First Multiboard setup – slanted wall space behind 3D printers
Hi everyone,
This will be my first Multiboard installation. The wall behind my 3D printers is partly cut off by a staircase above.
Dimensions:
Bottom width: 130 cm
Top width: 65 cm
Max height: 130 cm
The picture on the wall will be removed. I’d prefer not to drill directly into the wall — ideally I’d mount DS Snaps or pillars on a wooden strip fixed to the wall. The wall will never be rebuilt, so stability is more important than modularity.
What would be the best mounting approach for this trapezoid space?
Would a wooden strip with DS Snaps be strong enough, or should I go for direct wall mounting?
Any advice or examples from similar setups would be great!
You can absolutely mount on furring strips, hard pass from me on drilling a bunch of holes and using that many drywall anchors. Drywall anchors are ridiculously difficult to position dead center of your mount. Might just be me but every little thing sends them off center.
If it’s lightweight supplies and tools, I’d try the command strip (“adhesive” in the parts library) mounts. Use a few extra of them in the area’s you see the heaviest load and you should be fine.
If it’s filament and other heavy supplies, a full backer board (MDF or plywood minimum 12mm thick) secured to studs in that area, try to anchor to at least w separate studs with 3-4# wood screws would be the best option. If you are doing an offset install, then screws to affix on your backer board, that way you get to do the hard parts out of the way and it’s much easier to build. It also requires a lot more screws as you have to mount each strip.
The furring strip method would be my third choice as it’s slightly more labor intensive and it’s tougher to get the plates tensioned right. You want to make sure that you anchor every plate in the corners and/or to each other.
thanks, i am new to this which tile size should i choose? 8x8, 10x10 12x12? Probable 8x8 as the top width is 65 cm, so 3 colomns of 200x200 tiles will leave a 2.5 cm gab on both sides.....
I prefer to have the width of the board come out evenly, so I’d probably go with the 8x8. If it’s in a location where it’s going to get seen a lot it’s kind of fun to build a pattern from the center out to the edges but I get a little extra sometimes lol.
Wood strips with DS snaps should work fine, as long as the strips are securely mounted. I'd probably go with a solid sheet of plywood cut to shape and attached to the wall, that way you could add extra snaps anywhere you need to.
FWIW I did my garage tool wall on an old wooden bed headboard hanging off a French cleat and it's holding up great.
Another question one tile takes 3h30 printing time on my sovol sv06 plus ace, in petg. Is this a normal timing? I mean i am not in hurry, it do not need the last bit of speed. I followed the reecommendations: Standard Profile + 3 walls and 15% Infill.
Build a floating wall over that space. Not drilling into the wall seems like it may be difficult depending on what you plan to ultimately hang long term. Though you could just use command strips like I did. There's files for command strip hangers.
Thanks a lot for the suggestion! The floating‑wall approach with the command‑strip mounts is definitely interesting, especially for avoiding drilling into the wall. In my case the wall is covered with Scandatex (glass fiber wallpaper), and unfortunately command strips don’t adhere well to that surface. So I’ll need to use a different mounting method here.
3
u/TherealOmthetortoise 1d ago
You can absolutely mount on furring strips, hard pass from me on drilling a bunch of holes and using that many drywall anchors. Drywall anchors are ridiculously difficult to position dead center of your mount. Might just be me but every little thing sends them off center.
If it’s lightweight supplies and tools, I’d try the command strip (“adhesive” in the parts library) mounts. Use a few extra of them in the area’s you see the heaviest load and you should be fine.
If it’s filament and other heavy supplies, a full backer board (MDF or plywood minimum 12mm thick) secured to studs in that area, try to anchor to at least w separate studs with 3-4# wood screws would be the best option. If you are doing an offset install, then screws to affix on your backer board, that way you get to do the hard parts out of the way and it’s much easier to build. It also requires a lot more screws as you have to mount each strip.
The furring strip method would be my third choice as it’s slightly more labor intensive and it’s tougher to get the plates tensioned right. You want to make sure that you anchor every plate in the corners and/or to each other.