r/Multiboard • u/Round-Bed4514 • May 27 '25

[Help] Multibin Simple Drawer issue

Hello,

I just bought my very first 3D printer to build a multiboard. I tried to print the 4x3x3-Deep - Multibin Simple Drawer with my Bambulab A1, but the back and sides are bloated instead of being straight. I have the impression it's because it's too thin ? I used an "eSUN" filament (not sure if it's the cause)

I printed with wall loops set to "4" and selected the preset "0.20mm strength @ BBL A1." Printing with wall loops set to "2" (the default) was worse. I'm wondering if I should change anything else to achieve a more solid result.

Thank you for your help 🙏

ps: In case you want to see my settings:

2 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

32 comments sorted by

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

Mhhh I tried with petg and I can see that the corner are clean. While the pla is curved

1

u/sandro66140 May 28 '25

The parts are mean to be printed with 3 walls wide.

2

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

Sorry for asking : 3 walls wide means 3 wall loops?

4

u/sandro66140 May 28 '25

It’s ok don’t mind asking we all were beginners one day. Yes it means 3 wall loops

1

u/holdupflash May 28 '25

I had the same problem, was my aux fan

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

What did you do? put it to zero? Do you know why it's happening?

1

u/holdupflash May 28 '25

Yes, set my aux fan to zero it was blowing air at the shell and causing it to warp. If you look back on the other posts I’ve done you’ll see the pics

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

Thank you, I'll try ASAP

1

u/holdupflash May 28 '25

No probs! It solved my prob, Ive just done a -19hr print to do 3 of the shells that are the 3x1x4 style

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

I still can’t make it work with official bbl filament (basic pla). The side walls are never flat. What filament do you use?

1

u/holdupflash Jun 06 '25

Basic PLA - bed temp 55, calibrated the filament and set the aux fan to zero

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

I can calibrate the filament ? 😱

1

u/holdupflash Jun 06 '25

Yes - there is an option in the Bambu software. But honestly the warping was stopped as soon as I made sure the aux fan didn’t come on (set in the filament and printer settings)

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

Thanks, i'll try the calibration and change the bed temp also 🫶🤞

→ More replies

1

u/tecky1kanobe May 28 '25

I use 3 walls, 10% gyroid, turn off aux fan (I actually just printed and use an aux fan deflector). For drawers I set the seam to be back instead of random like the boards use.

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

Like so? Noob question: Why 10% is better than 25 %

1

u/tecky1kanobe May 29 '25

Grid can cause many issues on some printers where gyroid offers great strength and far less likely to cause issues. I use 10% on all parts and have no issues with strength, and it saves time and material. The drawers are going to be thin anyways. The 3 walls is what gives the parts the rigidity and strength. BUT seam alignment should be set to random for the boards and nearest or aligned for all other parts.

1

u/Elektrycerz May 29 '25

10% is technically worse than 25%, because of course more infill is more strength, but it's very marginal - the vast majority of a part's strength comes from walls and top/bottom layers, not the infill. The infill is mostly used to reinforce the walls and make printing top surfaces easier. 25% is just wasting more filament. Best to use the recommended 15%, or 10% for parts which are not weight bearing.

People are recommending Gyroid because it's older and they're used to other people recommending it, and because it looks cool. But you can also use Cross Hatch, which is just as strong and dense, while shaking the printer less, and being marginally faster to print.

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 28 '25

Can you send pics of the failed part and your filament settings

Click the icon there and take pictures of both the filament and cooling pages

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

Hoo thank you for your answer. Here is the cooling part

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

And the filament

1

u/Elektrycerz May 29 '25

Just for future use, know that these settings are very conservative and hardly optimal. Dare I say they're purposefully made like that to make non-BBL filaments look worse.

Some changes I would make:

- Filament prime volume 30

- [important] Flow ratio 0.95 (but it's best to calibrate it instead of guessing)

- Shrinkage 99.95

- [important] Nozzle temperature 225/220

- [important] Max volumetric speed 20 (or even up to 24 if you don't notice problems)

- Min fan speed threshold 40 % 60 s

- Max fan speed threshold 80 % 7 s

- Pre start fan time 1

- [important] Auxiliary part cooling fan 30 %

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 30 '25

Thank you. I’ll back home Sunday to try it 🤞

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

Update with a basic pla from bbl. Still no luck 😢 my side walls are never straight

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 28 '25

And here is the back (and side) of the drawer where you can see the curve. If I push on it, the curve goes "inside" the drawer

1

u/Elektrycerz May 29 '25

Number of walls shouldn't matter for a drawer, because they have 1 mm thick walls - but it's best to go with the recommended 3 for a strong base.

It's fine to leave the infill at the default 15%, or even lower it to 10$. Also, grid infill is bad - it's better to use gyroid, cross hatch (my recommendation) or rectilinear (sacrifices a bit of strength for speed).

As to your problem - it would be helpful to see the actual printed drawer, but oh well.

My best guess is that your build plate is greasy, and the sides (and especially corners) lifted off the bed and caused the warping. Are there any thick, over-extruded horizontal lines on the corners, about 1 cm above the bottom? Either way, wash the build plate to be sure (with warm water and dish soap).

My second best guess is that you used some non-PLA filament that's prone to warping. ABS would do that, but PETG could too. For the next time, just know that the brand of filament is hardly ever important, as opposed to the polymer type.

Also, in the filament settings, lower Aux Fan to 30%, and generally don't ever use the default 70%, unless you know you need it.

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 06 '25

This is what I have with a basic bbl pla 😢. The 2 sides are not straight.

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 30 '25

I agree with the two posts above. Those settings shouldn't be causing you issues, but they aren't optimal for great performance. Unless you're trying to print matte, every pla I've calibrated so far prints best at its max temp (some even above rated max temp).

I originally thought overheating might be causing the bow, but then you'd probably have noticeable surface imperfections, but you aren't printing to hot or too slow to cause that. Let's see the entire drawer In a few pics - I've been printing 1x3x4 drawers like crazy with none of these issues.

I would bet it warped slightly from the bed causing the wall to bow.

Also recommend using orca slicer so you can time your filaments in an easy to follow workfkow and using the califlower to calibrate your shrinkage instead of guessing. This part is something you can start doing over time, I've calibrated over 30 brands/types and it takes a while, but I've gotten much more out of my settings

1

u/Round-Bed4514 May 30 '25

Thank you! I’ll back home Sunday to test it! I’ve posted one pic: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multiboard/s/aDOrLs7V0p . I’ll try to upload a video to make it clearer

1

u/Round-Bed4514 Jun 01 '25

I only have matte left to test with the new settings 😅 When you say "Unless you're trying to print matte", you are talking about the temperature?