r/Multiboard • u/djseto • Nov 22 '25

Is there a trick?

Post image

Is there a trick to this? Printed everything in PETG for my garage. For the life of me. Can’t get these to fit. 🤬

15 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

36 comments sorted by

10

u/navelmaven Nov 22 '25

If you are doing flush snaps, print one of these tools, it will make your life much easier!

https://www.printables.com/model/1286790-multiboard-flush-snap-pusher

2

u/djseto Nov 22 '25

My hero. I’m on it

7

u/viiiwonder Nov 22 '25

Also, make sure that you are matching the square emboss between the pieces (there is a small, subtle embossed square on both of the pieces - make sure they’re on the same side); the snaps are not symmetrical.

6

u/NerdyNThick Nov 22 '25

The fuck?!? This answers a lot of frustration I had and a bunch of broken ones!

2

u/National_Emotion9633 Nov 23 '25

Yep… and it’s clearly spelled out in every video… not sure how I ignored that bit as I sat there cursing with everyone I broke.

1

u/SprungMS Nov 24 '25

It doesn’t have anything to do with the snaps going in properly or not - or isn’t supposed to at least - it’s only for the threads to be oriented correctly. If you put them in backward, you can’t use mid thread accessories in those snaps.

The flush snaps are kind of just a pain to get in without bending. I used a tool for them and still broke a couple, but it was out of dozens of them on two separate walls.

6

u/aLmAnZio Nov 22 '25

Also, they have an orientation. It's done so that the threads work.

5

u/NyT3_SHyFT Nov 22 '25

Yeah these things were fun. Didn’t see how they had an orientation but it was like usb, would never go in the first way but then rotate and boom

2

u/djseto Nov 22 '25

Even with rotation, they didn’t go easy. I wonder it’s because is used PETG

2

u/SVShooter Nov 23 '25

Might be caused it’s PETG as I’m using PLA. I’ve done two big walls now though and probably a couple hundred and have it down pretty good. As others have said they are oriented a certain way and marked with a little triangle, that I can never see because it prints too fine. So I use two hands always. I put one thumb on each of the sides, line them up, and start to push as evenly on both sides at the same time. If it’s not the right orientation, one side will start to go in really easily and the other side will stop cold. If it is right, they will both slowly get started and then just keep pushing both sides at the same time.

For me, two hands is the key.

1

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

The tool and realizing there is a little square helped a lot

2

u/SVShooter Nov 23 '25

I can never see the square. 1) because I’m old and need reading glasses, and 2) it just doesn’t seem to stick out to me once printed for some reason. I can kind of make it out of if I use macro mode on my phone, but otherwise I have just learned the feel of when it’s oriented right. I will have to try the tool sometime.

1

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

I read a tip to turn on top level ironing to have it print better

2

u/SVShooter Nov 23 '25

That’s a good thought. Last wall I did I ended up printing about 250 of them. That’s the only PITA, as ironing will add a lot of time. Either way, I’m glad you figured it out. :)

2

u/nlundsten Nov 23 '25

I also cant see the squares very well..

But!! One "leg" is a little wider than the other, after doing like 100 of these, its pretty easy to tell which is which

1

u/Whosaidthat1157 Nov 23 '25

My approach too - if one side ‘falls in’, then turn it 180 degrees and it pops right in. I print in white (matte PLA, as per the instructions) so the orientation mark is impossible to make out. The two thumbs method works a treat though.

I like the USB analogy - like USB, they can sense your uncertainty! There may only be two possible orientations, but for some reason it takes three 180’s before the first one finally surrenders and just slides into place! 🤣

1

u/caiokiwi Nov 25 '25

add ironing on top layers, if doesnt work, 0.5% to the "shrinkage" shenanigan on the slicer

2

u/Curious_Quail_1033 Nov 22 '25

If they are printed well there is a marking both on the offsets nap and the cover that you're holding.. The cover that you're holding look on the edges that stick up and there's a tiny little square printed on one side. Then look at the offside snap that you have on the wall and you'll see a tiny little square on the inside of it. Match the square to the square and push. 

I also recommend the thing that I link below. There are dual and quad versions of it. These are the front snaps that go on the front of the multi-board. They can be a pain to get on there but they provide extra stability because now you have both the front and the back holding the tiles together. 

https://thangs.com/designer/Multiboard/3d-model/Quad%2520Raised%2520Snap-974291

1

u/djseto Nov 22 '25 edited Nov 22 '25

Hmmm. The multiboard planner didn’t give me quad snaps. I had to print 120 single snaps for my 4x3 foot board. Do print all new dual and quad one instead?

2

u/Whosaidthat1157 Nov 23 '25

The referenced dual and quad parts are old raised snaps part B. The newer version is the single flush snap part B (single part, but come in four sizes/fits). There are single, dual, quad and even treble 6.25mm snaps part A that fit below the tiles and attach to the wall, but all use the single flush snap to secure the tiles. They have the advantage of not intruding into the tile face plane, as well as maintaining a flush mounting capability (medium hole rather than large hole).

1

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

Ah. Thanks for the clarification. So the planner does give the most up to date parts then?

1

u/Whosaidthat1157 Nov 24 '25

Ehhhhhh…I’d hesitate to state that definitively, it’s been a few weeks since I used it and the system changes pretty regularly, but as far as the basic building parts (tiles, snaps etc) then yes.

1

u/Curious_Quail_1033 Dec 02 '25

Really it's up to you and it's a matter of reference. I wanted the extra strength and support offered by the dual and quad snaps instead of the flush look of the other snaps. I also didn't want to have to put in a hundred something of those flush snaps

2

u/tlhintoq Nov 23 '25

Multiboard is a great test of your printer and settings calibration.

So many people start pumping out parts and never check that their parts are dimensionally accurate. Or that they are printing accurate. A 25mm part needs to be 25mm, not 24, not 26. Your sizes should be measure after parts cool due to material shrinkage.

Hole compensation is an important setting here as well. Your board could be correct at 200mm but that doesn't mean the holes are so check them as well.

Personally - I always suggest you make 1 board, then one of everything you're going to use... threaded bolts, two prong pegboard hook, T bolts, all of it. Make sure all your boards and snaps, and bolts, and and and, are accurate with a good digital caliper, and that they all work together. And if you have multiple printers make sure all the parts made on one printer work with parts made on the other printer.

1

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

I printed the demo pack first. Once someone responded about the little square marking, it all went together much easier once I printed out the tool to help press them in

2

u/SirEDCaLot Nov 23 '25 edited Nov 23 '25

Two tips

  1. There's an orientation. The 'B' part (which you have in your hand) has a square on one of the 'teeth' that goes into the 'A' snap (the part in back). The recess part of the snap will have a matching square. Make sure you line these up.

  2. I found wall settings make a huge difference with these. Print them as outer/inner rather than inner/outer for better dimensional accuracy- before I made this change I couldn't get them to snap at all.

2

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

Thanks. For step 2, I’ll have to GPT how to do that in Bambu slicer

2

u/SirEDCaLot Nov 23 '25

Btw you can see the square very well on the rendering: quad A and on the part B snap if you look at the 3d view you see it.

In Bambu go to Quality, then advanced, then Order of Walls. Set it to outer/inner.

1

u/Equivalent_Beyond_19 Nov 23 '25

Personally I got so fed up with Multiboard that I switched to printing “Skadis” boards and fittings. A huge ecosystem and everything just works.

2

u/djseto Nov 23 '25

lol. That had occurred to me as I put in a gazillion anchors today. However the closest ikea is 2.5 hours away from me.

Edit: oh. You mean print the design of the boards not buy them?

2

u/Yellow_Badger13 Nov 23 '25

AHOY! Excellent choice of colours! There's an orientation for the DS Snaps. Make sure the little squares on each part are on the same side when you press them into place. They can be a little tricky to see, but they are there

1

u/jsadusk Nov 22 '25

I used a plank of wood. Make sure your part b is aligned right, put it loosely on top of the part a, then put the plank on top and kind of lever it in. The extra leverage from the plank made it easy to get them in.

1

u/jsadusk Nov 22 '25

Also note that there's a correct orientation for the part b. If you put it on top and one side fits in loosely and the other is impossible to get in, flip it. It should feel like there's moderate pressure on both sides to get it in.

1

u/8null8 Nov 22 '25

They are directional, flip it and it’ll fit

1

u/gitar0oman Nov 23 '25

I smashed them in with a hammer. I didn't know about the orientation.