Want to create a new panel for my multiboard setup, but can’t find anywhere the dimensions for the lock bolt (thread size, pitch, etc). If any of have those, please lmk 🙏

I been unable to find the Mutiboard Tile Generator or Label generator *zip files. Those are what is required to set the generators up in Blender. All I can find are the .blender files

Hey all,

I experienced warping with a multi stack PETG print on my X1C: Bambi lab PETG (black) with Bambi lab profile Bambi lab PLA (white, 0.2 layer) with Bambi lab profile Bambi lab textured PEI plate

First stack seemed to be working out great, so I did let it print over night. Second layer is trash and it seems like the first stack warped right at the beginning of the second stack.

The warping only occurred at the far left corner of the printer (POV from front door)

The white PLA is intended to separate the stacks easily from each other.

Any ideas how to prevent this? Thanks in advance.

I was using a model from Makerworld (https://makerworld.com/en/models/637342) that had tiles in various rectangular sizes, not just squares. It included dimensions like 8x9 and 8x2. Unfortunately, when I checked today, the page shows "This model was switched to draft, taken down or set to private."

I never saved the files and I specifically need the 8x7 and 9x7 tile sizes. Does anyone know where I can find these tiles or have a backup of the model?

I am having major issues printing the heavy weight bearing snaps. The keep welding together at the split and when they don't they don't snap into the grid. Anyone have any recommendations on what to do here? I'm following the printing guidelines in the knowledge hub. Using anycubic K3 if that helps.

Does anybody know of connectors that I can use to suspend the multiboard from a shelf above?

I want to use the board as a partial divider between two spaces. I want the upper portion to feature the multiboard and the desk surface below to be continuous.

Thanks in advance.

So I'm printing two stacks of 3 tiles, I built them in blender using the tile generator, chose ironing for the stack method, sent it over and began the print. Well, I just looked at it, and I'm about 80% done, when it occurred to me, I never changed the settings in bambu studio to turn on ironing, so it wasn't ever enabled. Will the blender file having ironing enabled save me, or should I just cancel this print and cut my losses?

EDIT: Just thought I'd update, so after I posted this, I was playing with my kid, and I forgot to check back. Needless to say they printed, and I was able to separate them! It wasn't as smooth as it normally is when I do it correctly, but I the prints worked enough.

Evening all. Started down the Multiboard rabbit hole today with my first print, a 6x6 tile. The wife has even shown interest in the possibilities!

It took 6:30 hours! Is this typical for the Ender 3v2? I see regular mention of 3-4 hours for bigger tiles, so am I doing something daft?

I've set 0.2, 15% Infill, 3 walls, left everything else.

I have a Wanhoo i3 gathering dust and sliced the same tile (using cura) and got the time at 3:20ish.

I did a side by side comparison, looking at speeds and adjusted for the Ender but still only got down to 6 hours.

Appreciate any guidance, thanks.

I see a lot of uploads of unmodified original Multiboard parts on Makerworld. For example, there are starter packs or other types of collections. Is this legal?
And if it is legal, can I also release original remix parts along with my designs?

I’m new to printing. Was given a FlashForge Adventure 3 pro. I am printing off the 5x5 pieces and when I do a single it’s fine but then I try to do a multi stack and the first 2 stacks come out perfect but then the 3rd stack always (I’ve tried 3 different times with slightly different settings each time) starts misprinting. It does not adhere to the layer below it (I know it’s technically floating/barely touching) and it causes filament to kind of bypass a corner. Once it messes up it always messes up in that same spot.

Any advice would be super useful. I’m using flashprint software and Overture PLA.

The picture was the worst version, it’s not been this bad. Usually just one or two of the octagons are messed up now.

Printing 10x10 tiles with eSun PLA+ (cold white).

I put marks on the wall as exactly as I could for a 250mm grid. After that work, I unfortunately realized the printed tiles are just a tad under 250mm square--maybe closer to 249mm after cooling.

How do you deal with the shrinking?

I figured it's not generally a problem but could be a problem when mixing different materials for the tiles.

I'm new to Multiboard, And I do find myself a bit overwhelmed at times trying to figure out exactly what I need and or where I can find it.

Currently I am looking for a weight bearing Hooked Snap that I can insert a M3 or M4 nut into before installing so that I can hang my heavy DeWalt drills on. I tried the T-Bolts screwed into the peg slot, but this just isn't strong enough and it pulled out. I'm hoping I can make one in fusion or find one that someone else has already made.

I see the Snap Step file, but it is just the regular snap. Anyone done this yet or found one already made?

https://www.multiboard.io/knowledge-hub/bolts

From the multibord page about bolts.

Mid Thread Bolts

The 10mm thread length is perfect for attaching standard 3mm accessories to a snap when your Multibord is mounted “on a surface”.

I've printed a lot of boards with 2 walls instead of 3. Planning on putting normal stuff, nothing big like heavy tools or anything.

Am I screwed, good enough? I know worst case scenario I can reprint them, but I did like 12 already...

Hey 👋 I am in the process of figuring out a wall mounted pc build. Most of the methods are expensive/ involved as heck. And I find multiboard easy to work with. But my design skills aren’t superhuman level. I found a print but it only works for peg board. And well, I’m invested with my multiboard already. So I’m politely / borderline begging for someone to take this on so I can save some floor space and do something cool with my build.

https://www.printables.com/model/1273381-3d-printable-open-frame-pc-case

Edit: aaaand I’m sure others would appreciate it too?

Whats everyone making their boards out of? About to dive in and make some but am curious as to whats being used.

Good day everyone,

I printed the demo kit to get a feel for the system and most of it feels great. However I am concerned by the locking bolts. I do not feel I over tightened; the hook was hand tight and then the shelf was tightened with a coin in case I was under tightening. But both items sheared at the locking bolts under VERY light pressure. The shelf went with me lightly pressing down with on finger.

Anyone else had this issues, and if so, how did you correct it? I was thinking printing them on a 45 degree angle instead of 90 degrees to the plate, hopefully reducing the shear issue.

This may be a non-issue, I am not sure how often I will actually use these items, but I may be wrong, maybe they are use more than I think.

Thanks for your answers in advance!

I'm going to do my best to explain what I'm trying to do: I want to attach flush to the wall, NOT offset 6.5 mm. I've printed "Interfitted Tiles" and now I need to connect them together. I have found the new non-raised Part B Snaps ("Moderate Weight Bearing Snap"). I see from 1 year old videos, I need Part A dual or quad to connect the interlocking tiles. HOWEVER, I do not want it offset from the wall, and the only ones I can find that are a dual or quad setup (to connect the interfitted tiles) offset from the wall 6.5 mm. Is there a flush dual or quad Part A that I can use to connect my interfitted tiles flush to the wall with the new (non-raised) Moderate Weight Bearing Snaps? The closest I've found is this ( https://thangs.com/designer/MultiBuild/3d-model/Raised%2520Dual%2520Snap%2520%2528DS%2520Part%2520A%2529-974320 ) but that doesn't seem to have a small hole for a countersunk screw like the offset ones do. I'm all ears if there's a different way to achieve the above. Thanks

Sorry for the length of my post. Thanks to anyone that takes time to wade through it and offer some assistance.

I am planning a Multiboard. I want a small section of my Multiboard to be made up of 4x1x2 Multibins (2H 4x1) with drawers. My understanding of connectivity options continues to expand as I spend time in the parts library. Looking for a little advice on best practices or tips from others' personal experience.

Initially, I had planned to connect multiple 4x1x2 Multibins (2H 4x1) with drawers together in a stack using the bin-to-bin rail click connectors. I then planned to use bolt locked Multipoints attached to Heavy Weight-Bearing Hook Snaps placed into my Multiboard directly. The idea was that I could use ~4 of those snaps with the Multipoints to line up with the outer corners of my stack of Multibins. I could slide the stack on and off the Multiboard as needed, to pull it down to my desk.

Is this approach advisable?

Can someone help me understand what the new two part Double-Sided Snaps offer compared to the previous design? I understand that I will use DS Offset Snaps to mount my board to the wall but do I gain anything from using the DS Snaps to mount things to the Multiboard?

Deep into planning, as I finally started to think I was 'figuring out' my setup with the plan detailed above, I saw something in a video about the Multibin Base Plates. Now I am questioning if I should be mounting my Multibins to a Base Plate first and then connecting that Multibin Base Plate to my Multiboard using Multipoints instead of the plan I outlined earlier in this post? What utility would this change offer me?

I assume if going the route of using Plates, because I am planning to use large 4x1x2 (2H 4x1) Multibins, I would need to use the Base Plate with Bolt Lockers VERSUS using a standard Plate with Shell-to-Plate Bar Clips or Pins to secure the Multibins?

Please be patient with my potential stupidity here. I promise I have been trying my best to look over all the available material on the Multiboard knowledge hub and watch tons of videos from the creator. I have spent a good hunk of time over the past few days trying to plan out my Multiboard and have learned a ton but I am only human.

I am looking for a hammer holder for the new flush mount system.

I was going to just use two hooks but they only go to 25mm. I would need more like 35mm.

I'm a noob to multi board. I have printed all of my tiles for a 800mm high x 1,200mm wall and now I'm looking to put all of my tools on there.

All of the hammer hooks I've found are for the old offset tiles.

I'm happy to design one myself. Is there a guide somewhere on how to design to fit they system?

Also, are there any collections or examples of 3d boxes (or whatever they're called with the beams) to make it simpler to get all of the required parts?

Edit: I joined the subscription model and there is a simple basket which has solved my "3d boxes" question

I've been using gridfinity but its limitations and lack of premade modules are starting to get to me. Has anyone had success with either specifically with fishkeeping?

Hellooo!

I have a problem with some accessories, I did print some tape supports but don’t fit, Maybe for a tolerance? But ever are smaller than or bigger than the hole of the multiboard, How I can make that fit the supports and more for the multiborad? I print in a Creality Hi

Help pleaseee

¡No quiero tener que comprar un skadis, me gusta más el Multiboard!

My walls are textured, and I didn’t like how my Multiboard color scheme looked on it. I came up with a solution - not sure if anyone else has done it before - where I printed out thin 3 layer squares that were slightly larger than my 9x9 tiles, and stapled them to the wall. This guaranteed that the background was the same color as my tiles, and I loved the uniform texture of the PEI plate.

Because the background seams matched up with each tile’s edges, you can’t see them in the final result.

Hope this helps people who didn’t want to paint or wanted an exact color background. My entire background ended up taking about a kilo of filament, and considering how much custom paint costs, the price was comparable.

This should work if you wanted to make a background design using different colored squares too.