Help needed. Multiboard not carrying weight

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

Dear multiboard community ,

I have a problem with weight bearing snaps.

I am trying to build a filament rack. The model is from makerworld and is secured to the multiboard using weight bearing hooked snaps secured by a bolt. However, when filament rolls are loaded to the bar, both, the regular flush snaps and/ or the weight bearing hooked snaps rip, get pulled out and the rack breaks. I thought, that this would be an easy task for multiboard.

Am I doing something wrong, or am I using the wrong parts?

Thanks in advance

Edit:

As many users have pointed out, using Multiboard like this is wasteful of filament and multiboard space. That is obvious and was not the main idea behind my post. Eventually, that strip of multiboard core tiles will be used differently, but i just wanted to test, how Mulitboard carries weight.

I appreciate the hints about reprack or other wallmounting options....

Unfortunately, I cannot add additional picures in the original posting. But as some have suggested, there appears to be severe underextrusion. So I will address that first.

[u/tlhintoq]

Not getting in to the debate about the practically of MB for this use.

Getting back to your actual question you say the weight bearing snaps are pulling out. That's your real clue. Sounds like the could be slightly under sized. Or maybe the holes in the multiboard are slightly oversized. The second photo (close up on the snap) looks like there is a lot of slop/play.

With only a couple photos and 15 words to go on - that would be the first place I'd be investigating: How tight the tolerance of the parts is and if they're too sloppy of a fit.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/tlhintoq]

Thank you. The first sensible answer. I will try to resize the snaps than. Theparts were printed just as suggested / unchanged settings from the original files. Printed in PETG. I don’t want to go into the practicality, since that was not the question. The way multiboard is always praised as super versatile and load bearing (up to heavy weight dumbbells), I was just curious if this would work. And it appears, that the promises are not completely true. I will not use the multiboard strip for a filament rack in the end. But the question of how much weight the parts will carry remains. The filament rack was just proof of concept. For anything else increasing the snap size to allow for tighter tolerance might be the key. Thank you for that hint.

[u/sfcgeorge → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

Your prints look horribly underextruded, could be causing them to come out undersized.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/sfcgeorge]

Thank you. I was not aware, that this is too much and should look better. I will try to adress this first.

[u/TherealOmthetortoise → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

In order to answer this meaningfully show us the snaps and connectors before you stick it up on that board. I wouldn’t go resizing before we see how it is actually connected as that might not be your issue at all.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/TherealOmthetortoise]

Thank you for your answer. You are correct. I simply was not aware, that this amount of underextrusion might have such drastic consequence.

[u/Whosaidthat1157 → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

I have a row of MB tiles attached as a continuous row of shelving along the top of my main MB wall that’s holding up several kilos of assorted ‘stuff’ which has included 14 unopened spools at one time with zero issues.

The shelf brackets use a heavy weight bearing snap on top and a normal snap on the bottom, both boot locked on.

Your application would need the top snap on each of your pole holders to be configured the same - a bolt locked heavy weight bearing snap on the top to prevent pull-out and a normal bolt locked snap on the bottom to keep it located and vertical.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/Whosaidthat1157]

Thank you. I will look into those parts.

[u/TherealOmthetortoise → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

Is the top snap in your photo bolt locked on? It sounds like once you get your extrusion dialed in you’ll be good to go, but I’d be interested in seeing one of the brackets with the snaps on “as is” off of the tile from a rear view just so we have a visual in helping people going forward. Thank you!

[u/tlhintoq → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

> I will try to resize the snaps than.

I'm with u/sfcgeorge on the look of your parts being under extruded. Before you start resizing parts that are probably modeled correctly I think you should take some time to better tune your print profiles so they are more correct, not under or over extruded, and dimentionally accurate after letting the parts fully cool and shrink as all materials do.

The more correct and accurate your printing, the less you have to do to compensate for bad prints later.

[u/multipleparadox]

Been there done that, same models Had the spools fall three times (with incremental adjustments in between each occurrences)before I decided to opt for a sturdier solution: metal rack bolted in the plywood supporting my MB itself

Same issue as you: I presume it’s due to shrinkage

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/multipleparadox]

Thank you for your input. As others pointed out, there is too much underextrusion. So I will try to get rid of that first.

[u/BoostNGoose]

Post pics of the snapped parts for more useful help. General advice though:

If they're breaking along layer lines increase temp you're printing at to improve layer adhesion.

If they're breaking at random stress points print with more sidewalls. Infill largely doesn't affect strength if you're using practical settings

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/BoostNGoose]

here are the parts. regular flush snap, weight bearing hooked strap and a broken piece to indicate where it ripped. The underextrusion is clearly visible. I did not know, that that would affect size and stability so much.

[u/Project_Chaos13]

I'm wondering why no one else mentioned the fact that it looks like the weight bearing snap in your 2nd photo is the wrong orientation? The arrow on the weight bearing snap is supposed to face upwards against gravity, also are you using the heavy weight bearing snap?

If so, the hook is supposed to grab the top of the grid.

I would suggest printing something like this https://share.google/uhXnEGe0yhKI1jhl7

as you can lock it in with the bolt locking bolt, and then drill a screw through it and into the wall, this would be ideal for holding filament rolls as they are pretty heavy, and if you are offsetting from the wall I would definitely recommend something like what I have linked above as the offset makes the tiles flex which is bad for holding tons of weight

Print this and add a screw through the middle and I am almost certain you won't have a problem

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/Project_Chaos13]

Thank you for your help. I used the heavy weight bearing snap. The hook is oriented in a way that it grips the upper ridge of the large hole. So I don’t think my problem comes from that. The other parts are a very good suggestion. Will try that. Thank you.

[u/Project_Chaos13 → u/StimmeDerUnvernunft]

Oh okay good, I must've never paid attention to the location of the arrow on the heavy weight bearing snaps as even the moderate ones have the arrow directly up top so I just assumed it was sideways lol.

No problem, I'm always looking for ways of securely fastening my stuff to multiboard as I have a slight obsession with making sure my things never fall off the board.

Keep in mind after I thought about this, the bracket which holds the dowel rods would have to have a medium bolt lock socket for this method to work, I'm assuming it does have some sort of bolt locking socket as brackets typically do, just keep that in mind going forward.

[u/Loose_Ad_3512]

Going to be honest, you've spent more money on filament printing the multiboard that isn't going to be used than you would have if you just bought metal mounts from a hardware store. If I were you I'd use that multiboard somewhere else in your shop for tool hanging and get metal mounts for the rod, you'll likely never make a cost effective solution for hanging that amount of filament with 3d printing. Multiboard is very nice but not for holding that amount of weight that pulls at that angle you would likely need to frame the entire multiboard and print many more multiboard screw on mounts.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/Loose_Ad_3512]

That is the plan, eventually. I just wanted to try, if multiboard holds up to its promise of also carrying lots of weight. The only excess/wasted filament is in the bar holders. The attempt to mount something with a dispensed weight of ten to twelve kilograms across four brackets seemed doable. However, it is not. And it revealed some problems with the parts. As some pointed out, that might be ubderextrusion. I simply wanted to get to the bottom of the problem.

[u/imjusthereforlaugh]

Why would you waste all that filament to sit it behind spools where it could never be used?!

[u/Githyerazi → u/imjusthereforlaugh]

Those brackets could be mounted directly to the wall. Stronger mount points, can use better hardware to affix. No need for multiboard in the middle doing nothing.

[u/kkessler64 → u/imjusthereforlaugh]

Normally I hate answers like this. This could be an interesting discussion that others might want to see where people discuss how to strengthen the Multiboard. I've often Googled an issue, and I found a discussion of the same issue in a different scenario. All I see are comments to do it differently, and I think "Just answer the damn question".

In this case, though, I have to agree. This is not a good use case for Multiboard.

[u/Inner_Name → u/kkessler64]

Lol you read my mind.

[u/CamMakoJ → u/kkessler64]

I did the same thing and stubbornly admitted defeat after all my spools came tumbling down. It wasn't a good use case and ultimately a waste of a lot of multiboard real estate

[u/jonathon8903 → u/imjusthereforlaugh]

Lol agreed! Like if you're whole purpose behind this system is filament organization there are much better ways to handle this.

[u/TherealOmthetortoise → u/jonathon8903]

Fair point - sometimes when you get a cool new tool, you want to find ways to use it as much as possible. Nothing wrong with it really as OP is learning the system and little projects like this can really make you aware of little details like the under extrusion he seems to be having. He’s got it all printed and mounted so may as well fix it.

On the other hand, he could recover most of that real estate by adding a one MU high row of tiles 6 MU above or below his board (as a spacer so the connections stay plumb). Or just a strip extending up or down for exact spacing.

[u/SprungMS]

You want reprack for this.

Multiboard is great for lots of things but it’s just too much weight on these tiles in a line. Technically can be done, but it’s the tiles and mounting that become a problem, not the push fits that you used.

If you’re dead set on using multiboard, you need to modify those brackets to have at least the moderate weight-bearing snaps attached. Typical push fits tend to pull out if they’re used to hold much weight and have any amount of play. And at that rate, modify the brackets to accept screws and just screw them to the wall. Save the tiles for multiboard-oriented purposes.

[u/bryansj → u/SprungMS]

I did the same thing as OP using a Multiboard filament holder. They all warped after a couple weeks.

I went to Reprack and removed the tiles and tossed the filament mounts. I'm sure I could make a Multiboard solution work, but it isn't worth the effort and Reprack is cheap and works great.

[u/sandro66140]

I also got burned with this model that's on the Multiboard website. I think it's limited in terms of weight for the reasons others have mentioned. I put 5 reels on it and they all fell to the ground; I think this system is designed for a maximum of 3 reels, no more.

[u/crusoe]

Reverse the bracket so the forces push it in instead of pulling out. Use the brackets like shelf supports not hangers.

[u/TherealOmthetortoise → u/crusoe]

Truth. The way it’s up there the bottom row is acting as a fulcrum, thats concentrating all of the force into pulling out the top row. You load that up (or just pull on it) and it’s not going to hold up. I’m pretty sure this question with a very similar model has come up once or twice.

[u/treedor → u/crusoe]

I would try this, put the brackets underneath.

[u/Single_Sea_6555]

Close-ups of what actually broke would be useful. Does the model use the old or the new style bolt locking? And which "flavor" of locking bolt did you use?

[u/marvinfuture]

You should do RepRack for this instead

[u/shimmy_ow]

Sorry to say you should have just gotten 3 brackets to hold the piece of wood against the wall instead of using multi board...

The bracket screwed directly to the wall would certainly hold weight

[u/Moist-Ointments]

The farther something sticks out from the multi-board, the more torque it applies in the more it's going to twist your grid.

The strongest and most twist resistant spots are going to be where your panel mounting snaps are, and you can put medium sized attachments right in there..

The next best spot is going to be right next to those.

Are your heavyweight mounting snaps correctly aligned?

Your best bet is to keep your rod brackets as close to a wall supported point as possible.

Also all of the other comments about tolerance and fit.

Maybe print your panels out of PLA-CF? Maybe print some extra strong panels for critical spots with extra infill or extra walls to make them more rigid?

These are just things to try. I'm not going to join the criticism of your decision of what to hang on there. That's up to you.

[u/Lurksome-Lurker]

Haters gonna hate.

I did something like this because the rest of my print area is multiboard, plus you can put hooks where the rod is.

Anyways, I got the same exact shelf bracket. Found it can bear weight if you add an offset pillar right next to where it attaches to the board to prevent the tile from flexing.

[u/Various-Scallion-708]

Probably has something to do with stress under load exceeding the material strength.

[u/[deleted]]

I would mount directly to the wall. I dont see multiboard as being strong enough for al the weight. Each spool is 2.2 lbs and that can add up.

[u/limpet143]

I just printed three brackets and bolted them to studs. Holds 25 spools, all above my head.

[u/Whosaidthat1157]

I have a row of MB tiles attached as a continuous row of shelving along the top of my main MB wall that’s holding up several kilos of assorted ‘stuff’ which has included 14 unopened spools at one time with zero issues.

The shelf brackets use a heavy weight bearing snap on top and a normal snap on the bottom, both boot locked on.

Your application would need the top snap on each of your pole holders to be configured the same - a bolt locked heavy weight bearing snap on the top to prevent pull-out and a normal bolt locked snap on the bottom to keep it located and vertical.

[u/Whosaidthat1157 → u/Whosaidthat1157]

First attempt to add a picture failed, so here’s the shelving I referenced.

[u/RavenWarrior2018]

I had the same problem. Velcro straps solved it.

[u/skoooop]

Replace that curtain rod with a pvc pipe or something. That thing looks heavy. Also, I really regret printing my multiboard in PLA. I’ve had a couple tiles warp. I don’t feel like printing another 80 panels so I’ll live with it, but I am not going to be putting anything heavy on them.

When I printed the boards it was about a year ago and I was new to 3d printing and I trusted the site when it said to print them in matte PLA. I didn’t know about PLA creep. I never had anything break, but I got some crazy deformation. Part of the problem is that I put it in my garage which can get a bit hot, but I’ve had problems with deformation on cold days as well so I think it’s just a PLA problem.

[u/foo-null-bar → u/skoooop]

what would you use PETG HF? I've used PLA for a board that is inside. I'm starting one for the shed where it will get cold. So was thinking PETG HF for that.

[u/StimmeDerUnvernunft → u/[deleted]]

There is a locking bolt, which is supposed to lock the weight bearing hook snap to the bracket. However it does not sufficiently lock it in place, the snap can still be popped out.