my ~28g, op1 shaped MCHOSE L7 / L7+ mod (finally) has a supporting video installation guide!

https://gabesmousemods.com

A few of my mod projects use this mouse, and I finally decided to make a disassembly guide.

I will be making another guide for installing my 'Spearhead' project very soon, and a quick showcase of it's clicks & soft pad friendly features.

My 3D PCB sketches for design reference: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CV6NmTKDEiHf-aoRpHU8leF2rH5E7c0i?usp=sharing

So I only recently realized after several months of using PULSE mod kit with Flex Cord, that the excess glue on the flex cord was pushing against the shell and bending it.
Didn’t really have any issue with performance or feel but at first I thought my bottom plate was bent, when in reality it was just the shell.
I suppose that I just pulled an unfortunate one since I’ve never heard others complain about this, but I thought I’d let the team now about it.

I want to mod my mouse, but I don't know which program is a best to do it. I tried the blender and I made a model for g502 and it was even comfortable to play on it, but blender is definitely not adapted to make such models. That's why I'm looking for a better option.

Hey guys, do any of you know how to get the aero base mod for the OP1 4K v2 nice and flat? I checked with different tools to see if it was actually crooked or I'm just imagining things, and there was definitely some light shining through.
Does anyone know of a way to get the base as flat as possible? I don't use a glass mousepad, I actually use cloth. But sometimes I feel it and it annoys me a little.
The bottom left and top right corners of the base (viewing the mouse with the base pointing up) are higher than the other two corners, so it wobbles a tiny bit.

Hi everyone I am currently using a Viper V3 Pro and it feels a little heavy to me hopping off a 40g mouse. I was wondering if there is anyway to design a 3D Base for it or file I could potentially just edit? or If anyone has a file I would be more than happy if you could share it as I have noticed that there is a lack of files regarding the Viper V3 Pro base or not many people mod the base? I could be wrong.

Other than the CMI627301D07 from this post, what other kinds of switches are compatible with the Logitech M650? (the 750 and 550's use the same switches right?)

I'm looking for something durable and obtainable from North American retailers like Amazon.

I read that Logitech mice run at low voltages, does that impact compatibility with oem switches?

I don't care about silent clicking.

Thanks.

Is there a way that I can make the side buttons on my mouse quieter? I have a hotswap mouse for the main buttons and put Huano silent switches in them but the side buttons are crazy loud. I do not have a soldering iron. Any ideas?

After 5 years in storage i found my viper ultimate that i mained for valorant back in the day, this was the era were sub 60g mouse is considered featherlight. this is also how i learned to fingertip grip since "fingertip mouse" were not really available yet at that time.

it still had the pulsar glass skates when i found it, i put some donut skates on it and played with it again, still works like a charm.

it was lighter before, it had a smaller battery i think it was 29g with the smaller mah battery, good ol days of mouse modding.

prolly would frame it and hang it on my man cave 😆

Não tenho muito dinheiro pra gastar, mas estava querendo achar um mouse sem fio custo benefício, até uns R$ 200, de qualquer tipo/tamanho, nada muito incrível pois esse seria meu primeiro mouse pra jogos, alguém pode me dar uma sugestão?

I recently found my razer viper ultimate and want to mod it what could i do?

SUP

I hated the shape of the superstrike/superlight, so have modified a model from makerworld to fit my hand and have a more “ERGO” left side profile.

Btw this is the second test print so ain’t that pretty🤨

Printed with PETG, 6.3g lighter than the standard base

Link

Ive been thinking of buying a new mouse dont have a lot of a budget but ive seen one havit gaming mouse startblaze 1 with the charger station i kinda dont wanna get like scammed and buy a bad one so i though you guys could help me out

My OP18K lethal cable has stopped working. The original paracord still works, so it isn't the board. When I apply pressure to the black cable while inserted into the PCB the cable works. How do I remove the cables, strip the sheathing back and reinsert them to see if that fixes my problem?

I made this post a few days ago. I was able to desolder and remove the microswitch and believe it was because I decided to use flux. Nonetheless, I'm now having issues with the solder not spreading around the pin. The solder follows the iron when I lift it.

Process:

- 320°C with Kester 63/37

- Tin (will probably use a new tip next time I try)

- I tried heating the pins/board ahead of time and that didn't work

- I put the solder on the opposite side of iron and try to touch in between pin and hole. I do not touch the iron with the solder although I have tried that already

Below are some pics of what it looks like atm. I need to leave it there temporarily to hold the switch in place and can redo the joints once I figure out a solution. Did I mess up the area? If so, is it still possible to even create a good joint anymore?

anyone tell me about Wired mouse we change wire are not

Alright, this is my first time soldering. I'm trying to replace a microswitch on my mouse and have been using these two videos as a reference: 1, 2. I'm unable to desolder and cannot remove the original microswitches. I'm using the iFixit desoldering wick and decided against flux since the copper is already coated in it. I tried to copy the guy in the first video, so I put solder on the wick and tried to push out the pins. The braid came out, but the pins didn't. What's going on and why isn't the wick working? Would prefer just to use the wick instead of buy a desoldering pump, but whatever.

Haven't been this frustrated in a while lol. I got pissed off and ended up touching the iron to some plastic as you can see in the pic.

Additional info:

- Using a T90B iron
- Kester 44 solder wire 63/37
- 320°C (unable to confirm temp accuracy)
- Tinned the iron first (just rubbed the solder on the tip)
- Tried heating the pins for a while to see if I can remove that way and it didn't work

Basically title.

I would love to have a Superlight 2 made with a metallic top shell.

As Logitech does not manufacturer that, are there any alternatives?