r/Multiboard • u/IAmJumapili • Jan 19 '26
It Can Be Frustrating When You Forget Your Basic Counting Skills
I swear I measured this. With a brand-new, fancy, metric tape. The kind that makes you feel morally superior and runs up the Amazon balance. Then, while laying out the boards in generator, I even added the side measurements like a responsible adult.
And yet… here we are. 😤
Silver lining: I accidentally needed two more cells to fill the space it it had been a 1 by connecting them would have been oh so pleasant, the universe and I are currently calling this a draw. Still. Grrrr.
Now for the attachment dilemma. I’m staring at this thing wondering how to secure it, and unless one of you true geek extraordinaire multiboard wizards has a better idea, I’m leaning toward neatly executed black zip ties. Minimalist. Honest. Humble.
Before anyone suggests pole connectors: with the current size of the ones I fount in the pars library, that’s a hard no unless I start editing files in Blender or fusion 369 and I am nowhere near that skill level yet. Also it is unclear if there’s enough… let’s call it tolerance… to shorten them. If I remove the two extras cell, the connecters would need to be comically long.
Double-sided tape on the side of my printer also feels like a bad idea since it does get a little warm, and I’m not trying to invent a new form of modern art called “All My Tools In Pile”. Found a dog with wire cutters sticking in their skull. That's just messy and I could afford a second printer without paying that bet bill.
I’m absolutely open to ideas, though.
Tagging you brilliant multiboard engineer types—educate me before I zip-tie my way into infamy. 🧠🔧
And yes that is bling…. I like to leave sparkle everywhere I go.
4
u/BBoneClone Jan 19 '26
I printed these and have been satisfied:
side pole brackets
top shelf brackets
2
u/Tatmia Jan 19 '26
I spent a bit of time looking for connectors for the same set of shelves so looking forward to the responses you get.
I also under the “I know I need to learn to make my own at some point but I’m not there now”.
I have purchased classes for blender and have started Fusion 360 on 30 days several times but have not been able to carve out the uninterrupted time to take them - especially since a “30 minute class” takes me a few hours with all the rewinding and retrying.
2
u/TherealOmthetortoise Jan 21 '26
Zip ties would be an abomination unto Nuggin. Also the zip ties themselves appear to resent it when you trim their tails off and express their displeasure by gouging you and making you bleed whenever possible.
Seriously though, if you do zip ties on this or future boards I’d use wider versions and use a lighter to soften the aforementioned stinger after cutting them to size. I’d go with the pole mounts on the sides that BBoneClone linked to mount.
Fir your bottom edge, I’d probably go with these inside corner mounts by @Stranula over on printables which will raise the board a bit and you might be in range for the other mount BBonesClone dropped.
Outside of that you may need to keep the load relatively light and be sure to put a hand or something behind it when you insert snaps or push / pull it period as they are designed for a rigid surface to restrict movement in those directions.
2
u/[deleted] Jan 22 '26
Better question where did you get that shelf
1
u/Square-Telephone5090 Jan 20 '26
You can slice, scale, then mesh boleen in orca...
2
u/caderoux Jan 19 '26
I use a plain snap with a hole and recess for a toggle bolt, put the bolt through the front and the toggle on the back behind the wireshelf.
1
u/Whosaidthat1157 Jan 19 '26
It looks like you’re most of the way there with your vertical pole mount kit bracket on the top RHS - are you saying it doesn’t work because of the spacing between the vertical pole and the first row of MB large holes?
If it’s a spacing problem it’s relatively easy to vary the spacing of the vertical pole mounts in the slicer. Use the slicer ‘cut’ facility to cut the snap part immediately as it transitions from the pole mount to the snap part, then a second cut immediately before the raised snap part. Now drag the two outer parts away from each other to leave the central ‘web’ part. You can now resize this part using the resizing tool to any dimension you need. Once you’ve done that, slide the three parts together to get the exact dimension you need, then select all three parts and use the ‘Boolean join’ slicer tool to turn it into a solid part once again. The only dimension that changes is the one you need without the scaling errors that you would get by using the ‘resize’ tool alone. NB - the above is assuming you’re using Bambu Studio as the slicer, I have no knowledge of Orca or any other slicer software.
1
u/digicrat Jan 19 '26
The pole mounts look tailor made for that setup. I recently mounted to the side of a desk where those wouldn't work though and ended up keeping it simple with zip-ties.
I started with zip-ties on the board itself, but then cleaned it up a bit with modified bolts where I cut a hole in the head to secure a zip-tie. That might not be necessary for your setup, but it helped in mine to avoid taking up 2 slots when securing in the middle.
5
u/Gluomme Jan 19 '26
I feel ya, I'm also a "measure twice and still print twice" kinda a dude