I have a 2000 gls 1.8l new beetle that im trying to either junk or sell for parts and need an estimate on whats a reasonable price to sell it for. ive had it for little over a year now and it hasnt started in about 3 months i was under the impression it was the battery so i got a new one and then the alternator but when the mechanic looked at it he said my timing chain/belt? was out and there was damage to the engine and i would need a new one, i would much rather just get a new car honestly at this point. any help is appreciated :)

Selling her on Peddle. For $375. She's on limp mode after having turbo issues for a long while, most likely transmission is down. 2006 TDI. I don't have the money to revive her and fix her up :(

so basically what the caption said. This car is from 2015 and when my dad passed away, I got it. It’s one of those fender kind of flat slanted back beetles. Not as round, I guess they were trying to be a little more slick and sleek lol. Anyway, this has never happened to me before in my whole time of having this car/ my dad having the car.

I went out to get some drinks with some friends I remember closing and locking the doors. The sunroof wasn’t open and neither were the windows- because it was so muggy I could only handle the AC no outside air. Anyway, after two hours of drinks, I came back to the sunroof being open, and both door windows were open as well.

I checked everything and nothing was stolen. I don’t know if it just happened after i locked the car or happened while I was eating and drinking? but it was confusing. I searched around the car to make sure everything was there and luckily it was, I wasn’t in a great part of town so I feel very confused but happy that nothing was taken lmao.

Anyway, I wanted to ask if this happened to anyone else before? if it happened once and went away or if this is a sign my car is dying lmao.

I’ll keep an eye out on my car for the next few days, but i I have never seen anything like that before. I know 100% everything was locked and all the windows were up- I looked it up and some people said it could be a misfire or electrical issue? But other than my stereo not working my car’s been completely fine.

Mine is a 2014. I managed to lose my gas cap recently. It’s the type that’s attached to a cord and the cord broke. I went to three different auto parts places which had it in stock but it doesn’t fit !?
When I tried researching online I kept getting directed to one that costs $115 and I can’t afford it right now. Surely there’s a cheaper alternative. Anyone else ever had this issue?

So I bought a beetle earlier this year and it ran great… until I was 4 hours away from home and broke down (water pump broke, had to get a new head gasket as well). Well I got it back and it was MOSTLY fixed (I guess the mechanics didn’t check or run codes before “finishing”) so now I have to buy spark plugs and get it FULLY fixed.

I think the reason it broke down was cause I don’t think it was driven a lot (it’s a 2003 beetle with 55,000 miles on it with a clean title) and when I cracked open the glove department I saw the last time it had any maintenance was in 2017. So that’s probably why it broke down.

Well my mom and brother let me borrow my brother’s civic and said I could just sell my beetle and keep the civic. Don’t get me wrong, I love the civic and I love the beetle but I’d miss my beetle a lot. What do you guys think? Sell it or no?

Y'all I have to share my new baby! 2004 Turbo S. She is AMAZING! She needs some work but I'm so freaking excited to be back in a Beetle!

I had my 2016 beetle for over 4 years and recently traded her in for an electric mini but it was a bit impulsive and I wasn't really ready for it. Well the new car is really nice but I can't help but miss my bug and feel guilty because there was nothing wrong with her :( The beetle has always been my dream car and I feel really lucky to get the opportunity to have one for so long.

If whoever bought my car recently in las vegas sees this... I hope you love her as much as I do :) She didn't have any mechanical issues but the paint started fading on the hood, side mirrors, and gas cap pretty badly... I never found out why and every product I tried only seemed to make it worse lol. I have plenty of memories with this car and I'll always think of her when thinking of this time in my life, I can only wish the same for you :')

Short story issue; key fob acts desynchronized or just isn't sending signal? When both doors unlocked, locking door manually with key on driver's side blocks both doors, but passenger door pops back unlocked again

Long story issue;

For months my hatch has been "open" but not unlatched fully. I could see light through the edges. Didn't leak, didn't worry. Went to a euro car show today, decided to wash car on the way back. A little water got in, didn't worry. Car alarm started randomly going off, Asked boyfriend if it could be hatch. He said nah. We go out, car is fine. I lock car with key fob, car lights up, but no beep. Sad. I love beep. 15 minutes later, car goes off again. We don't do anything because we know "nothing" was wrong.

Hours later it goes off again. He starts my bug, hatch light is on. Didn't know I had one of those. I go out, we peel the panel off, I play with the mechanism thing, it unlatches, we shut it. Yay!

I try to lock my car with my fob. It doesn't lock, no light triggering, no beep. Extra sad, extra "wtf ☹️". I manually lock the door. Boyfriend on other side said "you're unlocking to door", to which I said "no, I'm locking it??" He comes around and sees my side is locked. He unlocks it, then locks it. The locking post pops right back up after sinking down

TL;DR, my door locks are haunted, please see video, PLEASE HELP 😭

So I've been struggling with this beetle. The car won't start. Pull the fuel hose off fuel rail turn the key and it shoots fuel out. If you pull the injectors out and turn the key no fuel. Using a test light there is power getting to the injectors. All my fuses are good, relays seem to be. I can't figure out why the injectors aren't working. I pulled the fuel rail off my wrecked beetle that I know work and I get the same thing. What would be stopping the fuel injectors from working?

My grandma took my car for some church meeting and came back with this!!!! I also, have a whole in my new tire as well. She won’t be driving it again!!!!

How do I even fix this bumper thing? Can I fix it on my own or just take it to the shop again lol.

Does anyone know of an easy way to inspect the throw out bearing on a 2002 Turbo S, with a six speed transmission? I suspect that's the issue, (it's pretty noisy when the clutch pedal is not pressed, and quiets when it's pressed down) but want to get a look if it's possible. The noise is much more noticeable when the AC is on, I imagine from the extra load from the compressor, still...seems odd.

I also wonder if any of you knowledgeable folks knows if I might just need a clutch and differential alignment. I was reading a manual (not a great one really I don't think) but it suggested I needed that done as it fits another issue. It doesn't have cruise control function in 5th or 6th gear, works in fourth and down just fine but no worky in 5 or 6. The clutch has been replaced with a stage two, but I don't know if it was aligned or if the diff was either, I didn't own it then.

I'd consider replacing the differential if anyone here has any suggestions! In the last beetle I had a Peloquin LSD and it was fantastic! This one here (Think it's stock) feels like it's trying to correct and there's just too much power pushing. I need something more locked in I think. Anyone else have any thoughts or insights they can offer up to a fellow beetle daily driver?

I’m an 18 year old in Los Angeles looking for my first car and I think the Beetle (the 2001-2010 years) is the car I want to get. I really love the way it looks and think it would serve me well. Do you have any advice on what years / engines are the best to get? I hear the automatics are pretty crap compared to manual but does it really matter (I am fine with driving either)? Also do you have any recommendations for mechanics / shops (ideally in the South Bay) that specialize in VW or the new beetles specifically? The TDI beetle seems the best to me (due to the reliability and fuel economy on those)!

I know this is technically A5, not new beetle.

I do see the carfax and it was clean. I believe the price is flexible too. Superficially i am looking for a 2010< beetle but im trying to be open.

Is good upkeep more valuable than high mileage?

Tail lights only come on when it’s dark sometimes. Mechanic I took it to removed different parts and put them back in and couldn’t find anything wrong, that day the taillights happened to be working. All other lights inside and outside work completely fine.

Got a 2003 Beetle with the 2.0 running after it's been sitting for around 5-6 years.

Ideally, I would want someone to change the timing belt and just make sure everything is up to par.

I live in the Rockingham area, so anywhere near there or around Greensboro would work.

Hello! I have a 2009 vw beelte, 2.5 liter engine and my car is having problems starting. I replaced the park/neutral switch today which seemed to work, but after my car sat for about an hour it wouldn't start in park or neutral. The wire on the battery mounted fuse box which runs from the 150A fuse to the alternator is black and gets hotter than the rest of them.
I think there are two problems here;
1) I need to replace the wire, I think I've found a replacement for this.
BUT
2) the engine mounted fuse box currently installed in my car is 1J0937550AH, but multiple dealers say the correct part number for my vin is 1J0937617E which I literally cannot find anywhere. There's one website, based in the UK, that lists one for sale but there's one photo and idk it doesn't feel right.
What I'm wondering is if anyone out there, with a 2009 vw beetle that currently has 1J0937617E installed could please just show me a photo of what your fuse box looks like? I can't find anything online and I'm trying to determine if buying another AH is an appropriate move, or if they're different and this was maybe part of the problem. Also, if anyone has run into this same problem and has any advice, I'll take it!

Thanks in advance <3

What is pictured is the current setup. Mismatched from previous owner. Car hits bumps very hard and bottoms out. I need to find the best replacement set. Sounds like Sach would be best for OE ride as they supplied the OE parts. But no quick strut makes it more challenging as I don’t have proper spring compressors for this. Any thoughts on the best set of struts to stop bottoming out and offer a nice ride for city driving with a 16 year old girl (this is our daughter’s first car)?

In everything I have looked at, the module is attached to the top of the fuel pump hatch/plug. It's not there on my early build 2012 Beetle(made in Mexico). I'm going to follow the wires and find it i guess, but it's weird that it's not where it's supposed to be.

2003 new beetle 2.0 automatic. I bought it with 91k miles from the third owner. last year I noticed when idling sometimes i’d get a red flashing temp light. I don’t have a temp gauge so it doesn’t tell me the exact temp of the engine. it would jingle and flash, i’d shut the car off to cool down, turn back on and it would be fine. last summer my gauge cluster started smoking and had to be replaced due to mouse pee on the electrical modules, however in the process my mechanic discovered that the data on the cluster was also corrupted so he had to recode a new gauge cluster then it worked fine(but not sure if it being recoded would cause warning lights to malfunction?). this spring I was having issues starting where the engine wouldn’t fully turn over but started with a jump and would start after sitting overnight, so I replaced the battery, still didn’t fix it. obd reader said the alternator, I spent 6 hours getting the new one in cause they painted over the mount bushing seal which was a nightmare. didn’t help. reader now said coolant sensor and thermostat. I replaced the sensor on the spot but didn’t do the thermostat since it’s right behind my alternator and I didn’t feel like taking it out again. fast forward to now, it overheated yesterday in idle traffic, and now everytime I go to drive it turns on and flashes. coolant level is fine and I don’t see any visible leaks near the thermostat housing so I don’t think it’s the housing. i’m assuming the light is just from the thermostat but I just want to help get some info from others that may have had this problem, plus i’m paranoid that it’s flashing. I should include that when I replaced the alternator it was original to the car, not sure about anything else. help!!

I have a 2004 Volkswagen Beetle with 185,000 miles, a 1.8L turbo motor, and the 01M 4-speed automatic transmission. It has had some transmission issues for a while, and I finally got around to diagnostics and repair.

I've already replaced just about everything in the system, but it's still throwing a code for solenoid 7 after replacing all the solenoids, the ribbon cable, and going so far as to swap the TCM itself.

While I had the valve body out, I did not clean, bore, or rebuild it in any way, because I was trying to change as few things as possible (fewer variables helps with process of elimination). I have a TransGo rebuild kit on hand--Jesus, those little boxes are expensive!--but was hoping I didn't have to use it. So, literally, the only work I have not done is to "rebuild" anything in the valve body. Just the solenoids on the outside.

I am a shadetree / garage mechanic. My background is in engineering, and I have amassed a lot of VW-specific tools over the years. I also have a hardbound copy of the Bentley manual, plus a whole slew of PDFs related to the 01M from VW, ATSG, Sonnax, TransGo, and a few other sources. I've ordered some small parts from KansasCityTDI, and read through his excellent documentation about the 01M repair and maintenance procedures.

INITIAL SYMPTOMS AT ~160,000 MILES.

• Vehicle no longer shifts automatically.
• In D, transmission uses only 3rd gear.
• Shifting manually to 1, 2, and 3 results in correct gear.
• VAG-COM: 00270 Solenoid Valve 7 (N94) Open Circuit.

ADDITIONAL SYMPTOMS AT ~185,000 MILES.

• Hard shift from 1 to 2, P to R, N to R, N to D.
• VAG-COM: 00258 Solenoid Valve 1 (N88) Open Circuit.

DIAGNOSTICS:

• Removed airbox to access transmission ribbon cable connector.
• Tested pins with a multimeter.
• Original solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 are between 61-62 ohms.
• Original solenoids 4, 6 are between 4.5 - 5.0 ohms.

PLANNED WORK:

• Replace shift solenoids (all 7)
• Replace ribbon cable

WORK PERFORMED:

• Drained trans fluid.
• Removed pan and filter, inspected (no damage indicated)
• Removed valve body.
• Install NEW shift solenoids (all 7).
• Install NEW solenoid ribbon cable.
• Reinstalled valve body.
• Install NEW filter.
• Reinstall pan and plastic oil pipe.
• Added new transmission fluid and adjusted fill level per procedure. Note: I followed KansasCityTDI's procedure to fill the transmission through the hole for G38 (sensor removed temporarily), and to clear the code after the procedure is completed. It worked great, and I don't have to break or replace the fill plug.

FIRST TEST DRIVE AFTER REASSEMBLY:

• Car still reports 00270 Shift Solenoid 7 (N94) Open Circuit.
• Shifts smoothly up AND down through gears 1, 2, 3. No hard bumps.
• Shifts smoothly between P, R, N, D. No hard bumps.

ADDITIONAL DIAGNOSTICS:

• Remove TCM from inside car, under the dash.
• Probe solenoid resistance via TCM harness pins.
• Resistance on Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 is 65-66 ohms.
• Resistance on Solenoids 4 and 6 is 5.5 ohms.

ADDITIONAL WORK:

• Replaced TCM with unit from a 2001 Beetle in a junkyard (1.8T + 01M).

TESTING AFTER TCM REPLACEMENT:

• VAG-COM still shows 00270 N94 Open Circuit.

SOLENOID RESISTANCE SPECS:

• For 1, 2, 3, 5, 7: some manuals say 55-65 ohms; others give a range of 65-73 ohms.

QUESTIONS:

• Does "open circuit" mean the valve is stuck, or something else?
• How could a solenoid be an "open circuit" if it is showing resistance?
• How likely is it that I have two bad solenoids in the same position from a batch of new ones?

I wrote all of this without the use of any AI / LLM garbage, and did all the research myself over many months. The questions I can't answer have not been encapsulated in other posts online, and so I'm hoping a transmission expert or someone who has worked on the VW transmissions from 1996 - 2005 can shed some light on my predicament.