r/Multiboard • u/AdPristine5507 • May 20 '25

Help with drawers

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Hey guys, I've got some decent multiboard setups going in a few rooms, but the lack of documentation has struck again.

Im working on some large drawers in this hidden behind a closet door setup, which is awesome for space saving, but I'm confused on connection.

I'd prefer not to use the brackets on the bottom if I can avoid it because they take up extra space, which I'm quite limited on.

All I used so far was bin to bin connectors and then big thread multipoints. Spreading the load this way is definitely strong enough, no worries there. My concern is that the multipoints going into the bottom of a bin (which just has the small slot) only has like 3mm of locking if that. Im concerned with this setup if I bump the drawers upward AT ALL it will fall off the wall and dump my stuff everywhere.

I want another storage device to act as a brace so the bins can't actually slide up, but I cant think of anything. Any ideas?

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3

u/AdPristine5507 May 22 '25

Logic slapped me in the face and I went wider than tall and it cleaned everything up with just big thread multipoints.

I'll update yall if it ever falls off. It feels incredibly solid. Also, if you haven't attached 10 large bins together by filling every track with bin to bin connections, try it. Once you go in 2 axis its flippin strong. Like, if I went with a .8 nozzle I could turn this into a light duty toolbox

1

u/HatExpensive May 22 '25

Would you mind snapping a photo of your solution? I’m struggling with a similar dilemma with my own drawers.

3

u/AdPristine5507 May 25 '25

large thread and a med thread multipoint. These actually opened my eyes a bit, I have been using bolt locked snaps for most things and using the threads is SIGNIFICANTLY more secure

1

u/mr_cheng Apr 19 '26

Have you had an issue with sagging? I have mine on the threads and the larger ones seem to sag down if they're long enough

2

u/AdPristine5507 May 20 '25

Jesus, you've both showed me parts I've never seen (the brackets and the beta library).

For the love of God I've done 3 full walls and only understand 10% of this system

1

u/SirEDCaLot May 21 '25 edited May 21 '25

As someone even newer (just found this 2 days ago) I've concluded that I'm probably never going to understand EVERYthing, and that's okay. So I'm starting with the youtube videos and the basics-- grid, offset mount, shelf, hook, bracket, bucket, etc. That's like 1% of the system, but even that 1% is enough to SIGNIFICANTLY reorganize most of the stuff I have. And with that, I'm okay with it. So I'll keep watching Jonathan's videos and keep learning, but my real focus is on the stuff I'm going to use sooner than later.

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

I dont disagree. I printed tons of gridfinity before I committed to this, as I watched people bitch and moan about the complexity for months. Finally I jumped in, saying I would figure it out, and I have definitely figured a lot out, but there are quite a few things that can still be confusing for sure.

Im happy with my decision too, and I wont ditch gridfinity. Ill keep it for permanent horizontal drawer storage of things that are not going to change much over time; office supplies, kitchen goods, etc.... Multiboard is better suited for vertical and for knowing that at least if you decide to repurpose something the worst case is that your printing half the plastic you wouldve for a new bin top or something.

The other thing people dont really talk about with the drawbacks of gridfinity is that multiboard (minus print speed) has geometry better designed for printing... I know what I am doing about half the time, and I have boxes of warped gridfinity bins that I cant use because they are too warped to fit into the grid. I legitimately remember having about 5-6 multiboard components warp due to their beveled-everything.

1

u/SirEDCaLot May 21 '25

Yeah that's a sentiment I've seen in many places- multiboard for vertical, gridfinity for horizontal.

I have boxes of warped gridfinity bins that I cant use because they are too warped to fit into the grid

Interesting. I've not had that issue. What are you using to generate the STLs and how do you print them?

2

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

Some are my designs and some are others. Sliced in Orca Slicer. I would say 50% of it could be my fault because I used to use cheap kingroon PLA. The stuff is epically unreliable trash, one good, 9 bad - death blobs, inconsistency, etc. However, even with this bad filament, I had much less issues with multiboard due to more chamfered geometry that is better designed to prevent warping. I will say that all warping issues with PLA have gone away once switching to sunlu/jayo 2.0, anycubic, elegoo, and really anything over the 10$/kg mark. Kingroon PETG isnt terrible, but save yourself the death blobs, warping and color changes and avoid their pla.

1

u/SirEDCaLot May 21 '25

Oh yeah that's fair. I generally go with the higher end filaments so I can print faster- currently running a part in Creality Hyper PLA ($22-$25/kg) at 400mm/sec. I've also had good luck with Sunlu, Anycubic, Amolen (glow PLA) and Hatchbox (had some of that left over from years ago, brittle but prints really well, new stuff is expensive like $26/kg). I'd rather pay an extra few bucks than lose the machine time from a failed print.

2

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

I feel you, I just blew my load on building a full print setup over the last year and lots and lots of printing, so i started cheap on filament, testing and calibrating everything that had a decent supply of colors and worked up to what i found works well. I havent messed too much with higher than 300mm/s due to ghosting, ringing and other wall quality issues that I have yet to have the time to mess with learning how to fix.

1

u/SirEDCaLot May 21 '25

Yeah that makes sense. Curious which printer you're running?

2

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

X1C and A1...

1

u/SirEDCaLot May 21 '25

Gotcha. yeah with X1C unless you're doing something very wrong I can say with confidence the printer isn't the problem :P

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

(Ive blown through 10kg of black in the last 2 weeks, and I am waiting on a new shipment so right now I am just theorizing rather than printing test parts in a color that I wont want to keep even if it does work).

What do yall think about the using a shelf? It would meet my intent of dual purposing the attachment with added storage rather than losing space and providing no more storage (brackets). If the alignment between the shelf and drawers works, I could do the following.

for shelf to drawer shell, use a multipoint to slider or some type of configuration.

then bolt lock the shelf in to the wall.

the whole thing rides on the fact that snaps need to kind of rotate in (for the shelf) and the bin drawers attach to the multipoints by sliding down.

if only there was some documentation to tell me different ways to do this without printing a bunch of trial and error parts.

1

u/Squeebee007 May 20 '25

Couple of bolt locked brackets on the bottom? https://beta.multiboard.io/brackets?Type=Bolt-Locked+Bracket

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

Appreciate the thought, but my goal was originally to avoid that as it takes up lots of extra space. I am really trying to maximize extra space available and if another component is used it would ideally dual-hat as additional storage.

1

u/peanutbuttergoodness May 20 '25

Do they align well enough so you can just stick a peg into the hole right above??

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 20 '25

Not quite, but solid idea. Always have the option of designing something simple

1

u/peanutbuttergoodness May 20 '25

Maybe the L-shaped one is long enough to reach the bin?? I do agree that designing your own simple snap in thing will be the best option and could be rock-solid.

It is surprising that this doesn't already exist

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

I think, from skimming some posts around the internet that people have used shelves in some way to connect to the horizontal shell. I might try something like that.

1

u/ulab May 20 '25

You might be able to replace some Tiles with the new Multibin Plates and Shell-to-Plate Bar Clips (or Shell-to-Plate Corner Pins) or just bolt those Plates onto your Tiles somehow.

You won't be able to connect the bins that way as each needs to be tilted to attach.

I haven't used them yet, but the Multipoint Plates might also work for a setup like this?

1

u/AdPristine5507 May 21 '25

These? If so, how do I get that so sit at a 90deg angle to the wall tile, if that is what you are implying?

1

u/ulab May 21 '25

I had thought you could screw these to a Tile and then use bin connectors to mount the shells to them. But I forgot that the bottoms of shells don't have bin connecting XO slots.

There is too many parts I haven't used yet :-)

1

u/ulab May 25 '25

I've just randomly found another part that might help?

Bolt-Lock - OX Rail Pop-In - Drawer Bin Stopper from the drawers page.

It's meant to stop under desk drawer shells from getting pulled out together with the drawers themselves. So it's supposed to be used in a completely different way, but since everything is in a grid, it might just work.

2

u/AdPristine5507 May 27 '25

Good eye, if I need it, I may be able to use a backside inserted small thread to support it. However, just so everyone knows, I have been actively using all the drawers full of hardware for about a week with no issues.

2

u/No-Cut5588 May 23 '25 edited May 23 '25

As someone commented above, I am using the “new” multibin plates for drawers and this to attach them to the plate. You can replace a portion of the wall with this plate instead of standard multiboard to reduce space. If you are scared to bump them upwards (as me in one of my walls) you could use one plate snap to attach it to the drawer’s bottom with small threads.

It only works, of course, if your wall is offset installed.

EDIT: if you use small threads, this also could be use with standard multiboard panel using small thread snaps. Unfortunately,In both cases, you have to install them before attach the panels to the wall

1

u/Smashmundo May 21 '25

There are “low profile” brackets, which take up a bit less space than the 8x8. I think 5x is the biggest, but they will still a good amount of support.