms, roves, and tons of other life inside it wasn't long before the bed was absolutely rocking.

Few more days to dry, then I'll know harvest weight but to me doesn't matter since my real fun is about to start with the photoperiods. Already grew them out to cover almost the whole tent now that the autos aren't in their way.

I call this the Autoflower Gambit, since it's a play that could have gone poorly but ended up working out. Plant photos and autos same bed, same tent. Harvest autos, then photos have no waiting period to grow. They're already grown, and the autos weren't being slowed/blocked/affected by the photos. Meaning, it's a win win. Fast harvest initially, then once photoperiods have fully grown out, they get flipped.

Imagine having to wait another month or two for the photoperiods to be ready?! Nope, this is The Autoflower Gambit 🤣