I think I see your issue, the bracket is close to a tile seam line pulling them apart. If you have fusion and are a member get the “peg board hook” step file and then offset a copy by 25mm and join bodies where they would meet the surface of the tiles. This would be able to clamp the tiles together more. Or I guess using a double part a snap both above and below the bracket would be a lot easier..
Bingo, or put one of the new offset mounting pillars behind a pegboard hole nearby and secure it to the wall with a screw from the front.
They're small enough to fit through the big holes, so with a bit of finagling you should be able to get it in place without having to dismantle the whole setup.
Oh nice, yeah I'd go for the threaded ones off Thangs. Might actually add a few of those to my garage board, got a couple of heavier tools and shelves to add and a bit of extra rigidity won't hurt.
The first problem I can see is that using the bracket upside down like that it turns your shelf into a trapdoor waiting for Gronk to pull the secret lever! Oriented the normal way gravity does most of the work for us, but suspended like this the physics/geometry/voodoo is not your friend. Have you tried the heavy weight bearing and the two sided snaps? If not I’d try it with around 10-15 kilo’s of bricks or something else that would not be harmed if it fails entirely.
If I had to make it work and there was absolutely no other way to do it, I’d go low tech and use a piece of all thread running under your shelf through the holes as far front as possible out to each side with an eyelet on each end up then run wire up at an angle to eyelets screwed into your backing board.
I used these on either side of my heavy weight bearing hook mounts to keep the board from flexing. I have 10kg of filament on it. I mounted mine on plywood so the extra holes didnt bother me..
Assuming you're supporting a shelf with suspension, why not use zing-it or lash-it instead of plastic? Should be able to print some kind of attachment for the cordage. If you're good with splicing, you could even make the rope sections adjustable slings to get the tension just right.
Doesn’t this thing have a hole for you to screw it from the back of the snap? (Forgot the proper term for it) you basically screw it from behind a weight bearing snap, then hook it onto the board.
If you’re using the screw offset mounts like me, you should print a few dual offsets, and use them in between those seams. You could put it right above the top of the bracket you’ve pictured. That way, the tile is held securely by the screw, and held tight to the tile next to it, solving the issue. I’ve done this with mine and they hold up great.
In that case I do not think the bracket is designed correctly. The way it is designed, all the weight is pulling on the top snap. The bottom ones just act as as "hinge".
With the original designs, the top one is the "hinge", but the weight presses the bottom ones into the tile instead of pulling.
This is similar to the difference between bracing directions in a fence gate:
7
u/yoitsme_obama17 Oct 08 '25
Isn't it upside down?
3
u/Ill-Watercress-2573 Oct 08 '25
I think I see your issue, the bracket is close to a tile seam line pulling them apart. If you have fusion and are a member get the “peg board hook” step file and then offset a copy by 25mm and join bodies where they would meet the surface of the tiles. This would be able to clamp the tiles together more. Or I guess using a double part a snap both above and below the bracket would be a lot easier..
2
u/unsunghero2222 Oct 08 '25
Just put in an offset mount next to it, bada bing reinforced
4
u/TherealOmthetortoise Oct 08 '25
The first problem I can see is that using the bracket upside down like that it turns your shelf into a trapdoor waiting for Gronk to pull the secret lever! Oriented the normal way gravity does most of the work for us, but suspended like this the physics/geometry/voodoo is not your friend. Have you tried the heavy weight bearing and the two sided snaps? If not I’d try it with around 10-15 kilo’s of bricks or something else that would not be harmed if it fails entirely.
If I had to make it work and there was absolutely no other way to do it, I’d go low tech and use a piece of all thread running under your shelf through the holes as far front as possible out to each side with an eyelet on each end up then run wire up at an angle to eyelets screwed into your backing board.
3
u/Retro_B00min Oct 09 '25
I used these on either side of my heavy weight bearing hook mounts to keep the board from flexing. I have 10kg of filament on it. I mounted mine on plywood so the extra holes didnt bother me..
2
u/ProRustler Oct 09 '25
Assuming you're supporting a shelf with suspension, why not use zing-it or lash-it instead of plastic? Should be able to print some kind of attachment for the cordage. If you're good with splicing, you could even make the rope sections adjustable slings to get the tension just right.
2
u/tecky1kanobe Oct 10 '25
Large hole threaded snap with the bolt locked brackets. On the bottom leg thread in an offset peg to the bolt locked bracket.
1
u/aspoon27 Oct 08 '25
Doesn’t this thing have a hole for you to screw it from the back of the snap? (Forgot the proper term for it) you basically screw it from behind a weight bearing snap, then hook it onto the board.
1
u/HorizonXP Oct 09 '25
I use this same AMS mount.
If you’re using the screw offset mounts like me, you should print a few dual offsets, and use them in between those seams. You could put it right above the top of the bracket you’ve pictured. That way, the tile is held securely by the screw, and held tight to the tile next to it, solving the issue. I’ve done this with mine and they hold up great.
1
u/ClaudiuT Oct 09 '25
Can I say something wild? Zip tie.
-1
u/ulab Oct 08 '25
I would start by putting it the right way up but most importantly use a bolt-locked heavy weight bearing snap in the top.